No Magic 4" Riser Install problem

[Questions]

I have been trying to install my new NMN 4" risers today. I keep running into problems--and now I need some help.

1. I had extreme trouble getting the left grip off. I have one of the early Premier editions. Maybe BRP used a lot of glue back then--I finally got the grip off, but a bunch of the inside of the grip is still on the bar... The right side was fine--it slid off in a few seconds using Windex, but the left side was virtually welded with glue to the bar. I took care of this, but be forwarned it may be a problem in some installations.

2. Now, I can't get the controls off. The bolts are ROCK solid. I can't budge them at all. I have looked at the installation instructions on SpyderLovers, but miraculously--everyone skips this step and goes right to cutting of the bars. (I am talking specifically about the bolts that hold the clutch to the bar)

I am stuck at this point. If I continue, I will strip the threads.

Has anyone had this problem? Any recommendations?

 

[Capt John]

Check out this video. Maybe it will help.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10991&highlight=risers+install

 

[retread]

First, unless you are changing grips, you didn't have to take the right side off, it's on the throttle sleeve and comes off with the assembly.
I'm not by my Spyder right now, but if I remember right, there are 2 bolts in each control module, they should come out with not much problem, then the modules split and you're good to go, but be careful on the left and pay attention to the reverse cable routing inside the module.
A stainless steel zip tie comes in handy taking off grips, slide it in and use it as a saw around the handlebar. Then windex the heck out of it and take it off.
PM me if you need more, or call Evan, he's better at it than I am.nojoke

john

 

[SPYDERPOPS]

I have installed 2 sets so far and I just went to my Spyder and I don't think I understand what nuts you are talking about on the controller.

Can you be more specific about these as mine only has machine thread torx screws.

Are you trying to take off the center cover where the ignition key is?

 

[Questions]

Bolts won't budge

I edited by initial message--I am talking about the clutch assembly. It has two "torx" bolts or screws. I can't get them to budge--and when I twist hard, it starts to strip the internal hex threading.

 

[Twodog185]

Whether you're using a ratchet or screwdriver with a driver tip, you can tap on the rachet/screwdriver as you put pressure to turn it. Acts like an impact wrench.

 

[Tom in NM]

it is basic . . . .

. . . . but, CLOCKWISE = screw on. COUNTERCLOCKWISE = screw off.

I am dyslexic and still have trouble with this. No insult to your capabilities intended. I wish I could offer more help, but I have an SE5.

The left grip on mine had a lot more adhesive than it needed, but my dealer did not use as much as yours did in assembling the Spyder. Mine went back on the risers with no problem. I saw someone else gave the tip to use some hairspray on the bar if it slips a little.

Tom

 

[Dragonrider]

FIRST, make sure you have the right size bit - not one that loosely fits. Then use a $10 impact driver (Shucks, or any auto parts store). It also helps to heat (carefully) the screws, to soften the thread loc ...

When you get them out. REPLACE them with new ones. You may have to get in there again.