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Parasitic drain?

This charger does have an on-off floating feature with solid state protection so using 2 amp setting wouldn't that be ok? The company maintains its ok use for motorcycle batteries.
Two amps for an AGM battery the size of the one in the Spyder is marginal, but probably acceptable. Be aware that it could very well shorten the battery life, though. Fortunately, it is unlikely to blow it up. A smaller battery would carry that risk. Two amps can easily damage a small battery, ballooning or breaking the case, and blowing the lead out of the plates. The high amperage can also cause premature sulfation.

There are additional differences between something like a Battery Tender and your charger. The chargers intended for motorcycle use do more than just charge at a high rate, then "float" with a low rate charge. They use carefully programmed charging algorithms to charge the battery in a way that extends its life, reduces sulfation, and provides the maximum charge for the longest period of time, without damaging the battery in the process or overcharging. The Battery Tender, for instance, uses four modes for charging...bulk charge mode, absorption charge mode, equalization charge mode, and float charge mode. Other brands use similar, multi-step charging, sometimes with five or six possible modes. They is more complex than they look, and worth the extra money. Getting one extra year out of a good-sized battery can pay for one.
 
I find if I leave my :spyder2: running at 2500 RPM,s all the time, the battery never goes dead. All I have to do is keep it gased up. ;)
 
battery discharge

don't know what is the battery draw with ignition off, but i just had the spyder head off doing things and noticed the lowest connector mounted on chassy just ahead of handle bars looked green at joint, took it apart and pins were corroded, no damage. was able to clean and coat with dielectric grease. inspected all connectors in area. ok. the lowest two connectors are not of the water tight kind, should be... suspect that corrosion build up could bridge circuits and cause draw. to be safe, i fitted a water shedder to keep area dry.
 
Two amps for an AGM battery the size of the one in the Spyder is marginal, but probably acceptable. Be aware that it could very well shorten the battery life, though. Fortunately, it is unlikely to blow it up. A smaller battery would carry that risk. Two amps can easily damage a small battery, ballooning or breaking the case, and blowing the lead out of the plates. The high amperage can also cause premature sulfation.

There are additional differences between something like a Battery Tender and your charger. The chargers intended for motorcycle use do more than just charge at a high rate, then "float" with a low rate charge. They use carefully programmed charging algorithms to charge the battery in a way that extends its life, reduces sulfation, and provides the maximum charge for the longest period of time, without damaging the battery in the process or overcharging. The Battery Tender, for instance, uses four modes for charging...bulk charge mode, absorption charge mode, equalization charge mode, and float charge mode. Other brands use similar, multi-step charging, sometimes with five or six possible modes. They is more complex than they look, and worth the extra money. Getting one extra year out of a good-sized battery can pay for one.

Replaced my original 2010 RT battery with an Odyssey PC680 AGM type battery last year and use the Odyssey Ultmizer Charger to maintain it. The charger is made/recommended for this battery and has a bulk charge rate of 6 amp.
 
Replaced my original 2010 RT battery with an Odyssey PC680 AGM type battery last year and use the Odyssey Ultmizer Charger to maintain it. The charger is made/recommended for this battery and has a bulk charge rate of 6 amp.
The Odyssey charger is specially made for the Odyssey battery, and has a very sophisticated charging algorithm. I'll guarantee that it will damage a conventional battery, and destroy a Lithium-Iron battery. It should only be used with the Odyssey battery unless the bateery manufacturer specifically recommends it.
 
:agree: to a point.

The algorithm or charge profile does differ by battery type, however the Spyder Mag/Voltage regulator (or any other vehicle) doesn't know what kind of battery is connected. The charging circuit is probably capable of 20 A so it isn't the rated amperage of the charger that kills a battery.


The current crammed into a battery by any charger or charging circuit is a function of the internal resistance of the battery not the maximum amperage rate of the charger.
I have always wondered about why that is, but the fact is still that large chargers kill motorcycle batteries while the motorcycle charging systems do not. :dontknow: My suspicion is that the with the battery in a circuit, feeding a load at the same time as it is charging, that there is a "wide spot" in the line that prevents the damage to the lead in the plates or mat, and somehow prevents the battery case from swelling. How a BMW can charge at a high rate when running, but the wrong charger can balloon and break the battery case, is beyond me, but it happens. Maybe the electrons are like babies...they are happier when they are being taken for a ride. ;)
 
The swelling of the case is caused by the rapid heating of the plates that doesn't occur when the battery is in circuit with a load as well as a charge.
The magneto or the alternator sees not only the internal R of the battery but the entire electrical system in parallel with it.
So yes, they are like babies.
Thanks, Roger. That solves that mystery.
 
