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OK to mix?

Beachbum

New member
I have an oil change coming up and would like to switch to Amsoil synthetic. I have 2.5qts of BRP XPS oil and would like to use that up but mix it with 2.5qts of Amsoil. I cant see that this would cause a problem but thought it would be better to ask you folks first. I only plan on keeping this oil mix in the engine for 3000 miles or 'till spring (depending on what comes first). Thanks for any input on the topic.
 
Depends....

I wouldn't regardless but if the XPS is full synthectic you may be fine if it is the blended I would not mix them. jmo go get more XPS and go one more change or sell or give them away...:thumbup:
 
I wouldn't regardless but if the XPS is full synthectic you may be fine if it is the blended I would not mix them. jmo go get more XPS and go one more change or sell or give them away...:thumbup:

I have to agree with Chupaca. :thumbup:
 
You can mix full and blended oils together. It's what the makers of oil do. BUTT, are they the same weight? :dontknow: Our Spyders call for 5-40wt. oil. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
Sorry to go against the grain here. But it won't hurt a thing. The BRP oil will degrade the Amsoil somewhat (or to look at it another way, the Amsoil will upgrade the BRP product). But you'll get plenty of lubrication and your engine will be fine. I'd just change it a bit sooner than I would with all Amsoil.
 
According to the engine/trans/clutch lead engineer we shouldn't use anything other than XPS! Nothing else is formulated to work properly or last in their engine/trans/clutch design.... :shocked: :dontknow:

 
ONLY XPS?

The "engineers, technicians", etc. that say just to use XPS are just giving you the standard company line. They want you to buy their oil. Your manual says you can use any brand as long as it meets the specs. I have been using Amsoil full synthetic from day one and I have had no engine problems with my previous Spyder and with my current Spyder. There is nothing wrong with the BRP oil, just don't believe all the hype. Using another oil won't void your warranty either as long as it meets the specs outlined in your manual.
 
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According to the engine/trans/clutch lead engineer we shouldn't use anything other than XPS! Nothing else is formulated to work properly or last in their engine/trans/clutch design.... :shocked: :dontknow:


In a word, "Marketing". Have your BRP oil tested and then compare it to a true, fully synthetic oil like Amsoil. The difference may will surprise you.

 
As long as it tis Can Am warranty, I use Can Am oil. I ryde hard and long. If my Rotax goes away in a big way, I want Can Am oil in it! 18 months 26,000 miles and no problems.
:riding:
 
In a word, "Marketing". Have your BRP oil tested and then compare it to a true, fully synthetic oil like Amsoil. The difference may will surprise you.

That may be true, but who is gonna win the fight in a warranty situation? You or BRP? I have seen warranties denied after oil was tested by an OEM and deemed not compliant with their published standards.... Just sayin'.....

I'm not sayin' I believe what BRP is preaching is gospel. But hey, if it's under warranty, why mess with fate.
 
I agree with Bajaron on this, it won't hurt a thing. I just started using Amsoil and I'm not scared. I had previously tested the XPS summer blend in my 2012 Rt, it was done at 4,600. Will be testing the Amsoil at next change.
 
That may be true, but who is gonna win the fight in a warranty situation? You or BRP? I have seen warranties denied after oil was tested by an OEM and deemed not compliant with their published standards.... Just sayin'.....

I'm not sayin' I believe what BRP is preaching is gospel. But hey, if it's under warranty, why mess with fate.

In all the years I've been involved with motorcycles I've never heard of a warranty claim being denied for oil. I'm sure it happens as some people will put just about anything in the hole. But if we are talking about a reasonably knowledgeable owner then it just is not a problem.

Of course if you use the wrong oil then you can't be surprised if you get denied. But it's not that difficult to put not only the right oil. But better oil in your Spyder. It is against the law for BRP or anyone else to deny a claim based on oil if the oil meets the manufacturer's requirements.

The entire thing is a Red Herring that dealers and manufacturers have exploited since the internal combustion engine vehicle was invented.
 
What about putting in the wrong weight oil? XPS is 5-40, AMSOIL is 10-40. That can make you not in compliance. :dontknow: Tom :spyder:
 
In all the years I've been involved with motorcycles I've never heard of a warranty claim being denied for oil. I'm sure it happens as some people will put just about anything in the hole. But if we are talking about a reasonably knowledgeable owner then it just is not a problem.

