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OIL CHANGE INFO WANTED

Motorcycledave

Motorcycledave

Active member
WELL....HOWDY
Hey Dave here with a question about oil, I find the price the dealers charge to do a simple
oil change is almost bordering on theft.... so for way over 30 years I have done all my own
service stuff on my ST1100, GoldWings, Harleys and such in all I have used Castrol GTX
or Amsol Synthetic oil, I decided to do the same with my 2008 GS so I picked up the filters
and such from my local dealer along with the oil they have at $14.00 + per quart is
BRP XPS Synthetic blend it does NOT say the weight of the oil just Summer Grade ????
gee that tells us nothing, it is most likely a 5/20 or 5/30 I am guessing.
So for all you service minded people out there do you see anything wrong with Castrol, Amsoil,
or any other full synthetic or blend? there are many others out there.
Many years ago I was told at SEMA and by my Amsoil dealer that the oil does not ware out just
gets dirty so I tried their test to see if they were correct, one of our service trucks a 1991 Ford
F350 1 ton with a 460 in it has NEVER had an oil change and always had Amsoil in it.
Every 3500 miles since new it has had the oil filter removed and replaced with a new filter and
1 quart of new Amsoil added the oil is always clean we have had it tested and it is up to snuff
the truck has as of today 256308.2 on the same engine it runs just fine.
We have also done this with another truck using Castrol GTX.
so all you oil guys what say you?
Should I use Castrol, Amsoil ?????
Thanks
Dave
 
Did you say OIL

BRP recommends 5w/40 (consult the OM for specifics). Amsoil offers a full synthetic 10w/40... most commonly used by those who use Amsoil. There are a ton of oil threads you can sift through.
 
THEFT...........???? :agree:
but try getting an oil/filter change for a 2010 Jaguar FX.... $277 USD..... :gaah: :yikes: :lecturef_smilie: no kidding.... so i sold my Cat... i'll stick with my SPYD3R & TUNDRA....
 
Motorcycledave said:
WELL....HOWDY
Hey Dave here with a question about oil, I find the price the dealers charge to do a simple
oil change is almost bordering on theft.... so for way over 30 years I have done all my own
service stuff on my ST1100, GoldWings, Harleys and such in all I have used Castrol GTX
or Amsol Synthetic oil, I decided to do the same with my 2008 GS so I picked up the filters
and such from my local dealer along with the oil they have at $14.00 + per quart is
BRP XPS Synthetic blend it does NOT say the weight of the oil just Summer Grade ????
gee that tells us nothing, it is most likely a 5/20 or 5/30 I am guessing.
So for all you service minded people out there do you see anything wrong with Castrol, Amsoil,
or any other full synthetic or blend? there are many others out there.
Many years ago I was told at SEMA and by my Amsoil dealer that the oil does not ware out just
gets dirty so I tried their test to see if they were correct, one of our service trucks a 1991 Ford
F350 1 ton with a 460 in it has NEVER had an oil change and always had Amsoil in it.
Every 3500 miles since new it has had the oil filter removed and replaced with a new filter and
1 quart of new Amsoil added the oil is always clean we have had it tested and it is up to snuff
the truck has as of today 256308.2 on the same engine it runs just fine.
We have also done this with another truck using Castrol GTX.
so all you oil guys what say you?
Should I use Castrol, Amsoil ?????
Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...
check with Bajaron-(site sponsor) on the amsoil. He sells it. I would return the oil to the dealer you got it from as that is hwy robbery. Quarts/gallon Jug on Amazon/Ebay can be had for a lot better price
 
I got my filter kits and Amsoil from Baja Ron. His kits supply everything you need (o-ring, washers, etc).

Did my own 4000 mile oil change myself. Not hard at all. I suggest having a lift though as it makes it much easier.

Bob

P.S. Love the Amsoil! Really quite down the top end lifter noise that I had using BRP oil.
 
Last edited:
Spec's

As long as you meet the recommended spec's in the owners manual you will be fine. Many use the amsoil as well as other brands. I order the oil change kits off ebay at around 56.00 with filter orings and crush washers and 5 qts of xps blend. A bit more for the se models. :thumbup:
 
Unless things have changed

you should use "motorcycle" oil. There are polymers in motorcycle blends to allow for the additional pounding by the transmission.
 
Hi Bob
I didn't know Baja Ron had the change kits... I buy the Amsoil by the case here local already
Thanks
Dave

finless said:
I got my filter kits and Amsoil from Baja Ron. His kits supply everything you need (o-ring, washers, etc).

