• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil change today, using Rotella T6 & BajaRon's kit!

well i changed my oil today. i have always used shell rotella t6 in my bikes. my spyder is no different. i went with baja rons oil filter and oring kit. which i received quickly. my spyder is a 2019 f3 limited. the main sump has a green oring and one black one. there are also a couple of red orings. the kit has all black orings. after contacting ron by email, he responded quickly. that i thought was impressive as far as his quick reply. he said no worries, after a brief explanation on his selection of orings for oil changes. i was good with that. changed the oil and filter went for a drive, all is well. this is the first oil change. has 4500 miles on it. the spyder runs better and shifts better with the rotella t6.
 
:congrats: on DIY'ing :clap: ..... I've done quite a few of them myself ..... and still use the same " O " rings that came with my RT .... If it ain't broke I don't fix it ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Rotella T6 5/40 is my oil of choice for my recent oil change, that's just me, not selling anything. I know, it's getting hard to find and expensive.

2020 RTL
Sebring FL
 
Been doing searches for oil for a month or two now and Tractor Supply seems to have the better prices, not by much though.
 
If you live in a decently temperate climate. I wouldn't be adverse to running the 15-40 in the Spyder. It might be more readily available. It would definitely outlast the 5/40 version. I've got some hot weather customers running 20/50 Amsoil and they are very happy with it.
 
First oil change. With my high performance personal watercrafts (Sea Doos) I did the first oil change between 5-10hr not the recommended 50hrs. Any of y’all changed oil in the Spyders way before the recommended service mileage?
 
My first service was performed by the dealer and signed off in my owner's manual for obvious reasons. I've done my own services since and have had some of my oil analyzed through Nappa. $15, good price. I use Amsoil and change oil/filter every 9k. I think a person could easily go 10k or more if using quality products.
 
My first service was performed by the dealer and signed off in my owner's manual for obvious reasons. I've done my own services since and have had some of my oil analyzed through Nappa. $15, good price. I use Amsoil and change oil/filter every 9k. I think a person could easily go 10k or more if using quality products.

I inadvertently went over 10K miles using the Rotella T6 oil and started to get clutch slipping. It would show up when I was on the highway on cruise control at about 75 mph.
Fresh oil change fixed it.
 
At 75 what'd you experience? Slippage on acceleration or just a slow or fast increase in RPM's. How did it show up?
 
I inadvertently went over 10K miles using the Rotella T6 oil and started to get clutch slipping. It would show up when I was on the highway on cruise control at about 75 mph.
Fresh oil change fixed it.

Well if the oil change fixed it, good for you! However, I can't really not fathom how 10,000 mile oil could cause the issue you have cited...unless the oil became highly diluted with something that was less compatible with the clutch disk material than the T6, which I also think unlikely from your comment. Normally if the oil hasn't become diluted with something, clutch slippage would occur fairly early with an oil that is not compatible with the clutch material (read high molybdenum level for example), which T6 has no problems with either as a new refill or older oil. Your experience I've not had as the result of used compatible oil on a properly working wet clutch, but good for you as I've said...Regards,
 
I have a neighbor that runs Delo 400 15w40 in everything including his Harley. He's never mentioned clutch slippage when we've discussed oils. Newer vehicles are calling for lighter weight oils like 5w20. I think that's because they're trying to improve MPG's.
 
Just changed oil for the season, again with Rotella 5/40 T6. The old oil after a season of use looked great on the dump...clean, nice coloring and no wear filings to discover. All set for another season. Thanks Ron for the help with the filter parts and quick service. Remember... where you can support the advertisers here who make this board possible. ~2010 RS SM5
 
I have a neighbor that runs Delo 400 15w40 in everything including his Harley. He's never mentioned clutch slippage when we've discussed oils. Newer vehicles are calling for lighter weight oils like 5w20. I think that's because they're trying to improve MPG's.

For no other reason than to chat a little, using the PQIA oil analysis, most of the Delo looks like a good enough product for wet clutch operation with the exception of the SDE version of the DELO 400, and that is strictly an opinion. I prefer new oil tests to show a molybdenum level of less than 100ppm. My reasoning is most oil-related wet clutch slipping issues seem to revolve around the molybdenum level. However with all the technical reading that I've run across no one ever gives a definitive number where problems begin to occur with the wet clutches. That said, there are a number of oils available that are below the 100ppm to 150ppm area that I believe to be in the questionable range for a new oil wet clutch application. Interestingly the Rotella T6 and the T4 conventional oil are both well below 100ppm of molybdenum and both are JASO MA & MA2 tested however the Rotella T5 is significantly also below 100ppm (like 1ppm molybdenum), but is NOT JASO MA tested but has a JASO DH-2 rating for sulfur! This is to say I have no proof that a level below 100ppm molybdenum is a must or that a level over 150ppm molybdenum is an absolute no-go area, rather it is just my personal preference. Regards,
 
At 75 what'd you experience? Slippage on acceleration or just a slow or fast increase in RPM's. How did it show up?

I'd be cruising at 75mph usually with cruise control, and I'd get a brief increase in RPMs along with a little lurching or hesitation feel on the bike. It would only happen if the bike was hot from riding over an hour or more.
Oh and it was considerably more than 10K miles on the oil. I'm more than a bit embarrassed to admit it but it was probably closer to 14K or 15K. I was putting a lot of miles on in a short period of time and wasn't really keeping track of my mileage.
 
I'd be cruising at 75mph usually with cruise control, and I'd get a brief increase in RPMs along with a little lurching or hesitation feel on the bike. It would only happen if the bike was hot from riding over an hour or more.
Oh and it was considerably more than 10K miles on the oil. I'm more than a bit embarrassed to admit it but it was probably closer to 14K or 15K. I was putting a lot of miles on in a short period of time and wasn't really keeping track of my mileage.

Thank you for articulating the symptoms you experienced. Hoping it was only caused by your oversight and solved by your fresh oil change. Not many will confess to their inattentions and the results for the benefit of others. It's a bit perplexing that the extended oil change would cause the clutch slippage but it apparently did. Just a side note. Many years ago my boss "never" changed the motor oil in his personal company pickup truck or his wife's T-bird. He only changed the filter and added oil. After approx 100K miles he traded in both vehicles for new ones and continued the same practice. As for the company's trucks, they all got regular oil/filter changes along with other services on a regular basis. My boss told me, that oil never wears out, it only gets dirty. Go figure?
 
Speaking of oil change, when I purchased my used 2016 RTS SE6 the people gave me a new, in the box HiFLO filter 556. Because it was old and hadn't been in a wrapper, just the box I called Hiflo to ask if it was OK to use the filter. The tech ask the P/N and he said that the 556 is for a 998 engine and they (Hiflo) have not developed a filter yet for the 1330. I am confused as all heck.
BTW I also generally use Rotella T6 but the PO gave me 6 qts of Amsoil.
 
BTW I also generally use Rotella T6 but the PO gave me 6 qts of Amsoil. Hey, it's good stuff but only use five of them.

(Hiflo) have not developed a filter yet for the 1330. I am confused as all heck. Yea, I'm confused too.
 
BTW I also generally use Rotella T6 but the PO gave me 6 qts of Amsoil. Hey, it's good stuff but only use five of them.

(Hiflo) have not developed a filter yet for the 1330. I am confused as all heck. Yea, I'm confused too.

This is what the tech at Hiflo told me yesterday. Also, their website doesn't provide a filter for at least the 2016 RTS SE6.p ok
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top