No compression

[PMK]

Actually you can do aluminum, just a slightly different process with dye and a powder material.
Yes, I believe a diamond hone is all that can be used, and it is very thin and could require a trip to Millenium. I think the main problem is not knowing the extent of damage and putting a lot of labor and money into it and still having problems. To break a cam main takes some energy! If it were me I would inspect everything and replace as necessary and freshen the rest. But that's me! Years of racing and no time to do over leads me in that direction. I wish the OP the best outcome in his project.

Many people incorrectly believe that aluminum can be Magnafluxed. Magnaflux is a company name, associated with magnetic particle inspection, a process where a ferro magnetic item is magnetized and iron fillings, either dry or in a fluid suspension, and either visible in white light via the naked eye, or fluorescent requiring a black light to see indications.

Magnaflux, the company also produces the process you indicated known as liquid penetrant inspection. Liquid penetrant process can also be accomplished with products visible in white light, or Zyglo which requires a black light. Zyglo penetrant are available in various sensitivities and methods to remove residual penetrant. The application of the powder, done correctly enhances visibility. Incorrectly done it will mask indication.

A much better inspection method for non ferrous item, when the shape permits is eddy current inspection. Eddy current is able to detect subsurface defects and more.

Each method has limitations, and requires a qualified, and ideally trained person accomplishing the inspection.

 

[Sputter]

Many people incorrectly believe that aluminum can be Magnafluxed. Magnaflux is a company name, associated with magnetic particle inspection, a process where a ferro magnetic item is magnetized and iron fillings, either dry or in a fluid suspension, and either visible in white light via the naked eye, or fluorescent requiring a black light to see indications.

Magnaflux, the company also produces the process you indicated known as liquid penetrant inspection. Liquid penetrant process can also be accomplished with products visible in white light, or Zyglo which requires a black light. Zyglo penetrant are available in various sensitivities and methods to remove residual penetrant. The application of the powder, done correctly enhances visibility. Incorrectly done it will mask indication.

A much better inspection method for non ferrous item, when the shape permits is eddy current inspection. Eddy current is able to detect subsurface defects and more.

Each method has limitations, and requires a qualified, and ideally trained person accomplishing the inspection.

Sounds about right. It has been many years since I worked with the different alloys and penetrants. I have 95% of my engine machine work done by people that are professionals and I double check everything before assembly. I used to have access to quite a bit, but long ago. For our applications, most aluminum damage is likely in the combustion chamber and visible to the naked eye. The high stress items are the ones that worry me though.

 

[Lively]

NO CODES, NO LIMP MODE, IT RUNS!!

Bike is now running!!! Still smoking a bit out the tailpipe and from the outside of the pipe, gonna go for a 30 minute ride when i get a chance to try and burn it out. My only concern and this could be because i get paranoid, but the oil looks a little like it could have coolant. Brother in law disagreed. Oil level did seem to go up a bit though, coolant did go down but only about half an inch but i assume thats mainly because its filling all the air pockets. I will post a picture of the dipstick but idk if it will tell you much.

Im also thinking it could be some of the old bad oil/coolant trapped inside from when i did the oil change, if anything. But it ran great i believe, didnt ride it before so i couldnt tell you.

One other thing is, where is normal operating temp sit on these things. Mine seems to be one block above half, i took a picture but it came out blurry and didnt know till it cooled back off. Bike was ridden for only 5 minutes ranging from 20-60mph and then idled for another 3-5 minutes when i got that reading.

They still both have excellent compression.

 

[stevencovert]

NO CODES, NO LIMP MODE, IT RUNS!!

Bike is now running!!! Still smoking a bit out the tailpipe and from the outside of the pipe, gonna go for a 30 minute ride when i get a chance to try and burn it out. My only concern and this could be because i get paranoid, but the oil looks a little like it could have coolant. Brother in law disagreed. Oil level did seem to go up a bit though, coolant did go down but only about half an inch but i assume thats mainly because its filling all the air pockets. I will post a picture of the dipstick but idk if it will tell you much.

