Oil level check

[ST114ME]

Just did my first oil change. Used my owners manual as as guide. Drained oil from tank and motor a and replaced both filters,o rings and crush washers. I put 3 quarts on full synthetic Rotella into the tank.Ran the motor for 2 minutes as directed. Then put another 1.4 quarts into the tank. ( Book says 1.3 but it says total 4.4) That math 3 plus 1.3 added in my mind to 4.3 and the book notes 4.4 as a total. Then I ran the motor. Let it settle down. So I pull the dipstick,wipe it off, screw it back in. Dipstick reads to the add mark ??? How much oil should I put in at an oil change. Or am I doing something wrong?

Bill Kane

 

[Barlock]

How much oil?

Bill, I personally have never changed oil in my Spyder, but from reading this forum I learned that checking the oil level needs to happen when the motor is hot (not just warm, but really hot) like right after a long ride, and that could be a reason why there is a difference. I'd say add a little more, then run it until it's HOT and check the level again, and if it still shows low, add some more and repeat the process until it shows Full on a dipstick.

 

[Jeriatric]

Just did my first oil change. Used my owners manual as as guide. Drained oil from tank and motor a and replaced both filters,o rings and crush washers. I put 3 quarts on full synthetic Rotella into the tank.Ran the motor for 2 minutes as directed. Then put another 1.4 quarts into the tank. ( Book says 1.3 but it says total 4.4) That math 3 plus 1.3 added in my mind to 4.3 and the book notes 4.4 as a total. Then I ran the motor. Let it settle down. So I pull the dipstick,wipe it off, screw it back in. Dipstick reads to the add mark ??? How much oil should I put in at an oil change. Or am I doing something wrong?

Bill Kane

You can't reach the proper engine temp at idle. Need to ride long enough to bring everything up to temp. Then check.

.1 isn't enough to worry about. Try not to go over the full mark, but do your best to maintain your oil level at or above the halfway point.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's what I do..!!

after oil change put three qts in then fire up the engine, check that oil light goes out, and let it run till it reaches operating temp. Digital 4/5 bars or 190* or so. Then measure and add accordingly till close to or on full mark. Slowly cause it is harder to get oil out than adding. After long rydes I check level when arriving home and top off. Oil consumption gets less with mileage... :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

after oil change put three qts in then fire up the engine, check that oil light goes out, and let it run till it reaches operating temp. Digital 4/5 bars or 190* or so. Then measure and add accordingly till close to or on full mark. Slowly cause it is harder to get oil out than adding. After long rydes I check level when arriving home and top off. Oil consumption gets less with mileage... :thumbup:

Think he has an SE. Two filters and a shift control module that probably should be cycled.

 

[Magdave]

Sounds about right on a cold engine take it for a ride to get it to full temp and recheck.:thumbup:

 

[Showie]

This oil thing drives me crazy :banghead:. I learned on the farm to check the oil before starting engine. I do not understand why BRP doesn't have a dipstick that registers correct oil level while engine is cold. It doesn't seem that hard. pps: Just my 2 cents.

 

[NancysToy]

This oil thing drives me crazy :banghead:. I learned on the farm to check the oil before starting engine. I do not understand why BRP doesn't have a dipstick that registers correct oil level while engine is cold. It doesn't seem that hard. pps: Just my 2 cents.

The oil level is more uniform when everything, oil coolant and metal, is at full operating temperature. That is the best way to get consistent readings not affected by varying ambient temperatures. In addition, running the engine is necessary to evacuate any oil that has drained to the sump on a dry-sump engine.

 

[ulflyer]

Bill, don't add any more till you've taken it for a ride; otherwise you'll be overfilling it. After I get 4 qts in I don't do the top off till i've been out for a ride.

 

[gypsy_100]

J I put 3 quarts on full synthetic Rotella into the tank.

Bill Kane

The oil level is more uniform when everything, oil coolant and metal, is at full operating temperature. That is the best way to get consistent readings not affected by varying ambient temperatures. In addition, running the engine is necessary to evacuate any oil that has drained to the sump on a dry-sump engine.

Bill, don't add any more till you've taken it for a ride; otherwise you'll be overfilling it. After I get 4 qts in I don't do the top off till i've been out for a ride.

Good advice here. Your low level at the "add" mark could well be near "full" when truly hot after a ride, not just idling in the driveway to "warm it up". Ride it and then check it.

Rotella T6 is a popular oil for motorcycles as users have found "diesel" oil to be much cheaper than "motorcycle" oils. And Shell did come out with statements that their T6 meets JASO MA standards for good wet clutch operation. However, the tougher, more restrictive standard is JASO MA2. The MA2 standard will insure the best protection against clutch slippage. Rotella T6 meets MA but not MA2. People on this forum have reported problems with clutch slippage on some oils that only satisfy JASO MA. You might want to consider that when buying oil for your next oil change. And be alert while riding to any signs of slippage. It may well be fine -- I'm not saying it won't. Just bringing it to your attention.