Of course if you use the wrong oil then you can't be surprised if you get denied. But it's not that difficult to put not only the right oil. But better oil in your Spyder. It is against the law for BRP or anyone else to deny a claim based on oil if the oil meets the manufacturer's requirements.

The entire thing is a Red Herring that dealers and manufacturers have exploited since the internal combustion engine vehicle was invented.


I agree completely. Just had to say what I have actually seen happen when I was in the industry....
 
What about putting in the wrong weight oil? XPS is 5-40, AMSOIL is 10-40. That can make you not in compliance. :dontknow: Tom :spyder:

It's a matter of the tail wagging the dog. The original 'Specified' viscosity for the Spyder was 10w-40. But BRP changed suppliers and now it's 5w-40. BRP is using the same oil for everything from the Spyder to their snowmobiles. The low number is only for cold start viscosity. A snowmobile may be left outside in very low sub-zero temps all night long. So it needs a 5w or 0w weight oil. But a Spyder that probably never sees a cold start below freezing is much better off with a 10w or even 15w oil. Amsoil 10w-40 is good down to at least -10f for cold starts.

The greater the spread between the low and high viscosity number, the less stable and more an oil is prone to shear and loss of viscosity. The greater the number spread the more additives have to be used. Additives do not lubricate. They simply modify the characteristics of the oil. The narrower the number spread, the less modifiers are needed and the better an oil holds up.

To deny a warranty claim, BRP has to show that (In this case) the oil caused the damage. There is no way they can do this with Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil as it exceeds every parameter required by BRP.
 
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This has been a very educational thread and I'm glad I asked the question. I can see both sides of the argument. Stay with BRP oil or change to a synthetic. I have read so much about oil choices on this site that it made me dizzy and confused. The folks that have sent used oil out for independent lab testing have proven that synthetics hold up better and I only want whats best for my engine. I have read great reviews on Mobil and Amsoil but my dealer sells Amsoil so that is why I would chose it over Mobil. When it comes to viscosity it seems that I would be better off with a 10w-40 rather than a 5w-40. It hardly ever gets below 30f here in South Carolina and I am usually driving around in 90+ temps and stuck in beach traffic during the summer. I also tend to run higher RPMs (shift points)than most "normal" drivers.These are the reasons I am looking to switch to a good quality synthetic. Thank you all for sharing your thoughts on the thread and I hope to keep learning all I can from this site.
 
It's a matter of the tail wagging the dog. The original 'Specified' viscosity for the Spyder was 10w-40. But BRP changed suppliers and now it's 5w-40. BRP is using the same oil for everything from the Spyder to their snowmobiles. The low number is only for cold start viscosity. A snowmobile may be left outside in very low sub-zero temps all night long. So it needs a 5w or 0w weight oil. But a Spyder that probably never sees a cold start below freezing is much better off with a 10w or even 15w oil. Amsoil 10w-40 is good down to at least -10f for cold starts.

The greater the spread between the low and high viscosity number, the less stable and more an oil is prone to shear and loss of viscosity. The greater the number spread the more additives have to be used. Additives do not lubricate. They simply modify the characteristics of the oil. The narrower the number spread, the less modifiers are needed and the better an oil holds up.

To deny a warranty claim, BRP has to show that (In this case) the oil caused the damage. There is no way they can do this with Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil as it exceeds every parameter required by BRP.


Ron I agree with you 100%. Used to sell AMSOIL myself. Butt. It does give them an out if it came down to it. And my pockets aren't deep enough. :roflblack: Tom :spyder:
 
Ron I agree with you 100%. Used to sell AMSOIL myself. Butt. It does give them an out if it came down to it. And my pockets aren't deep enough. :roflblack: Tom :spyder:

Everyone needs to do what they feel most comfortable with. I never mean to bash the OEM oil. Obviously, it works.

I do know of at least 1 customer who had engine failure on a 998. He ran Amsoil 10w-40. The engine was replaced on warranty and the Amsoil aspect was not a problem in the event.
 
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