It's not looking for another key, it's looking for another key to finish programing.

Just reading through the thread and I have always used a battery tender and its on now in fact so no
battery problems too report. I never leave the key in either but this key thing is blowing my mind. I
only have 1 key and it's now looking for another one to finish its programing ? What does that mean ?
My 1 key has always worked fine by itself. Guess I'm stuck in the 20th century.
 
BATTERY'S

Thanks Scotty, thanks Roger, .it's great that we can have our own little GENIOUS BAKE-OFF COMPETION and you fellows certainly qualify for the category...:firstplace:..:thumbup:. Mike
 
Just reading through the thread and I have always used a battery tender and its on now in fact so no
battery problems too report. I never leave the key in either but this key thing is blowing my mind. I
only have 1 key and it's now looking for another one to finish its programing ? What does that mean ?
My 1 key has always worked fine by itself. Guess I'm stuck in the 20th century.
The Spyder will not search for a second key unless the key coding program was started (in case of a lost key) and never finished. This would be pretty poor work on the part of your tech. Spyders are delivered with two keys and two key sheaths. If you bought new, your dealer owes you a key.
 
Seems like the Spyder battery both RS and RT have or can have a parasitic drain on the battery. I know there are several ways to test for this and I plan on doing my own testing but I wanted to see if anyone here has done this and located the cause if any. It's seems about half the folks here can't leave a Spyder without being on a charger for more than two weeks. There has to be something pulling down that battery. :dontknow:

Ryding to work today, and it came to me what it is. It has to be the clock that pulls so much of a charge, and that explains why my clock always runs so fast.
 
BATTERY DRAIN ???

If it's the clock that's causing the major Battery drain on the RT'S, if it were mine I would cut the wire to it......the clock ,not the Battery...:thumbup:....:agree:.....:lecturef_smilie:...:roflblack:
 
Hate to burst your bubble, but the Spyder clock is in the cluster...and cutting that wire is like cutting your spinal cord. nojoke
 
OH YA THERE IS A DRAIN!

REPLACED THE BATTERY THIS WEEK END, TOOK THE OLD ONE AND CHARGED IT AND PUT IT ON THE BENCH TESTED IT EVERY DAY SINCE STILL SAYS 12.7 VOLTS, NOW TO THE SPYDER,

CHARGED THE NEW BATTERY TO FULL, INSTALLED AND RODE 100 MILES SUNDAY CHECKED MONDAY STARTED UP, TUES STARTED UP THEN TONIGHT WENT TO START UP, BOOTS UP THEN

CLICK :mad::mad: LOOKS LIKE I'M GOING HUNTING FOR THE POWER THIEF. A FEW DAYS AND CRAPPED OUT AGAIN:yikes: GUESS I'LL KNOW MORE ABOUT THE SPYDER THAN THE TECS WHEN I'M

DONE.:thumbup:
 
REPLACED THE BATTERY THIS WEEK END, TOOK THE OLD ONE AND CHARGED IT AND PUT IT ON THE BENCH TESTED IT EVERY DAY SINCE STILL SAYS 12.7 VOLTS, NOW TO THE SPYDER,

CHARGED THE NEW BATTERY TO FULL, INSTALLED AND RODE 100 MILES SUNDAY CHECKED MONDAY STARTED UP, TUES STARTED UP THEN TONIGHT WENT TO START UP, BOOTS UP THEN

CLICK :mad::mad: LOOKS LIKE I'M GOING HUNTING FOR THE POWER THIEF. A FEW DAYS AND CRAPPED OUT AGAIN:yikes: GUESS I'LL KNOW MORE ABOUT THE SPYDER THAN THE TECS WHEN I'M

DONE.:thumbup:
Make sure you chassis grounds are tight, especially the rear ground, located at the negastive jumper terminal under the seat.
 
Make sure you chassis grounds are tight, especially the rear ground, located at the negastive jumper terminal under the seat.

:agree: First place i would look, Just remember that terminal isn't screwed in, It's a bolt and nut once loosen it's a headache to re tighten.
 
BATTERY COMPLETELY DISCHARED WITH IN 1-2 WEEKS WHEN VHICLE IS NOT USED.

1. D.E.S.S module is still in programing mode. The 2nd key must be programmed with in 2 minutes when programming keys.

This information is from the 2008 - 2011 Can-am Spider GS/RS series service manual.



Mike
 
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