You'll always have a draw; The clock will be one for sure.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Parasitic drain?
- Thread starter Lamonster
- Start date
You'll always have a draw; The clock will be one for sure.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
It's worth looking at but either way it's a key issue not a IPS issue if there is a draw. Not everyone who owns a IPS keeps it in the Spyder at all times.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I wouldn't think it would be an issue with variations between keys, just having a key in proximity to the security module constantly, or not. Ron's experience, and that on your previous RT, indicate that is not likely. BTW, I was not implying anything bad about the IPS, just that when using one the key would be left in the ignition at all times.
One troubleshooting technique you may wish to try is the old trick of disconnecting the battery for a day or two, then checking the charge. If it stays up disconnected, parasitic draw is the likely culprit. if it loses it's charge disconnected, it is a battery problem. A good lead-acid (including AGM) battery that is fully charged, then disconnected, should hold it's charge for at least a couple of weeks to a month.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Just found out that there is zero draw from the key being in unless it's turned on. Now if for some odd reason you have only one key programed it will look for a second key to link up to and that will cause a draw. I have a couple of things I can check now but my guess is they will not be a cause of a good battery going dead in a week.
Dudley
New member
No draw from our RT. I also leave the key in all the time (the RT is locked in it's Spyder Cave).
wyliec
New member
Can someone explain this to me? As an example, if I carry only one key with me and insert it in the ignition, why would the spyder (electronics) look for another key? I know it's probably a simple answer; I'm just not seeing it.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
It's not looking for another key, it's looking for another key to finish programing.
pro10is
New member
Judging from the Spyder's electronics the normal, primary parasitic drains will be the clock, any CMOS memory in the system (for radio presets, user settings, BUDS log data, etc.), and the DSS. The RT will probably have more parasitic drain than the GS/RS due to its extra electronics. Additional parasitic drains may come from added electronics such as a GPS, cell phone charger, blue tooth device, etc.
This is all normal and parasitic drains are a necessary evil on vehicles with sophisticated electronics. Obviously you're looking for an excessive drain if your battery can't start your RT after about two weeks of non-use.
To figure out what level of parasitic drain is acceptable for the Spyder we need to do some math. Off the top of my head I think the Spyder's OEM battery is rated at 21 AH (Ampere hours). Given that a typical battery will begin to fail to engage a motorcycle sized starter when about 50% discharged at ambient temperature of about 70 degrees F we can look at a few scenarios:
A drain of 7 to 15 mA would be typical and acceptable for the kind of electronics in the RT. At 15 mA the battery should last about 30 days before having trouble starting the engine. Using the formula:
Charge Remaining% = (Amperage Drain * Days * 24 ) / Ampere Hours or
51.43% = (0.015 Amps * 30 Days * 24) / 21 Ampere Hours, we can see the OEM Spyder battery would have only about a 50% charge left after a 30 day 15 mA parasitic drain.
For the battery to be about 50% discharged in only about two weeks, the parasitic drain would be about 32 mA:
51.20% = (0.032 Amps * 14 Days * 24) / 21 Ampere Hours
Now before you math majors, electro-chemical engineers, or Sheldon Coopers jump all over my calculations I realize that the battery discharge may not be linear and that a true formula is more complex but this should be roughly in the ballpark for the purposes here.
A 32 mA parasitic drain is really not all that much. On some vehicles the parasitic drain can typically reach 35-40 mA or more. The problem is that a motorcycle battery is physically small and doesn't have a lot of capacity to handle a consistent drain. Bottom line may be that an automatic battery tender should be required equipment on an RT and recommended equipment on a GS/RS if you don't use it for more than a few weeks or so, less if the temperature is cold or your battery is sulfated.
Measure your parasitic drain at the battery using a quality, directly connected test meter with a milliampere range (be careful to measure only the drain and not any other load that might blow the meter's milliampere range fuse). If the parasitic drain less than 20 mA it's probably normal. If it's between 20-35 mA you may either have too much or too demanding electronics for the battery. If it's over 35 mA you may have an electrical fault.
This is all normal and parasitic drains are a necessary evil on vehicles with sophisticated electronics. Obviously you're looking for an excessive drain if your battery can't start your RT after about two weeks of non-use.
