Oil Drain Plug Removal

[Wildrice]

I'm thinking whoever installed my oil drain plug used red loctite with an impact gun or a 4' breaker bar.
the trans plug was metric & came out as expected. I have stripped the treads on the main oil drain using 3 different sets of large Torq socket inserts. Currently I'm in the process of drilling the plug & using an "Easy Out" removal bit.
Has anyone else ran across this problem & how did you solve it?:banghead::banghead::banghead: Tried to hammer the plug loose--no deal. I was considering using a butane portable torch to try to loosen up the recessed oil drain plug but didn't want to risk a fire with the oil.:yikes:
Anyone with a similar problem & resolution :bowdown:---I have the Gold oil plugs for replacement of stock plugs.
Darrell

 

[beefybudds]

I feel your pain.
I had to replace my clutch cover at a cost of just under $1,100..
Come to find out today that the dealer who installed the dimple plugs at 3000 service torqued the plug so tight it snapped the plug in 2
The head of the plug just spins with threads not moving. With the old clutch cover in my possession you can actually see end of the plug plus 4 threads up from the end. Kinda neat to look at I guess.

 

[Chupaca]

Wow...!!

Generally a socket allen/torx set in place hit solidly with a hammer should break the varnish sealing them in. I have not found one I could not get out this way or going for an impact driver :dontknow:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Generally a socket allen/torx set in place hit solidly with a hammer should break the varnish sealing them in. I have not found one I could not get out this way or going for an impact driver :dontknow:

:agree::agree::agree::agree: .............Plus , this may sound STUPID to some ....but I ALWAYS set my ratchet wrench to " re-move " ( lefty loosey ) and check it.....before I put the wrench on.....I have never " tightened " a plug I wanted to remove because it was up-side down ( so left is right etc. )....just a thought to all us non-perfect folks ....:roflblack:......Mike

 

[Wildrice]

:agree::agree::agree::agree: .............Plus , this may sound STUPID to some ....but I ALWAYS set my ratchet wrench to " re-move " ( lefty loosey ) and check it.....before I put the wrench on.....I have never " tightened " a plug I wanted to remove because it was up-side down ( so left is right etc. )....just a thought to all us non-perfect folks ....:roflblack:......Mike

Thanks Mike--CCW is my direction of choice when removing a plug :yes: I'm counting on the "Easy Out" to verify removal direction.

I'll be back at it again this morning---I'll hammer the plug again should a few more flat punch hits help--then back to the hand drill prepping for the "Easy Out". I can't believe anyone would mistake 210# torg for 21# torq---sucks to be me nojokenojoke
I was thinking of putting a Bounty out on the guy that invented the "Torx design :shocked:

 

[Sam Mac]

I'll toss out a possible way to remove the plug. I restore old Cub Cadet tractors as a hobby. Very often they have broken bolts that hold the rear ends in the frame. The bolts have Loc-Tite on them from the factory. They tend to break off flush with the case. Easy outs are a waste of time and often they will break making the problem worse. What we have found that works well is to weld a large diameter washer to the broken bolt and then weld a nut to the washer. So far I have not had one that wouldn't come out this way. I use a Mig welder when I do this and I ground to the washer not the case. If you decide to try this I would disconnect the battery to reduce the possibility of frying the computer. Do this at your own risk. 1st pic is a case with a couple broken bolts and 2nd pic is the removed bolts.

 

[Wildrice]

Stripped oil drain plug Solution

Well to start with I don't have a welder :-(
But in the process of changing drill bits--different sizes to get the "Easy Out" started, more hammer pounding, all with failure.
Then I notice the bottom of the engine/trans with the recessed torx oil drain plug was covered by a molded piece of plastic-whatever material. There are 2 small bolts up inside at the top of the plastic shield. I removed the 2 small bolts & jiggled the shield until I could pull it down to get a straight view of the round approx 1/8" oil drain plug shoulder. I searched through my tools until I found my largest Vice Grip---clamped that narrow round plug shoulder & PRESTO--it came loose---the ole vice grip trick:yes: If any of you are driving past Jiffy Lube this week just stop by and advise them to cancel my job application :lecturef_smilie:
Instead of being an oil change specialist I'm considering becoming a Mortician --a career I could put to good use right after I find the guy that invented the Torx head design.

Darrell

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Well to start with I don't have a welder :-(
But in the process of changing drill bits--different sizes to get the "Easy Out" started, more hammer pounding, all with failure.
Then I notice the bottom of the engine/trans with the recessed torx oil drain plug was covered by a molded piece of plastic-whatever material. There are 2 small bolts up inside at the top of the plastic shield. I removed the 2 small bolts & jiggled the shield until I could pull it down to get a straight view of the round approx 1/8" oil drain plug shoulder. I searched through my tools until I found my largest Vice View attachment 134834Grip---clamped that narrow round plug shoulder & PRESTO--it came loose---the ole vice grip trick:yes: If any of you are driving past Jiffy Lube this week just stop by and advise them to cancel my job application :lecturef_smilie:
Instead of being an oil change specialist I'm considering becoming a Mortician --a career I could put to good use right after I find the guy that invented the Torx head design.

