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OEM tires improved?

dbaucum

Member
After the original rear tire on my RT only lasted 6k miles, I started using car tires. It's a pain because many dealers will not install car tires, and I don't want to worry with taking the wheel off myself. Have the OEM tires improved to the point we can consider them again, or do dealers offer a better alternative?
 
OEM Tires

SORRY, NO change. Kenda LOVES to make $$$. The CAR Tire is the better way to RYDE . :lecturef_smilie:
 
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Any tire manufactured after 2814 (28th week of 2014, at the end of the DOT string of numbers on the tire) is a harder compound than ones made before that date. The harder compound MAY give you longer life depending on how you ride. My first two tires, the soft compound lasted only around 7K while my first tire with the harder compound gave me over 11K. My second harder compound tire is approaching paws up at only 8.6K but that tire has 5,500+ miles of interstate travel at high speed. I'm just about finished researching a dealer not too far away that will install a car tire for me.
 
They did....

Not many gave them a second chance but they did change the compound back to the original. They do last longer now but it still depends on where, when, what and how you ryde. I got on average 16,000 miles on the Kendas and am currently on a Arachnid which I will not know for some time. Have about 7,000 on it now and it looks like I am about half or less to the wear limit. Being a mechanical machine there will be no studies as to the effects of using the car tires and the issues the spyders are having but I will continue on the recommended tires. :thumbup:
 
The OEM tires are overpriced and of low (IMO) quality control. However, if you get a good set they are fine (once you get past the price and the low longevity). But if you get a bad one, it can be a real pain.

Interestingly, of all the posts I've seen about bad tires over the years. I've yet to see one about a bad car tire. Maybe I missed them.

I have seen a few posts where the OP was not thrilled with traction. Especially in wet (that's where you need to do your research). But nothing about the major build issues encountered with way too many Kenda's.

Get the right tire to the right installer and you'll get a far superior product for less money.
 
NEW TYPE KENDA

The OEM tires are overpriced and of low (IMO) quality control. However, if you get a good set they are fine (once you get past the price and the low longevity). But if you get a bad one, it can be a real pain.

Interestingly, of all the posts I've seen about bad tires over the years. I've yet to see one about a bad car tire. Maybe I missed them.

I have seen a few posts where the OP was not thrilled with traction. Especially in wet (that's where you need to do your research). But nothing about the major build issues encountered with way too many Kenda's.

Get the right tire to the right installer and you'll get a far superior product for less money.
:agree: with Ron ..... and would add that I believe Kenda changed the rubber compound ....But NOT the way they are constructed ... They are still made with less than Half the Plies that car tire are made with ....... Ask your self this .... Would you rather have a tire that is at or near it's maximum weight load (ie the Kenda's ) .....or a tire ( ie car type ) that can hold three times the weight load exerted by your Spyder ........ Another way of looking at is an " S " rated tire vs. " V " rated one, me I'd rather you the tire that was tested at 160+MPH vs 108mph ......... Mike :thumbup:
 
I always felt that the Kendas handled okay, road quietly, and gave a decently smooth ride... :thumbup:
But when you figure in the cost, and short tread-life: there ARE better alternatives out there... nojoke
 
:agree: with Ron ..... and would add that I believe Kenda changed the rubber compound ....But NOT the way they are constructed ... They are still made with less than Half the Plies that car tire are made with ....... Ask your self this .... Would you rather have a tire that is at or near it's maximum weight load (ie the Kenda's ) .....or a tire ( ie car type ) that can hold three times the weight load exerted by your Spyder ........ Another way of looking at is an " S " rated tire vs. " V " rated one, me I'd rather you the tire that was tested at 160+MPH vs 108mph ......... Mike :thumbup:

What you're saying makes sense, but I wonder if the Kendas were designed that way in order to improve the ride (and of course to save money!). Extra plies and extra weight capacity should make the sidewall flex less, especially on a vehicle as light as the Spyder. Less flex would lead to better handling and at least theoretically, a harsher ride. I know that switching from all-season tires to ultra-performance summer tires on a car has that effect. The rear wheel of the Spyder is right under the passenger, so maybe they deemed the ride quality to be most important. That might have been BRP's purpose in specifying these tires.
 
