Oil leak 2021 400 miles - HELP

[bluewoo]

I noticed a little oil around the filler when I had it delivered last year. Washing it I would see the occasional oil ring so I really cleaned the underside before winter. I looked under it last week and noticed oil at the one drain plug and on the exhaust but no drips on the ground. Wiped them off and checked drain plug and it was tight and washed it again.

Ran the hell out of it for about 30 mins, hard throttle to rev limiter and hard braking.

Today I put her on ramps, real bummer and I hope its just over filled.

Where does the excess oil come out of? You can see oil drops on the lower areas the whole way across the engine, I cannot see anything wet up top. I cannot see where the dipstick goes in either. I now a lot of the oil has accumulated in the plastic cover and center frame.

Thanks!!

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[trikermutha]

Since your saying its around the drain plug area. It the drain plug washer seated properly?

Those are a PIA to get seated sometimes. Even if the drain seems tight the copper washer may not be sealing.

Dont over tighten that drain plug

Oil around the oil filler is that where its coming from or the drain?? Was it over filled?? How is the oil level on the dip stick?

I would suggest to bring it in for warranty.

 

[bluewoo]

trikermutha *forgot to hit reply:sour:

I can't see around the oil filter or dipstick area without removing more panels. Oil is the whole way across the underside so its not the drain plug as far as I can tell (back and front of engine are dry), Im hoping it just was overfilled and I can correct it vs going in for warranty. I'll have to pull more panels to look closer before giving up all spring for warranty.
Its only been a couple of drops since I've owned last year but man does that little plastic cover hold a lot. Just looking for some ideas that I can correct before going to the dealer.:helpsmilie:

Thanks

 

[Possible]

Take it to the dealer, that's why you pay the big bucks for a new vehicle, use the warranty rather than fight it. Let them
figure it out.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Are you sure it hasn't been over-filled with oil?? Once you get oil being pushed outta anywhere & spread/sprayed all over the place under the tupperware, it can collect, pool, & then drip for ages, even if you think you've cleaned it all off!! :sour:

Even a 'slight' over-fill might mean you end up with oil in the air intake &/or filter, and from there it can pool/collect over time until it starts to seep/weep/run out & eventually appear as drips or even runs in all sorts of places, making you think your engine is leaking from places that it really isn't!! However, an over-fill that's anything much more than just 'slight' might mean that you end up with oil being forced into places that it really shouldn't be... so much that sometimes, the accumulated & pressurised excess oil can 'blow out' seals &/or gaskets that normally wouldn't have any issues containing the little amount of oil they are designed to contain! :cus:

So, are you sure that your Spyder engine hasn't ever been over-filled with oil?? :dontknow:

 

[bluewoo]

I keep missing the "reply with quote"!

No, I'm not sure if it was over filled, I'll try to check it again and see what I find. 400 miles on it - does the dealer fill them for PDI???

This what I'm praying for! I'm cleaning everything off now underneath, and I don't know where it collects if it is overfilled. Would I see it if I removed the air filter?
,
Everything is right in the middle of the engine from left to right. Front bottom is clean and the rear bottom is clean. Drain plug area from left to right the whole way across is wet. It's definitely coming from up high and weeping across the middle area and slowly accumulating in the plastic cover and frame.

I'll take any advice to not have to take it to a dealership if it's as simple as an overfill!

Thanks Peter!

 

[Peter Aawen]

Bluewoo, it's not really all that easy to take the air filter housing &/or the inlet trunking out, and you'd probably need to do that to 'properly' (or maybe even 'adequately'?? ) clean & inspect everything the placcy bits hide - but just taking the filter housing lid off & lifting/removing the air filter from the housing so that you can carefully (making sure you don't let 'dust' or anything else get into the intake/s) wipe the housing out & mop up any collected oil, whether it's dusty mist, or full on puddles! :shocked:

Don't laugh, I have seen a couple of filter housings with full on engine oil soaked filters & puddles of oil in there, and more of them with oil dripping out of the intake tubing, and all of that 'excess oil' can end up seeping/running out of the housing/trunking & onto other things - so anything you can do to clean any trapped oil out of that lot will help!! :thumbup:

And I hafta say, by far the majority of 'oil leaks' that I've seen have actually been cases of 'oil spills' or 'oil over-fills' than anything else, often from/by dealer techs too; so I'd think/hope that yours is just another case like most of the rest! Good Luck! :cheers:



Ps: 'Reply with Quote' can be handy to make it clear who/what you are responding to, but it can also SERIOUSLY make the thread difficult to read & follow if it's used too much! So unless you NEED to use it to specifically identify a particular point in an earlier post that you are responding to, it's a whole lot easier and kinder to readers just to address the previous poster's username in your text, as I have above!

