OIL PLUG

[neelbert]

OEM oil plug metal is to soft. Any body found a better replacement.

 

[Crisis]

http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/canamspyder.php

 

[Crisis]

Better price:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=can+am+spyder+drain+plugs&_sacat=0

 

[JJW SpyderRider]

Here are the two sizes needed:

Engine Drain plug 12mm x 1.5, Reservoir 14mm x 1.5

 

[NancysToy]

Three Spyders over a five year period for a total of around 35,000 miles and I have never damaged an oil plug. The secret is in using the proper tools, and using them carefully. Use a hex bit socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Remember that most Spyder oil plugs are hex, not torx. Push the socket firmly into the cleaned drain plug, and hold it there firmly with one hand while you work the ratchet with the other. Be sure and use a torque wrench to snug the plug back down, to avoid overtorqueing and difficulty removing it next time. Replace the copper crush washers periodically, they work harden with age. Even a hex plug can be damaged by poor or improper tools or the wrong technique.

 

[boborgera]

Three Spyders over a five year period for a total of around 35,000 miles and I have never damaged an oil plug. The secret is in using the proper tools, and using them carefully. Use a hex bit socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Remember that most Spyder oil plugs are hex, not torx. Push the socket firmly into the cleaned drain plug, and hold it there firmly with one hand

:agree: The right tool for the job!

 

[neelbert]

oil plug

:agree: The right tool for the job!

I've been a heavy equip mech for 30+ years I have and use the proper tools The first one striped on the 600 mile service second on 7300 mile service plugs are to soft or folks would not be looking for a replacement. Thanks for the help Neel 1 st service 590miles 2nd @3500.3rd @4400 when del. replaced clutch 4th@ 4500 miles when 2nd del. replaced clutch that first one assembled wrong .5th @7305:yes:

 

[MarkLawson]

Three Spyders over a five year period for a total of around 35,000 miles and I have never damaged an oil plug. The secret is in using the proper tools, and using them carefully. Use a hex bit socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Remember that most Spyder oil plugs are hex, not torx. Push the socket firmly into the cleaned drain plug, and hold it there firmly with one hand while you work the ratchet with the other. Be sure and use a torque wrench to snug the plug back down, to avoid overtorqueing and difficulty removing it next time. Replace the copper crush washers periodically, they work harden with age. Even a hex plug can be damaged by poor or improper tools or the wrong technique.

Scotty's exactly right, but I'm one of those that used the proper tool, but not the proper technique & screwed up the engine oil plug. Ended up buying replacements that have hex heads and let my dealer figure out how to remove the plug I screwed up and had them install the newer and improved plugs.

 

[Lamonster]

I have a little trick that works for me. When I'm sure the socket is set in as deep as it can go I use a long handle ratchet and I give it a jerk first instead of just applying even pressure. The quick snap seems to work good for breaking it loose.

 

[NancysToy]

I have a little trick that works for me. When I'm sure the socket is set in as deep as it can go I use a long handle ratchet and I give it a jerk first instead of just applying even pressure. The quick snap seems to work good for breaking it loose.

Good advice! I do something similar, I rap the ratchet handle with the palm of my hand to break the gasket loose. With a copper crush washer, and/or a steel fastener in an alloy case, it takes more torque to loosen the fastener than to install it. "Popping" it loose helps overcome that initial force