Im also thinking it could be some of the old bad oil/coolant trapped inside from when i did the oil change, if anything. But it ran great i believe, didnt ride it before so i couldnt tell you.

One other thing is, where is normal operating temp sit on these things. Mine seems to be one block above half, i took a picture but it came out blurry and didnt know till it cooled back off. Bike was ridden for only 5 minutes ranging from 20-60mph and then idled for another 3-5 minutes when i got that reading.

They still both have excellent compression.
View attachment 177704

Coolant dropping seems normal after what you have done. The oil, if checked cold will give an inaccurate reading. Check when bike is warmed up on a flat surface. Probably a good idea to change oil again in 500 miles or so to be sure any gunk or trapped garbage is flushed out. We admire your dedication! This has been a fun journey, especially when in the end it is a running Spyder!

 

[PMK]

I know you want to just ride. I hope you take the few minutes and flush the oil out of the exhaust. If you get it hot enough to carbonize on the small baffle holes, it will be very difficult to save the exhaust.

These bikes are too temperamental to sometimes even the smallest issues. Avoid creating a new problem.

You could even use Dawn dish soap flushed through the exhaust, but solvent would be better.

After rinsing the exhaust, go enjoy it.

Put no more than 100 miles on it, drain the oil through a funnel lined with a papertowel. Lay the towel out and inspect for metal. If minimal, do the same at 500 miles. If you capture the oil in a clean container, it can be reused. Even filter it again as you pour it back in. Metal in the oil will be a good indicator of the engines health.

 

[Freddy]

Or just look inside the oil filter pleats. Any material WILL show up there. Filters are cheap plus it's a lot quicker and easier.

Metal in the FILTER will be a BAD indicator of the engine's health. :cheers:

 

[PMK]

Or just look inside the oil filter. Any material WILL show up there. Filters are cheap plus it's a lot quicker and easier.

Metal in the FILTER will be a BAD indicator of the engine's health. :cheers:

Agree, but in this case, the filter element should be cut from the core and laid out flat for inspection. Or at a minimum, the filter should be washed in a clean plastic tub using clean mineral spirits or gasoline, then inspect the residue in the bottom of the plastic tub.

If the exhaust does not choke and the engine is not making metal, he should have a fun machine for short money and effort.

 

[Sputter]

Hoping for the best! Keep us posted!

 

[ByronM]

Someone mentioned the screen in the oil return line, make sure that you pull it apart and clean it before you ride it to much.

 

[blacklightning]

I am no mechanic, and have nothing to add to this. But I will say that I am amazed by your dedication and am hoping for the best. Please keep us updated, as this has been a very interesting read.

 

[Lively]

I know you want to just ride. I hope you take the few minutes and flush the oil out of the exhaust. If you get it hot enough to carbonize on the small baffle holes, it will be very difficult to save the exhaust.

These bikes are too temperamental to sometimes even the smallest issues. Avoid creating a new problem.

You could even use Dawn dish soap flushed through the exhaust, but solvent would be better.

After rinsing the exhaust, go enjoy it.

Put no more than 100 miles on it, drain the oil through a funnel lined with a papertowel. Lay the towel out and inspect for metal. If minimal, do the same at 500 miles. If you capture the oil in a clean container, it can be reused. Even filter it again as you pour it back in. Metal in the oil will be a good indicator of the engines health.

I planned on rechanging the oil or at leastr filtering it like you mentioned. I have cleaned out car exausts and whatnot by just running them i didnt know this would be any different but thanks for telling me. I will definitely go get some solvent then.

As for this screen, can anyone tell me its location exactly and what it looks like so i know what im looking for.

As for metal in the oil, i feel like i will find some of the remains from the no-longer existing problem, but it shouldnt be too much.

Did the oil on the towel look too light in color? however i red that since the oil level is higher than it should be that creates frothing which makes the bubbles as well.

Thank you everyone for the help, and i hope this helps someone else in the future! Not done yet but just wanted to give my thanks! (i hope im almost done though lmao)

 

[PMK]

I planned on rechanging the oil or at leastr filtering it like you mentioned. I have cleaned out car exausts and whatnot by just running them i didnt know this would be any different but thanks for telling me. I will definitely go get some solvent then.