And when it comes to addressing a particular point in an earlier post, sure, you can hit 'Reply with Quote' and maybe p**s people off by showing us yet again/forcing us to scroll past all the stuff we've only just finished reading and any pics, attachments etc in that previous post, but you really don't HAVE to show the entire thing in your reply (especially if it's a saga, like many of my posts! ) Once you've got the entire quote & its 'quote text' into your draft reply, you can edit out anything that's not essential to your reply making sense - just show where you've edited out text, pics, attachments etc by inserting something like '....' or maybe 'snip' where you removed the superfluous stuff - only ALWAYS leave the [.QUOTE=Poster's username;12349876] bit at the beginning and the [/.QUOTE] bit at the end of the quote so it'll still display as a quote! (Extra .'s added before QUOTE delimiters deliberately to allow Command Line to show! ) The delimiter commands & the square brackets [ - ] that 'contain' them are ESSENTIAL parts of the Command Lines that enable this, so if you edit/delete any of those on either side of QUOTE, then please, put them back before hitting submit!

For example, this abbreviated/shortened Quote:

I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter!

is achieved by doing this:

[.QUOTE=bluewoo;1565632]I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter![/.QUOTE]

(With those "extra .'s" of course! )

Now, let's get back to our normal program. :thumbup:

 

[bluewoo]

Bluewoo, it's not really all that easy to take the air filter housing &/or the inlet trunking out, and you'd probably need to do that to 'properly' (or maybe even 'adequately'?? ) clean & inspect everything the placcy bits hide - but just taking the filter housing lid off & lifting/removing the air filter from the housing so that you can carefully (making sure you don't let 'dust' or anything else get into the intake/s) wipe the housing out & mop up any collected oil, whether it's dusty mist, or full on puddles! :shocked:

Don't laugh, I have seen a couple of filter housings with full on engine oil soaked filters & puddles of oil in there, and more of them with oil dripping out of the intake tubing, and all of that 'excess oil' can end up seeping/running out of the housing/trunking & onto other things - so anything you can do to clean any trapped oil out of that lot will help!!

And I hafta say, by far the majority of 'oil leaks' that I've seen have actually been cases of 'oil spills' or 'oil over-fills' than anything else, often from/by dealer techs too; so I'd think/hope that yours is just another case like most of the rest! Good Luck! :cheers:



Ps: 'Reply with Quote' can be handy to make it clear who/what you are responding to, but it can also SERIOUSLY make the thread difficult to read & follow if it's used too much! So unless you NEED to use it to specifically identify a particular point in an earlier post that you are responding to, it's a whole lot easier and kinder to readers just to address the previous poster's username in your text, as I have above!

And when it comes to addressing a particular point in an earlier post, sure, you can hit 'Reply with Quote' and maybe p**s people off by showing us yet again/forcing us to scroll past all the stuff we've only just finished reading and any pics, attachments etc in that previous post, but you really don't HAVE to show the entire thing in your reply (especially if it's a saga, like many of my posts! ) Once you've got the entire quote & its 'quote text' into your draft reply, you can edit out anything that's not essential to your reply making sense - just show where you've edited out text, pics, attachments etc by inserting something like '....' or maybe 'snip' where you removed the superfluous stuff - only ALWAYS leave the [.QUOTE=Poster's username;12349876] bit at the beginning and the [/.QUOTE] bit at the end of the quote so it'll still display as a quote! (Extra .'s added before QUOTE delimiters deliberately to allow Command Line to show! ) The delimiter commands & the square brackets [ - ] that 'contain' them are ESSENTIAL parts of the Command Lines that enable this, so if you edit/delete any of those on either side of QUOTE, then please, put them back before hitting submit!

For example, this abbreviated/shortened Quote:


is achieved by doing this:

[.QUOTE=bluewoo;1565632]I keep missing the "reply with quote" !
..... (edit/deleted text) .....
Thanks Peter![/.QUOTE]

(With those "extra .'s" of course! )

Now, let's get back to our normal program.

Ok, the air box is clean and dry. I sprayed simple green on everything to see if this will help as I ran out of brake clean.
Thanks for the help and recommendations LOL as I'm just frustrated. I can see above the alt and it's dry around it, as nothing is wet on top and around the oil filter area, only the filler tub is hard to see, but looks dry. If the secondary air box (throttle body) is dripping oil, this would be exactly where it could be coming from, but I cannot get my hands near it!
I'll keep everyone posted, and I'll re check the oil too!

Thanks again!!

 

[Possible]

I have never taken a vehicle to a dealer voluntarily. But if I spent $20,000-$25,000 for a new vehicle and something appeared to be wrong,
and I was not an experienced motorcycle/Spyder mechanic, I would return it post-haste.

