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Oil Change question

chillirider

New member
If I went to the dealer and bought everything I need for an oil change
Filter
O-ring
Oil resevoir copper washer
Engine oil drain plug gasket
Oil

Can anyone give me a ball park figure of about how much it costs. Thanks!!
 
If I went to the dealer and bought everything I need for an oil change
Filter
O-ring
Oil resevoir copper washer
Engine oil drain plug gasket
Oil

Can anyone give me a ball park figure of about how much it costs. Thanks!!

Ball park figure 410' to center field :joke:
All kidding aside about 75/80 dollars , But I'm sure somebody will post they get it cheaper, and you DON'T need all that stuff[O ring washer gasket]
 
This thread may help.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17375

Hope it does, cheers and good luck with your oil change!
Cheers from Newfoundland.





UPDATE: All parts you need to complete your own oil change, if order parts from your local Dealer:

Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Oil Filter: 420956745
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640
Strainer Oring: 709000218 (yes, same part as dipstick oring)
plus oil of course (293600121).
 
I don't think you are going get oil included in that $ 75-$80 Unless it's barrel oil. :yikes: I just my stuff from KRB(Ken). Good price and great service.:thumbup:
 
Send a Private Message to Ken (KRB1945). He has everything you need, minus the oil, for $17.62 shipped. I have ordered from him a few times already, and have received great service with fast shipping.

I can pretty much guarantee your dealer will not be able to meet this price. ;)
 
Send a Private Message to Ken (KRB1945). He has everything you need, minus the oil, for $17.62 shipped. I have ordered from him a few times already, and have received great service with fast shipping.

I can pretty much guarantee your dealer will not be able to meet this price. ;)
\
Ken has Great prices . You will save several $$ or more compared to dealer Prices.nojoke
 
Just A Question

What do we need to do worse.

1. Save a few bucks on our oil change items

or

2. Spend a couple of extra bucks on our oil change items to help keep our dealer in business.

:dontknow:

Luckily for me, my dealer is worthy of a little help. I know that there are others out there that are not.
 
What do we need to do worse.

1. Save a few bucks on our oil change items

or

2. Spend a couple of extra bucks on our oil change items to help keep our dealer in business.

:dontknow:

Luckily for me, my dealer is worthy of a little help. I know that there are others out there that are not.

I would love to support my dealer, but the fact I have to ryde over 2 hours to pick up the parts does not really make it worth my while unless I am already there for something else.

I don't know about others, but my not buying oil change parts is not what caused my dealer to go under. It was a decision made by their corporate headquarters to no longer carry metrics and switch to Harley only dealerships. :dontknow:

Also, Ken just happens to be a Disabled American Veteran that has found a service he can offer to all SpyderLovers and I feel very strongly about supporting his effort as well. :thumbup:
 
A good decent oil is about $10-$12 a qt. plus filter stuff bringing you to about $70. Them o-rings can be reused so I don't change them unless they are damaged. Not gonna pass an oppertunity for extra 200 beans in my pocket anyday.
 
UPDATE: All parts you need to complete your own oil change, if order parts from your local Dealer:

Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Oil Filter: 420956745
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640
Strainer Oring: 709000218 (yes, same part as dipstick oring)
plus oil of course (293600121).

This is the first time I've seen someone mention changing the dipstick O-ring. I think that's really not an issue unless it broke or was missing.
 
Dealer oil changes

my dealer did first two oil changes, I just did my own with parts from
Ken. Was shocked to find the oil plugs almost rounded out and had to use
extra force just to loosen them. Book says 15 fps, dealer mechanic went
nuts with force, I will do my own changes after I buy two new plugs,
 
my dealer did first two oil changes, I just did my own with parts from
Ken. Was shocked to find the oil plugs almost rounded out and had to use
extra force just to loosen them. Book says 15 fps, dealer mechanic went
nuts with force, I will do my own changes after I buy two new plugs,

That is a good point to keep in mind as well. The proper size allen wrench must be used in order to keep from rounding them out. They are also somewhat soft, so do not overtighten them.

Another note is the little allen head screws that hold the oil filter cap on are not very strong at all. A 1/2" drive ratchet is not the recommended tool for use with tightening these bolts. The weight of the ratchet is enough to surpass the torque spec without the screw feeling tight, and then it snaps in half. Luckily I had enough sticking out of the engine block that I could remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers, and no damage was done to anything else. I bought 2 new ones at the hardware store for 86 cents a piece. I had to travel to 3 different stores before finding the right size, so it also cost a lot of my time and fuel as well. To make matters worse, the one I broke off was on my wife's Spyder. :opps:
 
my dealer did first two oil changes, I just did my own with parts from
Ken. Was shocked to find the oil plugs almost rounded out and had to use
extra force just to loosen them. Book says 15 fps, dealer mechanic went
nuts with force, I will do my own changes after I buy two new plugs,
Every time I hear a rounded off plug from dealers I imagine them using an air wrench to tighten them suckers. :roflblack:

That is a good point to keep in mind as well. The proper size allen wrench must be used in order to keep from rounding them out. They are also somewhat soft, so do not overtighten them.

Another note is the little allen head screws that hold the oil filter cap on are not very strong at all. A 1/2" drive ratchet is not the recommended tool for use with tightening these bolts. The weight of the ratchet is enough to surpass the torque spec without the screw feeling tight, and then it snaps in half. Luckily I had enough sticking out of the engine block that I could remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers, and no damage was done to anything else. I bought 2 new ones at the hardware store for 86 cents a piece. I had to travel to 3 different stores before finding the right size, so it also cost a lot of my time and fuel as well. To make matters worse, the one I broke off was on my wife's Spyder. :opps:
I tighten the fiter screws with a screw driver fitted with correct size allen head. I think one has to be very careful with any kind of ratchet to prevent over tighten.
 
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Send a Private Message to Ken (KRB1945). He has everything you need, minus the oil, for $17.62 shipped. I have ordered from him a few times already, and have received great service with fast shipping.

I can pretty much guarantee your dealer will not be able to meet this price. ;)

Yup, got the kit from Ken. So you have $17.62 plus the cost of whatever oil you decide to use. You can figure between $9.00-$12.00 per liter and you may take anywhere from 4-5 liters. My spyder took 4 full liters when I did my change. So you should be able to change your own oil from around $55-$75 if you replace everything new. That is why I don't complain if I have to pay about $100 or slightly less at the dealer. You see, after having done this myself, this job is a pain in the butt. But I am sure next time around I will still do it myself again. Besides, it will get easier as I get better at it.
 
That is why I don't complain if I have to pay about $100 or slightly less at the dealer.

I wish my dealer would do it for $100. They charge for 2 hrs of labor @ $89 per hr. plus oil & parts, puts them well over $200. Needless to say I do my own oil changes.
 
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