What you're saying makes sense, but I wonder if the Kendas were designed that way in order to improve the ride (and of course to save money!). Extra plies and extra weight capacity should make the sidewall flex less, especially on a vehicle as light as the Spyder. Less flex would lead to better handling and at least theoretically, a harsher ride. I know that switching from all-season tires to ultra-performance summer tires on a car has that effect. The rear wheel of the Spyder is right under the passenger, so maybe they deemed the ride quality to be most important. That might have been BRP's purpose in specifying these tires.

I was told by a very credible source that Kenda was THE ONLY MANUFACTURER to bid on the Spyder tires.
 
They got your questions answered. The early 2014 came with "softer" rubber compound. My first tire lasted 8,900 miles. The next is 15K and still going. Most of the rear tires I have had got 15K or better.

Most dealers that balk at installing non-OEM tires claim safety issues. I do not believe there are any safety issues with using car tires if you desire.

My problem, I don't want any non-spyder mechanic screwing up the bike with tire removal and re-installation. :thumbup:
 
I think they have improved, not saying they are worth the price, but I got 19000 on my original Kenda on the F3L. The dealer put a Kumho on as the replacement, so I will have to compare over time.
 
Catch 22

For me, none of my local motorcycle dealers (BRP shops) will mount car tires, and none of the auto places (discount tire, big-O) want to work on the rear Spyder wheel. I don't have the tools/desire to pull the rear tire myself. So.. any of you run Kenda (or BRP approved) tires in the back and car tires in front?

Also, going from a 2ply to a 4ply, do you run lower pressures to reduce the harshness?
 
NON-MATCHING TIRES

For me, none of my local motorcycle dealers (BRP shops) will mount car tires, and none of the auto places (discount tire, big-O) want to work on the rear Spyder wheel. I don't have the tools/desire to pull the rear tire myself. So.. any of you run Kenda (or BRP approved) tires in the back and car tires in front?

Also, going from a 2ply to a 4ply, do you run lower pressures to reduce the harshness?
There are ...ZERO .. issues as far as a Kenda rear and car tire fronts other than the Kenda is the weaker tire ....your Spyder will handle OK ..... and I have recommended lower tire pressures if you run Car tires either front, rear or both ends ..... a four ply tire doesn't need a lot of Air pressure to support it ........... I accidently let my Michelin Hydro-edge rear tire get down to 6 psi ...... and the Rim still wasn't hitting the ground ........ Mike :thumbup:
 
Tires

What you're saying makes sense, but I wonder if the Kendas were designed that way in order to improve the ride (and of course to save money!). Extra plies and extra weight capacity should make the sidewall flex less, especially on a vehicle as light as the Spyder. Less flex would lead to better handling and at least theoretically, a harsher ride. I know that switching from all-season tires to ultra-performance summer tires on a car has that effect. The rear wheel of the Spyder is right under the passenger, so maybe they deemed the ride quality to be most important. That might have been BRP's purpose in specifying these tires.
Peter Aawen and I have been recommending tires pressures for the rear ( when using a car tire ) to be 17-18 psi max..... whether one or two up riding .........The fact is the Kenda tire would be DANGEROUS at that psi, the sidewalls are thin and weak compared to an auto tire..... But with 18 psi in an auto tire you will still get a nice ride but much safer .......... Mike :thumbup:
 
Ask your dealer if he'll install a non-OEM tire, if you're willing to sign a waiver, and if you supply the tire. Some do.

I wish BRP would institute a blanket policy that allows dealers to do this. The crappy Kendas are the biggest source of heartburn among Spyder riders.
 
I always felt that the Kendas handled okay, road quietly, and gave a decently smooth ride... :thumbup:
But when you figure in the cost, and short tread-life: there ARE better alternatives out there... nojoke
Better alternatives are not alternatives when the dealer is the only outfit willing to do the install.
 
Ask your dealer if he'll install a non-OEM tire, if you're willing to sign a waiver, and if you supply the tire. Some do.

I wish BRP would institute a blanket policy that allows dealers to do this. The crappy Kendas are the biggest source of heartburn among Spyder riders.
Why would BRP want to do that?
 
Car Tire Install

Just wondering how many Bike Dealers are willing to DO the install. If you had a dealer install your tires Please GIVE a Big Shout OUT. :thumbup:
 
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