To figure out what level of parasitic drain is acceptable for the Spyder we need to do some math. Off the top of my head I think the Spyder's OEM battery is rated at 21 AH (Ampere hours). Given that a typical battery will begin to fail to engage a motorcycle sized starter when about 50% discharged at ambient temperature of about 70 degrees F we can look at a few scenarios:
A drain of 7 to 15 mA would be typical and acceptable for the kind of electronics in the RT. At 15 mA the battery should last about 30 days before having trouble starting the engine. Using the formula:
Charge Remaining% = (Amperage Drain * Days * 24 ) / Ampere Hours or
51.43% = (0.015 Amps * 30 Days * 24) / 21 Ampere Hours, we can see the OEM Spyder battery would have only about a 50% charge left after a 30 day 15 mA parasitic drain.
For the battery to be about 50% discharged in only about two weeks, the parasitic drain would be about 32 mA:
51.20% = (0.032 Amps * 14 Days * 24) / 21 Ampere Hours
Now before you math majors, electro-chemical engineers, or Sheldon Coopers jump all over my calculations I realize that the battery discharge may not be linear and that a true formula is more complex but this should be roughly in the ballpark for the purposes here.
A 32 mA parasitic drain is really not all that much. On some vehicles the parasitic drain can typically reach 35-40 mA or more. The problem is that a motorcycle battery is physically small and doesn't have a lot of capacity to handle a consistent drain. Bottom line may be that an automatic battery tender should be required equipment on an RT and recommended equipment on a GS/RS if you don't use it for more than a few weeks or so, less if the temperature is cold or your battery is sulfated.
Measure your parasitic drain at the battery using a quality, directly connected test meter with a milliampere range (be careful to measure only the drain and not any other load that might blow the meter's milliampere range fuse). If the parasitic drain less than 20 mA it's probably normal. If it's between 20-35 mA you may either have too much or too demanding electronics for the battery. If it's over 35 mA you may have an electrical fault.
AMTJIM
New member
Yes, as mentioned a few times on this thread and recommended by mechs...battery tender! The Buell is hooked up all week and swaps with the Spyder on weekends. If it seems inconvenient to any reading this, most if not all now come with a quick disconnect that bolts to the battery.
I love Gel Cells, but they aren't 100% and lots of stories of experiences with these out there, they are getting some history...they are quirky animals.
My Spyder key is never removed, except for bike wash day, it has never gone dead and sat for 1 month while being tinkered with before I had a tender. Started right up!
I love Gel Cells, but they aren't 100% and lots of stories of experiences with these out there, they are getting some history...they are quirky animals.
My Spyder key is never removed, except for bike wash day, it has never gone dead and sat for 1 month while being tinkered with before I had a tender. Started right up!
opcorn:
Arthur---Mexico
New member
There sure is something wrong and it's that you guys without a stand by battery charger don't go to WalMart and buy one of those $22.00 automatic battery float chargers. They are very good and will keep your battery charged when the Spyder is not in use. They come with a short 2 conductor cable and a polarized connector that matches the cable from the charger that you can fasten to the battery leaving the cable with its connector to come out from under the seat. I've been using this system on 5 vehicles I have and there are only two drivers in my household. My two m/cs are hardly ever used as is one of my cars. Keep in mind that there is always a very small drain on the battery when a vehicle is not driven. There are computers and clocks that are connected. Also there is a system in cars on READY waiting for you to press the remote control to unlock the doors of your car. So don't sweat it. Go out and spend $22.00 to have peace of mind and a Spyder raring to go even after 4 months of storage. There's a saying: "Look and thou shall find". Better you buy the automatic $22.00 float stand by charger rather than look for something you can't fix or that causes a designed in draw on your battery.
Arthur---Mexico City
Arthur---Mexico City
BajaRon
Well-known member
It better be a tender that will handle an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery. If it doesn't say so and have a setting for AGM then you are going to kill your battery. AGM is not Gel so don't use the Gel setting thinking you're ok.
It won't kill it right away but you'll cut your AGM battery life by about 2/3's using a normal, wet cell battery charger or tender. Not sure a $22.00 Wal-Mart tender/charger is going to have the necessary circuitry.
Campverdefela
New member
What I use on my car, looks like it will work, $22---Walmart.The Schumacher SC-600A SpeedCharge is a fully automatic battery charger that uses advanced technology to charge up to twice as fast as conventional chargers. It offers 6-, 4-, and 2-amp charging modes to efficiently charge and maintain connected batteries. The 50-amp clamps are compatible with both top and side-mounted battery posts. Its easy-to-read LED indicators show battery charge status at a glance.