There are countless oil threads on this forum -- no need to repeat them here. Just search them and do your homework and decide for yourself.

 

[jerpinoy]

I'm not a math major but if you remove 4 qrts then replace it with 4 qrts plus for your dry filters. jm2 cents.

 

[gypsy_100]

I'm not a math major but if you remove 4 qrts then replace it with 4 qrts plus for your dry filters. jm2 cents.

If you're referring to my post just above yours, and the quote I included about adding 3 qts, I excerpted that from the original post to emphasize that the original poster was using Rotella T oil. If you read his entire post, he followed the BRP recommended procedure in adding 3 qts, running the engine for 2 minutes at idle, then adding the recommended 1.2 or 1.3 qts. I suspect where he didn't follow procedure is in not getting the engine fully hot before checking the final level.

The point I wanted to make concerns the Rotella T oil and possible clutch slippage with an oil that meets JASO MA but does not meet JASO MA2. That's why I shortened the quote and only included part of his full post. Hope that answers your concern. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[ST114ME]

Good advice here. Your low level at the "add" mark could well be near "full" when truly hot after a ride, not just idling in the driveway to "warm it up". Ride it and then check it.

Rotella T6 is a popular oil for motorcycles as users have found "diesel" oil to be much cheaper than "motorcycle" oils. And Shell did come out with statements that their T6 meets JASO MA standards for good wet clutch operation. However, the tougher, more restrictive standard is JASO MA2. The MA2 standard will insure the best protection against clutch slippage. Rotella T6 meets MA but not MA2. People on this forum have reported problems with clutch slippage on some oils that only satisfy JASO MA. You might want to consider that when buying oil for your next oil change. And be alert while riding to any signs of slippage. It may well be fine -- I'm not saying it won't. Just bringing it to your attention.

There are countless oil threads on this forum -- no need to repeat them here. Just search them and do your homework and decide for yourself.

So, we are earmarking Rotella as sub standard oil for this application ?

 

[Jeriatric]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?6390-FYI-Shell-Rotella-synthetic&highlight=rotella

So, we are earmarking Rotella as sub standard oil for this application ?

 

[3 Wheel Addict]

This oil thing drives me crazy :banghead:. I learned on the farm to check the oil before starting engine. I do not understand why BRP doesn't have a dipstick that registers correct oil level while engine is cold. It doesn't seem that hard. pps: Just my 2 cents.

:agree: If so much oil drains back into the engine why can't the dipstick just reflect the "drained back" level? I noticed on my 13 RT/S that when it's dead cold the oil level is just barely touching the "point" on the end of the stick, so why couldn't that just be the "cold" level?? When checking hot it's right at the top of the "cross hatch". They could easily give us a dipstick with a "hot" and "cold" mark.

 

[Dan_Ashley]

:agree: If so much oil drains back into the engine why can't the dipstick just reflect the "drained back" level? I noticed on my 13 RT/S that when it's dead cold the oil level is just barely touching the "point" on the end of the stick, so why couldn't that just be the "cold" level?? When checking hot it's right at the top of the "cross hatch". They could easily give us a dipstick with a "hot" and "cold" mark.

Why couldn't we just make our own marks? I do not understand.

 

[Jeriatric]

Previous conversation on this topic.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?14898-Cold-Oil-Level&highlight=level+cold

:agree: If so much oil drains back into the engine why can't the dipstick just reflect the "drained back" level? I noticed on my 13 RT/S that when it's dead cold the oil level is just barely touching the "point" on the end of the stick, so why couldn't that just be the "cold" level?? When checking hot it's right at the top of the "cross hatch". They could easily give us a dipstick with a "hot" and "cold" mark.

Why couldn't we just make our own marks? I do not understand.

 

[NancysToy]

:agree: If so much oil drains back into the engine why can't the dipstick just reflect the "drained back" level? I noticed on my 13 RT/S that when it's dead cold the oil level is just barely touching the "point" on the end of the stick, so why couldn't that just be the "cold" level?? When checking hot it's right at the top of the "cross hatch". They could easily give us a dipstick with a "hot" and "cold" mark.

The amount of drain-back is variable, depending on the oil temperature, position of the oil pump rotors, condition of the oil pump, and condition of any backflow valve in the system. The cleanliness and viscosity of the oil matter, too. The reason BRP did things this way was for repeatability. A longer dipstick would have been handy, though.

 

[Dan_Ashley]

The amount of drain-back is variable, depending on the oil temperature, position of the oil pump rotors, condition of the oil pump, and condition of any backflow valve in the system. The cleanliness and viscosity of the oil matter, too. The reason BRP did things this way was for repeatability. A longer dipstick would have been handy, though.

oh...I guess I asked another dumb question.....seems to be MY speciality! LOL!

 

[Jeriatric]

"Dan_Ashley;726789]oh...I guess I asked another dumb question.....seems to be MY speciality! LOL!"

Being inquisitive is hardly dumb.

A simple sight gauge in the oil tank would make life easier for everyone. Especially those who detest or are timid about removing a panel to check oil.