No Start Spyder

[jmbiii]

Okay, 'dis is da story. Spyder won't start. 2008 GS SM5
Took a ride today, (roughly 75 miles round trip) did some Christmas shopping. Stopped and started the motor twice today.
Spyder ran super all day.
Pulled up in front of garage and shut motor down. Took purchases inside, opened garage door, got on Spyder to pull into garage.
1. Turned on key.
2. Waited 'til gauges did their thing.
3. Pushed mode button.
4. Pulled in clutch, pressed in starter button.
5. Clicking and whirring noise comes from motor area. Motor does not even think of turning over.
6. One final click and instruments go through start up sequence again. Display requests push of Mode button.
7. Repeat items 1 through 6 about five or six times with same result.:banghead:

I finally gave in and pushed Spyder into garage (uphill grade on driveway). I 'talked' to the Spyder while pushing.

Took the key out and did the walk around thing. Did steps 1 through 7 with same results.
Plugged in battery tender. Came inside, muttering to myself and sat down at computer.

Most likely ? Battery ? It may be the original. I haven't replaced it in the two years the Spyder has lived with me.
Don't know anything about how it was treated at it's earlier homes. Thoughts ? Suggestions ?

Joe

 

[GOZFST]

Check your battery connections first, if they are OK and you have a multi-meter put it on the battery and check no load voltage. It should be 12.4 or higher, then check it while you are trying to start it. Most likely you just lucked out and the battery died conveniently in your driveway. Good Luck

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BATTERY ISSUE

..IF that's the original battery you have been very, very lucky......Do you keep it on a " BATTERY MAINTAINER " ( not a charger , there is a difference ). If not you should....and also check your connections. If you don't have STAR washers on the bolts ...you should, because then they will always be tight......Mike :thumbup:

 

[jmbiii]

Yep, I keep it plugged into a "BatteryTender' while it's garaged.
I just looked at it a few minutes ago and the charge state LED was solid green.
So I thought I'd do steps 1 through 4 and see what happens.
What happened is steps 5 & 6. Led was red after.
I'm almost positive it's the OEM battery.
Gonna give it up for the night and if it does the same in the AM, Amazon will be contacted
and a "BatteryTender" lithium battery and lithium specific charger are going to be an early
Christmas present. To me.:yes:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yep, I keep it plugged into a "BatteryTender' while it's garaged.
I just looked at it a few minutes ago and the charge state LED was solid green.
So I thought I'd do steps 1 through 4 and see what happens.
What happened is steps 5 & 6. Led was red after.
I'm almost positive it's the OEM battery.
Gonna give it up for the night and if it does the same in the AM, Amazon will be contacted
and a "BatteryTender" lithium battery and lithium specific charger are going to be an early
Christmas present. To me.:yes:

Yeah, when the instruments go through their startup process again, it is most certainly voltage related. And since this might be the original battery, it has served you well.

But, not sure why you would be talking about replacing it with lithium. Your charging system on the bike is designed for a lead - acid AGM battery. The Yuasa YTX24HL would be what is specified.

 

[Vader]

Battery

I would agree..weak battery. Did you check it with a volt meter before hooking up charger?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

LITHIUM

Yeah, when the instruments go through their startup process again, it is most certainly voltage related. And since this might be the original battery, it has served you well.

But, not sure why you would be talking about replacing it with lithium. Your charging system on the bike is designed for a lead - acid AGM battery. The Yuasa YTX24HL would be what is specified.

:agree:.........And ,If you read up on Lithium batteries I think you will find that they are not the optimum for the Spyder. I recall getting this info here from some member who was very knowledgeable about them.....Yes they are much lighter, but your Spyder weighs 800 lbs wet... ( plus your weight )...so 12 lbs isn't much.....Weight saving can get ridiculous, heck only keep 4 gals. of gas in it and you save 14 lbs..........just a thought.......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

Try this..!!

I always do the jump start step. Clears the whole thing up. You can charge the battery and only get a surface charge indicating all is good till you hit the start button....instant drain. There are ways but once your battery dies on you (not idiot related lights left on radio playing etc) you will live with the fear of it happening again. Non manual slim chance of a push start...:banghead: go for the new one..check charging output and happy motoring. Oem is still your best bet, lighter smaller require box mods and they don't perform well on the V-twins....:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

If you've got to have a battery die; having it kick the bucket in your driveway is about the best way to have it happen... :thumbup:

 

[jtoro1]

Check your kill SWITCH you might have moved it by mistake

 

[jmbiii]

Well it was on charge all night. Checked it with multimeter - 12.9v. Monitored voltage while performing steps 1-6.
First go round voltage dropped to 12.1v; second go down to 11.6v; third it was 10 something.

Temps are going to be in the high 60's to low 70's for today and the weekend.

Headed out to find a new battery. Suggestions on best brand ?:dontknow: YUASA ? Interstate ?:shocked: Duracell ? "Briight Morning Star":roflblack: ?

Gotta ride.

 

[Bob Denman]

Personally; I'd stay with YUASA... it got you this far; didn't it? :thumbup:

 

[jtoro1]

Buy OEM # NOT bottle filled is your best bet you can get it online BS at the end of the part # is bottle filled do not use this

 

[jmbiii]

SHORT: Replaced battery, starts and runs fine. :yes:All I had to do is reset the clock.

LONG: Found a battery. 67 mile round trip to C'ville to get a Duracell ULTRA Platinum AGM, 330 cranking amps, 24 month free replacement warranty, Hecho en Estados Unidos. $113.00.

But, before I got it: I had to remove the old one for recycling. To get side panel off to access battery I had to remove: 1. sport rack to get to bolts to remove 2. Ultimate seat to get to bolts to remove 3. Givi bag mounts. Removed battery, it had a sticker on that said it was placed in service 5/2008. Seven and a half years life !

An hour and a half drive to get battery later, slid new Duracell in and it wouldn't go all the way in. :cus: Tabs in rear of battery holder would not spread 1/8 of an inch (3.175mm) to let the battery seat in the rack. It only needed to go another 3/4 of an inch (19.05mm).:banghead:

To get to the rear of the battery rack to bend the tabs up 1/8 inch (3.175mm) I had to remove 1. opposite side Givi mount 2. remainder of bolts holding the passenger grab rails. With the grab rails removed it was very easy to bend the battery rack tabs up 1/8 inch (3.175mm). Battery slid in; was hooked up; key was turned; mode button, starter button pressed and the engine fired right up!:clap:

Put every thing back together using the universal instruction "Installation is reverse of removal." Reset the clock. Too late to ride.

As Scarlet said, "After all, tomorrow is another day."

Joe

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: WHEW!!
:congrats: on getting it all done! :thumbup:

 

[hecoon]

I ride a lot over 130k on 2 spyders. I replace the battery every 3 years just to be sure it will crank. hasn't failed to start yet...fingers crossed