Darrell

Glad you got it out and still have a sense of humor. I needed a laugh and this provided me with one.

 

[Sam Mac]

Glad you got it out.

 

[gcoyne9825]

This week I made the decision to change the oil on my wife's 2018 RT. I had watched a couple of you tube videos in which one recommended the use of the GOLD PLUG replacement bolts. I'm so glad that I purchased the replacement bolts because I ran into difficulty remove the clutch side drain plug. One of the you tube video's mentioned the tools required were a T45 and a T40. I quickly found out the clutch side bolt was really an 6mm allen, only this did occur until I had stripped it. I purchased an easy out, but that broke off! At the end of the day, I sprayed PB Plaster on it multiple times and let it set. Next, I purchased a bolt extractor made by Irwin from Lowes. I had to use a hammer to get it on. I then used my driller in 'hammer mode' a few times. My last and final step was connecting a ratchet to the Irwin tool and it broke loose. I for one do believe the PB Blaster worked. I could see it being 'drawn into' and 'in and around' the bolt and washer.

 

[WisconsinDavid]

Glad you got it out... I had the struggle with both the oil tank bolt and engine oil drain bolts. Luckily for me, with endurance, patience and my Christianity severely tested (I'm a pastor), I got them both out without stripping the threads. Both have been replaced with regular head and better bolts.

 

[troop]

Great ... I'll be doing my initial 3k oil change in a couple weeks. Hope it goes smoother than those above

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Great ... I'll be doing my initial 3k oil change in a couple weeks. Hope it goes smoother than those above

If you are using a Ratchet and Sockets.... prior to putting it on the plug …. set the Ratchet to loosen …. this way you WON'T accidentally tighten it …. if you think you would NEVER make that mis-take …. guess again, it happens way more than folks think, or will admit to …. over-tightening GOLD or DIMPLE plugs can easily snap them, if your plug is solid it won't snap, but it can easily strip the Threads which is far worse ….. The other thing I caution about is overtightening the plug after you drain the Oil ….. if you get a drip just tighten a hair more, doing this again until the drip stops …. good luck, all should go well, bro ….. Mike hyea:

 

[troop]

Ha .. Yup. Been doing all my m/c oil changes for the past 45+ years and always make sure the ratchet is orientated correctly. A quick snap (making sure the socket is nicely seated) tends to be better than gradual pressure too. And, although I have never stripped a drain plug, I've become more anal the past few years of using a TQ wrench when re-installing the plugs versus the snug method

 

[Gwolf]

That piece of plastic over the lower part of the F3-S is what keeps you from being able to get to the edge of the drain plugs with a chisel to tap them out. The piece of plastic has 3 bolts in it. If you take the other bolt near the rear out, you don't need to jiggle the piece of plastic around. It will come completely off. I had the same problem when I did the original break in oil change. Replaced the plugs with Goldplugs. Something else that could possibly help when you do the oil changes is, you don't need the oil at operating temperature before draining it. The plugs might come out a little easier if you only run about a 1/2 mile, or maybe around the block, then put it up and pull the plugs. It doesn't have to be operating temperature. It only needs the oil to stir around enough to get any particles that have settle out to be suspended again before draining it. Pulling the plugs when it is not at operating temperature seems to be a little easier.

 

[BajaRon]

Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.

Ron I'm glad you mentioned the " give the plug a good TAP " to break the varnish seal …. I'm getting OLD and forget some of the more salient points ….. Mike hyea:

 

[troop]

" give the plug a good TAP " Meaning physically giving the plug(s) a tap ?

 

[ChicagoSpyder]

Most people get these drain plugs way too tight. All they need is snug. On my 1st oil change the crank case plug was way too tight. I feared stripping the wrench hole so I smacked the drain plug a few times to help brake it loose, which worked. I'm still using the OEM drain plugs with zero issues. But, I don't over tighten them either. Never had one leak, fall out, etc.

After a number of heat cycles these drain plugs get tighter. If you start with them real tight, they will be a bear to remove when the time comes. Of course getting a socket, hex head drain plug makes it so you can tighten them as tight as you'd like. But it's still not necessary.

I've had good luck with JB Weld by 'Welding' a nut onto the stripped out part. The surface needs to be clean and flat. Both surfaces need to be etched with coarse sand paper. It's best if you can apply some pressure to the pieces as the thinner the JB Weld, the stronger the bond. And you need to use the much stronger 24 hour version. But it has worked great for me. Especially if that part is hard to get to or made of aluminum/copper or other difficult to weld material.

Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.

 

[Gwolf]

Am I correct in asuming you just rap the plug bolt with a hammer before inserting the driver?

Also what do you think about going after it with a 1/2" impact wrench?

What does BRP recommend for a torque setting? I'm curious as to why they are so tight.

Torquing depends on a lot of things and one of them is oil on the threads. It is a little difficult to have clean, dry threads on an oil drain plug.