Multi-stage, automatic charging for 6V and 12V batteries
[h=5]Multiple Charging Modes[/h]Choose from 2-amp, 4-amp, and 6-amp charging modes to quickly charge all types and sizes of batteries. In 6-amp Fast Charge mode, the charger monitors battery condition and adjusts charge rate downward to prevent battery damage for car, small truck, motorcycle, and lawn tractor lead-acid and AGM battery types. 4-amp Medium Charge is a self-adjusting charge rate that's ideal for everyday charging needs and for keeping your battery in peak condition. 2-amp Slow Charge is a trickle setting for charging and maintaining small batteries, such as those for motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles and lawn tractors.
[h=5]Electronic Push Button Controls[/h]The SC-600A features easy-to-feel switches for selection of Charge Rate or Battery Type. Choose between 6- or 12-volt batteries, as well as selecting Fast, Medium, or Slow Charge.
[h=5]Sturdy, Built-In Handle[/h]The built-in handle serves as convenient cord wrap for the 50-amp clamps and power cord, in addition to providing easy portability.
[h=5]Microprocessor Controlled[/h]Microprocessor Controlled Technology with multi-stage charging lets the Schumacher SC-600A deliver added precision, safety, and battery life. This technology lets you charge your motorcycle, car, or utility vehicle batteries up to 2x faster than using conventional chargers.
[h=5]Fully Automatic Operation[/h]The SC-600A automatically switches from Continuous Charge to Float-Mode Monitoring, which allows the charger to maintain the battery when fully charged. The SC-600A resumes continuous charging when the battery becomes discharged.
[h=4]Technical Specifications[/h]
[h=5]Multiple Charging Modes[/h]Choose from 2-amp, 4-amp, and 6-amp charging modes to quickly charge all types and sizes of batteries. In 6-amp Fast Charge mode, the charger monitors battery condition and adjusts charge rate downward to prevent battery damage for car, small truck, motorcycle, and lawn tractor lead-acid and AGM battery types. 4-amp Medium Charge is a self-adjusting charge rate that's ideal for everyday charging needs and for keeping your battery in peak condition. 2-amp Slow Charge is a trickle setting for charging and maintaining small batteries, such as those for motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles and lawn tractors.
[h=5]Electronic Push Button Controls[/h]The SC-600A features easy-to-feel switches for selection of Charge Rate or Battery Type. Choose between 6- or 12-volt batteries, as well as selecting Fast, Medium, or Slow Charge.
[h=5]Sturdy, Built-In Handle[/h]The built-in handle serves as convenient cord wrap for the 50-amp clamps and power cord, in addition to providing easy portability.
[h=5]Microprocessor Controlled[/h]Microprocessor Controlled Technology with multi-stage charging lets the Schumacher SC-600A deliver added precision, safety, and battery life. This technology lets you charge your motorcycle, car, or utility vehicle batteries up to 2x faster than using conventional chargers.
[h=5]Fully Automatic Operation[/h]The SC-600A automatically switches from Continuous Charge to Float-Mode Monitoring, which allows the charger to maintain the battery when fully charged. The SC-600A resumes continuous charging when the battery becomes discharged.
[h=4]Technical Specifications[/h]
- Input Voltage: 120V AC
- Output Voltage: 6V/12VDC
- Output Power: 2A/4A/6A continuous
- Amperage Control: Push-button
- RoHS Compliant: Yes
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Caution! 4 to 12 amps is way to high a rate to be charging a motorcycle sized-battery, especially a sealed one. It will destroy the battery in short order. A small AGM battery can probably take 2 amps, but that is on the outer limits. It is risky, and may shorten battery life. I would not recommend the use of the large Schumacher charger on a Spyder.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
BATTERY STUFF
Just my .02 in addition to the di-electric grease I have also added a star washer to every battery related connection...both positive and negative and none of them have ever lossened in two years of checking since I started using them and no battery problems either....Mike...try it their cheap and thin....:thumbup:
Just my .02 in addition to the di-electric grease I have also added a star washer to every battery related connection...both positive and negative and none of them have ever lossened in two years of checking since I started using them and no battery problems either....Mike...try it their cheap and thin....:thumbup:
Campverdefela
New member
This charger does have an on-off floating feature with solid state protection so using 2 amp setting wouldn't that be ok? The company maintains its ok use for motorcycle batteries.
Last edited:
Similar threads
