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Operating temp
- Thread starter Igofshn
- Start date
Chupaca
New member
Well....
Those analog guages were not the best. As long as your fan comes on and that is as high as it goes your fine. Many just remove the temp and gas guages so that the digital ones will appear on the screen. I usually run about 5 bars in traffic and heat. Those with RT's will let you know....:thumbup:
Those analog guages were not the best. As long as your fan comes on and that is as high as it goes your fine. Many just remove the temp and gas guages so that the digital ones will appear on the screen. I usually run about 5 bars in traffic and heat. Those with RT's will let you know....:thumbup:
Is that on the analogue temp gauge out to the right of the main dash panel on the RT Ltd's & a few other versions; or on the digital bar type display incorporated in the main digital dash display on the 'base model' RT's??
The analogue gauges are notoriously dodgy, but I have little experience with how the digital temp display responds so unless otherwise stated, bear in mind that my comments refer to the analogue dial type temp gauge. While you ryde, your actual engine operating temperature WILL vary up & down somewhat as engine revs & loads rise & fall & the cooling system thermostat opens & shuts in response to those changing loads & actual temperatures. That being the case, an analogue temp gauge that rapidly rises to a set position on the dial & then never moves from that position despite changes in road speed, engine revs, & loads has probably been 'damped' (a resistor added to the circuit will readily do this) & is arguably worse than useless in that it is unlikely to respond to a dangerous temp increase until it's too late to save the engine from overheating damage!! But many vehicle manufacturers do this to their temp gauges to avoid the 'ignorant masses' questioning temperature gauge indications rising & falling in response to loads like they actually do & should show!!
If the indicated temperature on your Spyders analogue temp gauge is anywhere in the lower 3 orange bars on the dial & not up in the red bar labelled H then it's probably OK, but if it rapidly shoots up towards the H or sits close to it all the time then it's time to start looking to adjust your ryding style &/or engine loads to stop overheating things, & it's also probably a good time to inspect your cooling system carefully for leaks, failures, or other issues that could be raising your cooling system temps. However, if the analogue temp gauge ever goes into the red, it's time to pull over & shut down the engine &/or take whatever steps you can to safely reduce coolant system temps before the engine is damaged, & even then you should check everything carefully for damage & or the reasons for overheating once it's all cool enough to touch!!
But usually, if the analogue temp gauge is moving up & down within the area encompassed by the lower 3 orange bars then your operating temp is fine & the gauge is doing what it should how it should. If it never moves off the lower stop & sits down below the C mark, or if it fairly quickly goes up to about mid way & then never moves again despite variations in road speeds, revs, & engine loads, etc, then it's probably busted or at least damped so much as to be useless as a warning device for overheating episodes - you won't know things have gotten too hot until it's too late & your engine is cooked!!
Here's hoping that has helped a little, or that someone who has more experience with the digital gauge/display will chime in if that's the info you are after! :thumbup:
The analogue gauges are notoriously dodgy, but I have little experience with how the digital temp display responds so unless otherwise stated, bear in mind that my comments refer to the analogue dial type temp gauge. While you ryde, your actual engine operating temperature WILL vary up & down somewhat as engine revs & loads rise & fall & the cooling system thermostat opens & shuts in response to those changing loads & actual temperatures. That being the case, an analogue temp gauge that rapidly rises to a set position on the dial & then never moves from that position despite changes in road speed, engine revs, & loads has probably been 'damped' (a resistor added to the circuit will readily do this) & is arguably worse than useless in that it is unlikely to respond to a dangerous temp increase until it's too late to save the engine from overheating damage!! But many vehicle manufacturers do this to their temp gauges to avoid the 'ignorant masses' questioning temperature gauge indications rising & falling in response to loads like they actually do & should show!!
If the indicated temperature on your Spyders analogue temp gauge is anywhere in the lower 3 orange bars on the dial & not up in the red bar labelled H then it's probably OK, but if it rapidly shoots up towards the H or sits close to it all the time then it's time to start looking to adjust your ryding style &/or engine loads to stop overheating things, & it's also probably a good time to inspect your cooling system carefully for leaks, failures, or other issues that could be raising your cooling system temps. However, if the analogue temp gauge ever goes into the red, it's time to pull over & shut down the engine &/or take whatever steps you can to safely reduce coolant system temps before the engine is damaged, & even then you should check everything carefully for damage & or the reasons for overheating once it's all cool enough to touch!!
But usually, if the analogue temp gauge is moving up & down within the area encompassed by the lower 3 orange bars then your operating temp is fine & the gauge is doing what it should how it should. If it never moves off the lower stop & sits down below the C mark, or if it fairly quickly goes up to about mid way & then never moves again despite variations in road speeds, revs, & engine loads, etc, then it's probably busted or at least damped so much as to be useless as a warning device for overheating episodes - you won't know things have gotten too hot until it's too late & your engine is cooked!!
Here's hoping that has helped a little, or that someone who has more experience with the digital gauge/display will chime in if that's the info you are after! :thumbup:
Last edited:
Sounds like it's OK then! :thumbup:
That said, you do realise that the coolant/anti-corrosion fluid these things run does have a life beyond which it doesn't work so well?? The life of & coolant changing schedule is detailed in the Handbook or workshop manual, & if you haven't drained & replaced the coolant in a 2012 yet &/or don't know if anyone else has, then there's a good chance the coolant is well past it's 'best before' date - could be worth checking on that!
That said, you do realise that the coolant/anti-corrosion fluid these things run does have a life beyond which it doesn't work so well?? The life of & coolant changing schedule is detailed in the Handbook or workshop manual, & if you haven't drained & replaced the coolant in a 2012 yet &/or don't know if anyone else has, then there's a good chance the coolant is well past it's 'best before' date - could be worth checking on that!
Bob Denman
New member
Perfectly normal... :thumbup:
Out on the open road: it consistently runs cooler; right?
It fluctuates in Town, because of the slower airflow through the radiator.
Out on the open road: it consistently runs cooler; right?
It fluctuates in Town, because of the slower airflow through the radiator.
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