HankD
New member
I did my first "real" work on my 2017 RTS last night, changing the Oil/oil filter and replacing the stock air filter with a K/N model. The only work I had done previous to this was installing some foam grips, and putting a handlebar mount X-grip ball mount on (breaking 2 6mm bits in the process due to BRP's love for yellow locktite.
For those of you who may be hesitant to do this sort of work on your Spyder, I'll tell you it isn't bad at all. I'm certainly no master mechanic, but I got thru it fine in about 2.5 hrs taking my time. I got videos from several sources on how to remove the panels and do both installations (you have to work on both sides of the bike, one side for the oil filter change and the other for the air filter change). It's pretty easy.
Some of the push pins can be a little stubborn, as well as getting some of the nipple plugs back in the grommets. The stock mirrors were no problem for me to remove and re-attach, but I will get the magnetic mounts soon to make it even easier next time I need to remove panels. I saved over $300 from what the "stealer" was going to charge for the work, which is a great feeling of satisfaction.
The only advice I have is:
1. That damn oil drain pan cover is a pain. It's really hard to keep oil from getting in there when you crack the drain plugs. I used a little dam made out of shop towels to put around the opening, but some still go in there. Luckily it wasn't too much and it's all dripped out now.
2. Before you open the oil filter cover, make SURE you have drain pans still aligned under both the transmission and crankcase drain ports. A big "sploosh" of residual oil comes out when you remove the filter. (Yes, I made a little mess but no biggie)
3. I drove my front tires up on car ramps, and jacked the back end of the Spyder up a few inches with a simple scissor jack. It made accessing the drain ports much easier and you could see to make sure you get the bits in all the way (T45 for the crankcase, 6mm "long" hex bit for the transmission).
4. Lamonster push pin pliers are very handy. As well as they provide spare pins in case you break/damage one. Mine were all ok.
There is still some stuff I won't try to tackle on my own (removing the rear tire, etc), but I feel totally comfortable with the basic stuff requiring body panel removal now.
Ride on!..:doorag:
For those of you who may be hesitant to do this sort of work on your Spyder, I'll tell you it isn't bad at all. I'm certainly no master mechanic, but I got thru it fine in about 2.5 hrs taking my time. I got videos from several sources on how to remove the panels and do both installations (you have to work on both sides of the bike, one side for the oil filter change and the other for the air filter change). It's pretty easy.
Some of the push pins can be a little stubborn, as well as getting some of the nipple plugs back in the grommets. The stock mirrors were no problem for me to remove and re-attach, but I will get the magnetic mounts soon to make it even easier next time I need to remove panels. I saved over $300 from what the "stealer" was going to charge for the work, which is a great feeling of satisfaction.
The only advice I have is:
1. That damn oil drain pan cover is a pain. It's really hard to keep oil from getting in there when you crack the drain plugs. I used a little dam made out of shop towels to put around the opening, but some still go in there. Luckily it wasn't too much and it's all dripped out now.
2. Before you open the oil filter cover, make SURE you have drain pans still aligned under both the transmission and crankcase drain ports. A big "sploosh" of residual oil comes out when you remove the filter. (Yes, I made a little mess but no biggie)
3. I drove my front tires up on car ramps, and jacked the back end of the Spyder up a few inches with a simple scissor jack. It made accessing the drain ports much easier and you could see to make sure you get the bits in all the way (T45 for the crankcase, 6mm "long" hex bit for the transmission).
4. Lamonster push pin pliers are very handy. As well as they provide spare pins in case you break/damage one. Mine were all ok.
There is still some stuff I won't try to tackle on my own (removing the rear tire, etc), but I feel totally comfortable with the basic stuff requiring body panel removal now.
Ride on!..:doorag:
