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Oil Drain Plug Removal

Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.

Pretty much, yes. I used a short 3/8" extension to get some distance and have something solid to hit. I rapped it a few good smacks. Start out with less energy to get a feel for it. You can always hit it harder if needed. Make sure the tool is inserted all the way into the plug and keep it at a right angle to the plug. I would not recommend an impact wrench. Though I have not tried one. It's impossible to get a feel for what is happening with any power driven tool.

I have no idea what the torque specs are on the drain plugs. I don't think a torque wrench is used, in most cases. It's more a matter of; 'If tight is good. Tighter is better' approach. They just crank it down as tight as they are able and call it good. When all you need to do is just snug the drain plug a bit after contact with the washer is made. It will still get somewhat tighter through the heat cycles. But it will be much more manageable when you go to remove it the next time.
 
...One of the you tube video's mentioned the tools required were a T45 and a T40...

It's truly amazing as long as the 1330 ACE engine has now been out that some moron could make a video saying the clutch cover plug has a Torx head.
 
It's truly amazing as long as the 1330 ACE engine has now been out that some moron could make a video saying the clutch cover plug has a Torx head.

There is a lot of great information on the web. There is also a fair amount of bad information. Like the guy who said to turn the rear caliper piston counter clock wise. It's amazing how many people have found that statement. Very bad results. You just have to be careful. I'm sure these people are well meaning. But it's you who will suffer the consequences if it goes wrong.
 
Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.

" TAP " the plug …. When I do this - the socket tool I'm using is inserted into the " PLUG " usually with a short extension ……. and the end is tapped ( moderately ) a couple of times, this is the safest way on doing it ….. you don't want to accidently hit the Engine case etc.….....Mike :ohyea:
 
Cool.. Thanks. Always amazed at how tight the oil bolts are when removing them for the first time. May/may not go the Gold Plug route when I do the first change. My Triumph 800 had a hex bolt with no issues. The angled torx seems to be asking for a traditional drain bolt...
 
:agree: …. I only changed to the GOLD plug on the Torx bolt for that reason. ...never had any issues with the Hex bolt …. and as others have said either the Dimple or Gold plugs are weaker than the solid OEM steel ones ….. but I am very careful about tightening them …. and yes I have had to go back and snug them a bit if I discovered any drips ( but not often ) …… Mike :ohyea:
 
Can someone point out which Gold Plug is right for the 1330 engine? Gold Plug doesn’t list Can-Am in its selections.

TIA

David
 
<snip>

I have no idea what the torque specs are on the drain plugs. <snip>
You can find generic torque numbers based on the size of the bolt and the thread pitch. Look for a chart on line (Fastenal, Bolt Depot, etc.), or in Machinery's Handbook. At least you'd be in the ballpark.
 
From my 2019 manual:

TIGHTENING TORQUE
Drain plug (oil
sump cover)
28 N•m ± 2 N•m
(21 lbf•ft ± 1 lbf•ft)

TIGHTENING TORQUE
Magnetic drain
plug (clutch cover)
20 N•m ± 2 N•m
(15 lbf•ft ± 1 lbf•ft)
 
Drain Plug (oil sump cover) [Riders Left Side] 21 lb-ft +/- 1 lb-ft
Magnetic Drain Plug (clutch cover) [Riders Right Side] 15 lb-ft +/- 1 lb-ft
Oil Filter Cover 18 lb-ft +/- 1 lb-ft
 
From my 2019 manual:

TIGHTENING TORQUE
Drain plug (oil
sump cover)
28 N•m ± 2 N•m
(21 lbf•ft ± 1 lbf•ft)

TIGHTENING TORQUE
Magnetic drain
plug (clutch cover)
20 N•m ± 2 N•m
(15 lbf•ft ± 1 lbf•ft)

With people talking about what a fight it is to loosen the plugs you have to think at those relatively low torque settings that they have a gorilla in Austria who doesn't have a calibrated air torque wrench sending those plugs home.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but are both plugs the same size so buy 2?? Listing says
BP5-303, M14 x 1.5 Fits:
Main Engine Reservoir Spyder 1330, 14+ (Extended Magnetic Oil Drain Plug)

In the 1330 engine the two oil plugs are different , maybe the same thread size , but physically different ….. hope this helps …. Mike :ohyea:
 
Spyder-1330-Magnetic-Drain-Plug-Set-.png
 
In the 1330 engine the two oil plugs are different , maybe the same thread size , but physically different ….. hope this helps …. Mike :ohyea:
Not really helpful but thanks.

Nice pics. No details tho.

Parts list shows engine SCREW M14 X 1.5 with oring grooves 420441681 and clutch cover Magnetic Drain Plug M12 X 1.5 42024178 . so Gwolf shows the right pics so I would guess .... one m5-302 and one m5-303. But I don't like guessing. Bear in mind, I changed my oil three months ago so I don't remember (even if I did it 15 minutes ago I would not remember :dontknow:).
 
There are several different after-market magnetic drain plugs. When you start looking for them, you will find them listed by which Spyder engines they fit. They are all pretty much the same shape and threads as the stock plugs. The difference is they have a hex head on them and a magnetic plug in the end. Search by which engine you have and you will find the right ones. Some of them have different stock numbers, so not much sense in listing all the numbers. The seller will have the year and engine size the plugs fit in the specs for them.
 
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