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Noob experiencing front end wobble.

P

Pappazippy

New member
Hello to all! First off I'm definitely a new rider, I picked up a nice 2010 Spyder RTS a couple weeks back and put on about 70 miles so far. I have read hundreds of posts on how to ryde my new toy. Thank you, thank you! The posts were exactly what I needed. I think my grips may have permanent finger marks from first two rides, but I learned to relax and trust the machine. I do have two questions though. 1. When slowing down for a stop using either engine braking or the regular brakes, I get a front end wobble. At first I tried to compensate but that just made it worse. So now I just let it wobble. It isn't bad just annoying, should I be concerned? 2. Are there any problems or known issues with the 2010 RTS's I need to know about? The hardest part, for me, is to stop giggling like a schoolgirl after every ride :clap:.
 
:welcome: The mechanical people will answer your question. I have a 2010 RT'S and do not experience any wobble when the brakes are applied. Something is not right--they will come. :thumbup:
 
Thanks

I'm an experienced mechanic worked on everything from jet airplanes, cars, diesel busses and everything I'm between. I've given my spyder a good check out and all the front components are tight and no play at all. My guess is it may have a slight alignment problem. I'm going to do a crude toe check to see if anything catches my eye. Granted it just may be me or the road. I did a drive through at a McDonalds for a quick snack and the cashier just stared at me. Quite amusing. :ohyea:
 
Front end wobble upon heavy loading is not normal for for the Spyder, nor is it typically alignment related...although I suppose it could happen if the toe-in was way off. The most likely cause would be worn or damaged suspension components, but you said you have checked. Just for the record, the areas of concern to be inspected would be the ball joints, tie-rod ends, a-arm bushings, and the shock bushings. I suspect you may be noticing the ABS distributed braking trying to maintain a straight stop, then you may instinctively be trying to compensate, making the Spyder VCM try even harder.This effect wouldn't really be a wobble, but it could induce wandering and a crooked stop. If it does the same on a slow stop, I'd look a lot harder for suspension problems. BTW, check front tire pressures to assure they are the same, and run pressures in the neighborhood of 17-18 up front for a start. That seems to be the most stable and comfortable for most 2010-2012 RT owners.
 
THE WOBBLE ? ? ?

Pappazippy said:
Hello to all! First off I'm definitely a new rider, I picked up a nice 2010 Spyder RTS a couple weeks back and put on about 70 miles so far. I have read hundreds of posts on how to ryde my new toy. Thank you, thank you! The posts were exactly what I needed. I think my grips may have permanent finger marks from first two rides, but I learned to relax and trust the machine. I do have two questions though. 1. When slowing down for a stop using either engine braking or the regular brakes, I get a front end wobble. At first I tried to compensate but that just made it worse. So now I just let it wobble. It isn't bad just annoying, should I be concerned? 2. Are there any problems or known issues with the 2010 RTS's I need to know about? The hardest part, for me, is to stop giggling like a schoolgirl after every ride :clap:.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking you test drove it ....Right....and you didn't notice anything then ? ? ?.....Did you buy from a Dealer ?????.....Mike :thumbup:......and PS trust Scotty
 
Could be ABS. That explanation would fit because I was out on farm roads and they can be like washboards sometimes. I'll try a few well maintained roads and do some panic stops and other variations. Probably just me overreacting. I'll also check the tire pressures. I just had a new rear tire installed and pressure is in spec. A bit of a pain to get to though. But I didn't check the front tires. Looks like I need to grab my gauge...
 
Yes, Blueknight911, I bought it from a dealer. I did a test ride but to tell you the truth I was terrified! The last time I rode (6 years ago) on a Honda Goldwing I had an accident that required two surgeries and my shattered jaw to be wired shut for 6 weeks. But I had I to ride again so I heard the Spyder calling. I'm still getting the skills and I am very analytical with everything and just may be bad memories causing me to be overreacting.
 
There was a lot of talk just a short time ago about vibration on deceleration around 45 MPH, if memory serves me right. Came down to sidewall separation.??
 
Welcome..!!

to the roadster world and the place to help you with all your needs. As you have already seen fast and accurate responses as soon as you ask. Don't panic or over analyze things. Give yourself time to get the hang of things 300 to 1000 miles...:thumbup:
 
Front wobble...?

NancysToy said:
Front end wobble upon heavy loading is not normal for for the Spyder, nor is it typically alignment related...although I suppose it could happen if the toe-in was way off. The most likely cause would be worn or damaged suspension components, but you said you have checked. Just for the record, the areas of concern to be inspected would be the ball joints, tie-rod ends, a-arm bushings, and the shock bushings. I suspect you may be noticing the ABS distributed braking trying to maintain a straight stop, then you may instinctively be trying to compensate, making the Spyder VCM try even harder.This effect wouldn't really be a wobble, but it could induce wandering and a crooked stop. If it does the same on a slow stop, I'd look a lot harder for suspension problems. BTW, check front tire pressures to assure they are the same, and run pressures in the neighborhood of 17-18 up front for a start. That seems to be the most stable and comfortable for most 2010-2012 RT owners.
Click to expand...

Don't know if this applies to your Spyder but warped front rotors on a car can give you a wobble!

UncleDave
 
Farm roads?

Be careful about riding off-pavement. Spyders are belt driven and not meant for gravely or dirt roads because you don't want dirt or stones, etc getting between the belt and sprocket. The owner's manual has a warning about this too.
 
Thanks Navy Warrant, but here in California where I live all the roads (for the most part) are paved. Even though they are paved the asphalt gets softer in the heat of summer and the tractor tread leaves nice ripples and bumps all over. But you are right to be cautious because there are rocks sometimes that fall off equipment onto the paved roads. I was planning on getting a shield for my belt anyway just for piece of mind.
 
UNCLEDAVE said:
Don't know if this applies to your Spyder but warped front rotors on a car can give you a wobble!

UncleDave
Click to expand...

:agree: While the vibration caused by a warped rotor may not technically be a wobble, it can certainly feel like one. It should be pretty easy to check for a warped rotor if you have any way to jack it up and get the front wheels off the ground. Cotton
 
Rotors?

The rotors wouldn't be the problem since his wobble also occurs with just engine braking.

But that prompts this newbie question from me: Does anyone ever turn the Spyder rotors like is done on cars during pad replacement? I don't think I've ever seen this discussed. :dontknow:

Are the rotors even thick enough to allow resurfacing?
 
Wobble found! I purchased a digital tire pressure gauge because my standard stick gauge just isn't easy to read when checking tire pressures. Using the new gauge allowed me to discover that my front tires had unequal pressures: 17psi right vs 15psi left. I pressurized the right to match the left 17/17 psi. Wobble during braking is gone :clap:. The old gauge now lives in my trash bin. Again, thanks to all for giving their generous input. Absolutely awesome people on this site!
 
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