• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

No wunder the gas tanks get hot!

attachment.php
 
I see that they(dealer or BRP) still uses the foil/foam material that is flammable and cuts down on air flow around the gas tank. See below:
attachment.php


This makes the heat problem in the tank hotter. This is what works better. It's only 70 mil in thicknes, none flammable, and easy to work with.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PILLZG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


View attachment 77275


Actually there was no insulation there before That came from a wrecked Spyder they had sitting there and I asked them to put it on the plastic. Cap stays cool now so does the seat. The rest is 1mil DEI 1500 deg tape. Only flow it cuts down on is what heat is rising up above the tank. None on that side now.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
and it was fixed on my 09 RS too just by having the pipes ceramic coated by Jet Hot. I just don't understand why more owners haven't had this done. :bdh:

DSCF3164-M.jpg


Thats is what I'll be doing the winter. It's the only true way to deal with the heat
 
Actually there was no insulation there before That came from a wrecked Spyder they had sitting there and I asked them to put it on the plastic. Cap stays cool now so does the seat. The rest is 1mil DEI 1500 deg tape. Only flow it cuts down on is what heat is rising up above the tank. None on that side now.:thumbup:

Many thanks for the web site with various thermal wrap. I've bookmarked it for future use; every once in awhile I need some of this stuff and didn't know where to find it. Will certainly need it if I get a '13.
 
Dave,
Mike might have a good point here; does that extra thickness reduce airflow around the tank, and would a thinner insulation do the same job? :dontknow:
 
The rear cyl pipe curves just in front of the gas tank and then downward to the cat.....did you wrap that one also?

And where did you find the insulation you put on the tank?
Looks to be useful stuff.

Yes both pipes were wrapped with new aluminum heat shield, fabricated by Mark and master cylinder and brake cables covered with same shield as gas tank....shield was purchased from Amazon....$45 buck 1 sheet
resize2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dave,
Mike might have a good point here; does that extra thickness reduce airflow around the tank, and would a thinner insulation do the same job? :dontknow:

Bob the tank is wrapped with 1 mil DEI foil. The only thickness is on the plastic cover that goes around the top of the tank gas cap area and that was where I was trying to keep any heat from flowing too. And it works. The inside of all the Tupperware has the same foam insulation that is where I got it from a wrecked Spyder
 
Got it! :thumbup:
Since you've got the thermometer; have you been able to take temperature readings at the rear of the bike (Where the air is exiting the Tupperware), while it is in motion?
(I'm not sure what it would show; just curious...)
 
Last edited:
Got it! :thumbup:
Since you've got the termometer; have you been able to take temperature readings at the rear of the bike (Where the air is exiting the Tupperware), while it is in motion?
(I'm not sure what it would show; just curious...)
I am not a contortionist (but I know some girls who are WOW) so if you want to hang off while I am riding to get the flow numbers we could do that. :yikes:
 
At what temp will gas ignite in a closed container???
It probably won't. You need three things to ignite a fire, fuel, an ignition source, and air (oxygen). In a closed container the air would be displaced by gasoline vapors and there would not be enough to support combustion. The explosive or flammable limits of gasoline range from 1.4% to 7.6% gasoline vapor in air. Too little air and there is no fire, too much and there is also no fire, even with an adequate ignition source.
 
On the 13 model you need to worry about that vapor canister, full of gas vapors and melting by exhaust heat! That is one of the parts they wrap up with tin foil as their "fix".
 
Gas tank boiling

Working on my 2012 Spyder RT Limited I found that the pipes (both) are within a half inch of the front of the gas tank. The gas tank front only has two small heat shields. I wrapped the pipes and don't have much heat now. A friend took out his air box and replaced it with a round air cleaner. Now he can see the top of his engine as well as getting to the spark plug on the right side. He doesn't have oil leaking from the air box either. He notice that he don't have the strong gas smell at times anymore. Wrapping the pipes cuts a lot of the heat but will wrap the canister also. BRP should of done better heat shielding of the gas tank as well as the canister. RJ
 
MPG on your Spyder

I have a Spyder RT Limited 2012. I have found that I get 28 mpg to 30 mpg on my SE5 if I keep the rpm's 3,500 to 4,500 but best at 4,000 rpm's. At 4,500 rpm you are doing 60 mph, 5,000 you are doing 70 mph then young mpg starts going down. At 6,000 rpm you are doing 80 mph so start watching for a gas station lol. RJ
Try to keep your shifting at 5,000 rpm and that will also help with your mpg. RJ
 
Last edited:
Back
Top