Did my own 4000 mile oil change myself. Not hard at all. I suggest having a lift though as it makes it much easier.

Bob

P.S. Love the Amsoil! Really quite down the top end lifter noise that I had using BRP oil.
Click to expand...
 
Dave,
I'm a big fan of the BRP kits with the oil and filter. They can be had online for @$55. We run them in our supercharged seadoo skis that turn about 9k rpms for extended periods of time and put out around 300hp In a marine environment.
If it holds up and works in that environment its surely going to work fine in the spyder.
Many have run various oils with varying levels of success, but never any oil related issues with the BRP spec oil.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
 
Since I sell Amsoil products at my actual cost, price varies depending on destination.

For the Spyder it usually runs around $11+ per quart for 5 quarts. And about $1.50 per quart less for a case of 12 quarts ($10+ per quart). Delivery is included. One thing people forget to factor in is the tax they are paying for oil.

I now have aftermarket, HiFlo Extended transmission filters for the same price as the original transmission filters. And I also have the OEM BRP extended transmission filters if you prefer them. I don't have the Extended HiFlo trans filters listed on my Banner Ad Page yet but I've got them in stock.
 
BajaRon said:
Since I sell Amsoil products at my actual cost, price varies depending on destination.

For the Spyder it usually runs around $11+ per quart for 5 quarts. And about $1.50 per quart less for a case of 12 quarts ($10+ per quart). Delivery is included. One thing people forget to factor in is the tax they are paying for oil.

I now have aftermarket, HiFlo Extended transmission filters for the same price as the original transmission filters. And I also have the OEM BRP extended transmission filters if you prefer them. I don't have the Extended HiFlo trans filters listed on my Banner Ad Page yet but I've got them in stock.
Click to expand...

Any idea on aftermarket filter for '14?
 
Motorcycledave said:
Many years ago I was told at SEMA and by my Amsoil dealer that the oil does not ware out just
gets dirty so I tried their test to see if they were correct,
Click to expand...
Dirty, plus contaminated, but not worn out. Trucking fleets and many companies with forklifts, etc., change oil strictly by oil analysis. They take a sample periodically and when the contaminants reach a certain threshold, they change it. Oil analysis also lets you know if you're getting excessive wear inside the engine. If you start to see metal from bearings, cylinder walls, and pistons in the oil, you know it's time to overhaul the engine.

For the average user, like us, mileage is about the most economical way to decide when to change. I go with the extended intervals as recommended by Amsoil. For cars they have a 7500 mile oil which they came out with to placate mfr's warranty restrictions. I had a 1990 Acura one time where they listed the oil change interval at 15,000 miles in the maintenance schedule. I changed the oil in my 2005 Goldwing around 8000 miles. I used Amsoil 10W-40 Motorcycle oil all the time.
 
You are correct in that the oil itself does not wear out. However, the additive package gets exhausted. Part of the additive package is what creates a multi-viscosity oil. Take a 5W-40 oil. It begins with a base oil, usually something in a 30 weight range. Then they add molecules that expand when they get hot and contract when they get cold. As time goes on, these molecules get fragmented so that the oil, on analysis shows up as a lower weight oil. This is commonly referred to as shearing, but it's not the oil molecules but rather the multi-viscosity component that gets sheared.

The other major component of today's oil is a package of acid neutralizers. New oil will have a total base number somewhere in the 6-12 range, usually. As an engine is run, water and nitrates and sulfates will get past the compression rings and result in nitric and sulfuric acids in the oil. The TBN additives will neutralize those acids. As they do so, the remaining TBN drops. Depending on who you read, the experts will recommend that the oil be changed when the TBN drops to 30-33% of the original value or to an absolute TBN of 2. While most synthetic oils begin with a TBN around 8, most Amsoil oils begin with a TBN of about 12. This is one reason Amsoil oils can go longer.

The hardest trips on oil are those of 10 miles or less. That's because the oil doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the water of combustion that has accumulated in the crankcase. There is a used oil analysis on Bob Is The Oil Guy from a woman who drove her car a mile to work in the morning and a mile back home at night. The oil was Amsoil. After 3,000 miles, the TBN was less than 1. The oil was absolutely exhausted. It wasn't the fault of Amsoil, but rather the lady's driving habits.

Many newer vehicles calculate the lifetime of the oil for you. Because the on-board computers are constantly monitoring all operating parameters of the engine, they know what effect you're having on the oil from minute to minute. So, a person who takes lots of short trips may be told by the computer to change their oil after a few thousand miles, while someone who makes mostly long trips, may not hit the exhaustion point until 10,000 miles or more.
 
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