 

[JayBros]

Get the bloody Spyder to the dealership and tell them you want it fixed as well as an explanation, including any replaced parts, as to why an engine with a sterling reputation for not using or leaking oil had the problem.

 

[bluewoo]

I have never taken a vehicle to a dealer voluntarily. But if I spent $20,000-$25,000 for a new vehicle and something appeared to be wrong,
and I was not an experienced motorcycle/Spyder mechanic, I would return it post-haste.

I agree and I am an experienced mechanic on many levels. I've spent my life fixing things before getting to the dealer so they know what's wrong.
Too many days wasted "we don't know what's wrong" bla bla.
So I'll look around, and if its a real leak then it goes to the dealer...

 

[bluewoo]

Get the bloody Spyder to the dealership and tell them you want it fixed as well as an explanation, including any replaced parts, as to why an engine with a sterling reputation for not using or leaking oil had the problem.

We will see after a good cleaning underneath and a good run tomorrow.
I hate dealerships!

 

[TicketBait]

We will see after a good cleaning underneath and a good run tomorrow.
I hate dealerships!

Yes, please let us know, I too have a 2021 RTL.
I used a very knowlegable mechanic find the same issue when installing my Baja Ron swaybar.
Only had 100 miles on her at the time. He re checked all the torx and everything was correct.
Said to take to dealer and it will be covered under warranty. BRP will just ask where is it leaking from. :banghead:

- - -

 

[PW2013STL]

Yes, please let us know, I too have a 2021 RTL.
I used a very knowlegable mechanic find the same issue when installing my Baja Ron swaybar.
Only had 100 miles on her at the time. He re checked all the torx and everything was correct.
Said to take to dealer and it will be covered under warranty. BRP will just ask where is it leaking from. :banghead:

Looks like your issue is the trans side drain plug, as you can see oil on the plug in that picture.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Do either of these Spyders have any signs of spillage near the fillers?? :dontknow:

I can't help but notice that even for a 'new engine', the oil both your pics show is looking awfully clean for oil that's been thru the engine - even if only for a few hundred miles or so?? Which makes one wonder, did whoever did the assy on either/both of those machines just get a bit sloppy when they were throwing the oil in?? :shocked:

Even a little 'fresh oil spillage' will go a loooong way; and given all the little nooks & crevices & trays where a small puddle could be trapped/contained underneath the tupperware on a Spyder, they could easily drip like that for MONTHS afterwards?! :gaah:

Possibly even longer if they were overfilled too!

 

[TicketBait]

Looks like your issue is the trans side drain plug, as you can see oil on the plug in that picture.

I remember him saying it was leaking on both sides, that's why he (the mechanic, Lou) said it probably wasn't overfill. But I want to hear what Bluewoo finds out, and then I will show my dealership this thread if it might be of any help.

Was at the dealership today for another issue and showed them these photos, but they are currently backlogged to getting to it.
So I am gonna keep an eye on my oil fluid levels, but you say this may be transmission oil? I am all green thumbs when it comes to this stuff!

 

[Little Blue]

Engine Oil Leaks

From the pictures posted: possible leak at the transmission drain plug, possibly a leak between the engine block and covers.
Like maybe the gasket(s) or seal(s) are damaged or maybe missing.

I would clean and inspect the entire engine area. Run/Ryde the Spyder for 15-30 minutes. Then check the engine oil level and then check out for any more oil leakage.
If anything is wrong, BRP needs to know and find a fix. ......:thumbup:

 

[Peter Aawen]

.......
So I am gonna keep an eye on my oil fluid levels, but you say this may be transmission oil? I am all green thumbs when it comes to this stuff

Yeah, on a Spyder, with a constant mesh gearbox & a wet clutch where the engine & the transmission SHARE the same oil, then YES, it is transmission oil - and it is engine oil too! Same same! :thumbup:

Not much else you can do but raise it as a warranty issue with BRP/your dealer and demand it be fixed; but until that happens/in the meantime, clean it up whenever necessary, keep an eye on your oil level, and I guess keep on hoping it never turns into a real engine or transmission issue! :gaah:

 

[blacklightning]

I have not read all the posts in this thread, but my 2016 F3T had a leak from the "O" ring around the oil filler tube. The mechanic said that was a common thing. They replaced it and I've never had an issue since then.

 

[bluewoo]

I have not read all the posts in this thread, but my 2016 F3T had a leak from the "O" ring around the oil filler tube. The mechanic said that was a common thing. They replaced it and I've never had an issue since then.

It's about impossible to see the whole tube on the 2020's. I can see it's two piece design, but that's it. I'm going to run it today after a really good cleaning, and then properly check the oil level and cross my fingers.