• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil: time or mileage?

What is your reasoning?

OK, I'm awake again. Didn't mean to ignore you last night but I wanted to put a bit of thought into this. So here goes....

When you first start your engine, you get more blowby around the piston rings, and the oil and rest of the internal bits are cool, so water vapors from the blowby (and fuel too) condense in the engine and contaminate the oil. Oil is, of course, blended to mitigate damage from this, but these ingredients are not without limit. Once the engine is hot there is not this tendency to condense water vapor out of the blowby; it all goes out the EGR and back through the intake to be burned in the combustion chamber.

The water in the oil reacts to form acids, which is why oils are blended with ingredients that make it basic in nature; this is why there is a TBN, or Total Base Number. To neutralize these acids that form. But again, once the oil and engine are at operating temperature, the water and fuel in the blowby don't condense into the engine case.

Then there's the estimate that ~90% of an engine's wear happens at cold startup. Few reasons for this, but the increase in water content in the oil is one of them. Another is due to wear caused by lack of oil film until some few revolutions have happened, which will generate particles of wear material due to mechanical wear. These particles will also cause more wear until they are caught in the oil filter, another reason for longer oil life with longer "miles per start".

As to keeping oil in an engine for a few years of low usage, some folks would say that's bad because an engine "breaths" and will collect water from the air. Sort of true, in the sense that an engine is like a slightly open bottle of oil as opposed to a tightly sealed bottle of oil. But it's not like there is a little fan that blows air around and a means of collecting water vapors into the oil. In this case, the engine is at ambient temperature, so not much tendency to condense water, especially on the internals. I'm speaking of a vehicle stored in a garage, by the way. Out of the sun, fairly stable temperature, that sort of thing. I suppose being in the sun would be OK.... Anyway, If the car is in a high humidity place that also has wide temperature swings this may be an issue. But for someone like me who keeps his motorcycles in an attached (but not climate controlled) garage, I'll leave oil in for 2-3 years and not worry. Brake fluid is not a good comparison here because it is hygroscopic; it will actually collect water from the vapors in the air. Motor oil is not like this (or at the very least, is orders of magnitude less likely to collect a given bit of water vapor). Slightly opened bottle of brake fluid you throw away tomorrow for this reason. Opened bottle of motor oil? No worries.
 
Which is why some of us have our oil tested. After 13 months and 9,666 miles my (Amsoil) oil showed 0% water and a 6 TBN. There was a little fuel at .5% but is attributed to driving around town. Just saying leaving low mileage oil in an engine is not a terrible thing over a long period.
 
Personally......IF your riding pattern is likely to change soon so that you will be riding a LOT more.......I think I would leave it until you reach the mileage recommendation.

But .......IF this is likely to be your "new" riding schedule for the forseeable future, then follow the time recommendation.
Under those circumstances, there is NO reason to spend the extra money for full synthetic oil though.
 
Sorry guys I know this thread is over 1 year old now but I was looking for advice about "extended" oil change intervals.

I have a 2012 RT (998cc) SE5 and I am going on 2 years now since the oil was changed by the dealership. They used the standard semi-synthetic oil recommended by BRP. I'm embarrassed to say I have only put about 300 miles on it in that time but when I take it out I usually go at least 20-25 miles and let the engine fully warm up.

When I last checked the oil level a couple of weeks ago the oil was full and still looked and felt "like new" - clear and clean and slick. I do not believe the oil sitting in the tank will go bad in that amount of time.

Remember, the 998 V-twin is a dry-sump engine so the oil does not sit in the crank case collecting moisture while it sits. Most of it gets pumped back into the closed oil tank where it stays until it is needed.

Any further comments on the subject are most welcome.
 
Sorry guys I know this thread is over 1 year old now but I was looking for advice about "extended" oil change intervals.

I have a 2012 RT (998cc) SE5 and I am going on 2 years now since the oil was changed by the dealership. They used the standard semi-synthetic oil recommended by BRP. I'm embarrassed to say I have only put about 300 miles on it in that time but when I take it out I usually go at least 20-25 miles and let the engine fully warm up.

When I last checked the oil level a couple of weeks ago the oil was full and still looked and felt "like new" - clear and clean and slick. I do not believe the oil sitting in the tank will go bad in that amount of time.

Remember, the 998 V-twin is a dry-sump engine so the oil does not sit in the crank case collecting moisture while it sits. Most of it gets pumped back into the closed oil tank where it stays until it is needed.

Any further comments on the subject are most welcome.

I would recommend changing at least once a year, regardless of miles. 998 engine or 1330 engine. The intervals for each engine 998/1330 are there for those who drive a lot of miles.
 
I change the oil in everything I own based on the mileage limit not the 1yr time limit. Never had an issue doing it this way.

Me too Rob...... and I change the battery every three years in my scoots and vehicles....can not afford to get stuck in Redford, TX and points west. I charge the new batteries 12+ hours before using them to make sure I start out with a full charge....
 
Back
Top