As for this screen, can anyone tell me its location exactly and what it looks like so i know what im looking for.

As for metal in the oil, i feel like i will find some of the remains from the no-longer existing problem, but it shouldnt be too much.

Did the oil on the towel look too light in color? however i red that since the oil level is higher than it should be that creates frothing which makes the bubbles as well.

Thank you everyone for the help, and i hope this helps someone else in the future! Not done yet but just wanted to give my thanks! (i hope im almost done though lmao)

My concern with the exhaust is similar to what we see in two stroke exhausts. The oil / carbon builds up on the silencer baffle holes and restricts them over time. Flushing yours should be easy, and helps assure that as the oil is moved and burn, it does not turn to hard carbon, restricting the exhaust.

If the engine / gearbox is not making metal, you should be in good shape. The parts books will show the various suction screens. Typically they are large to lessen any clogging concerns. Make that a third step after the exhaust and draining / straining / inspecting the oil that is drained.

 

[Freddy]

The screen is attached to / part of the tank outlet fitting at the base of the tank where the hose goes to the engine. Remove the hose, unscrew the fitting from the tank an voila, there you have it.

 

[blacklightning]

Keep an eye out, as stock exhaust for that model should not be hard to find. You might be able to get one gifted to you from someone who has upgraded to an aftermarket system. Might be able to get it for shipping cost.

 

[krakum1967]

I have a stock exhaust off the 2012 Can Am RS-S. I would be happy to let you have it for shipping costs...my wife and I call get the quote together by the weekend, but I definitely have one on hand, and I am not going back to stock....I like my rides noisy. Let me know if it works for you, and I am happy to help.

And I also want to mention your dedication to this project is very admirable, and you did outstanding work IMHO. Thanks for sharing this journey with us, and thank you to all the experts providing resources and guidance on this, it really should be required reading for new owners. I know I learned a ton.

 

[Lively]

I have a stock exhaust off the 2012 Can Am RS-S. I would be happy to let you have it for shipping costs...my wife and I call get the quote together by the weekend, but I definitely have one on hand, and I am not going back to stock....I like my rides noisy. Let me know if it works for you, and I am happy to help.

And I also want to mention your dedication to this project is very admirable, and you did outstanding work IMHO. Thanks for sharing this journey with us, and thank you to all the experts providing resources and guidance on this, it really should be required reading for new owners. I know I learned a ton.

Get me the number if you dont mind and ill see IF i can. Id imagine shipping that thing might be expensive.

 

[Lively]

Where does all your bikes temps sit at? I mentioned mine seems to be a bar above half way. Is this normal?

 

[Sputter]

Where does all your bikes temps sit at? I mentioned mine seems to be a bar above half way. Is this normal?

Mine runs 1/2 but not necessarily a comparable since actual temperature may be different. Maybe borrow or if you have a temperature gun to check return hose? If the temperature stays at that point and doesn’t fluctuate is likely ok?

 

[Lively]

Update and concern: I cleaned or tried to clean the exhaust. still had a little smoke but didnt let it run too long because i am hearing something odd. When i pull on the throttle slowly i hear a hiccup as if its starved for air, but then after the hiccup the rpms jump back to where its supposed to go. It also backfired twice on me. LOUD POP (only one) and shuts off. I am low on fuel, but there is fuel. It is 91 octane. Any suggestions?

Also im also seeing some smoke (little) coming from the connections (where they connect to the muffler, the connections from the motor to pipes are good), maybe i have it too loose or too tight? Or perhaps the gaskets are no good anymore? thoughts?

 

[Peter Aawen]

If the fuel you have remaining in the tank has been sitting around for a month or more, then it sounds like it's time to top it up with some fresh fuel & give it a run!

Fuel that sits in an almost empty gas tank tends to collect condensate fairly quickly; and any temperature variations while it's sitting will make that condensate collection even worse AND tend to 'evaporate off' the most important bits of the fuel too! This is especially so for gas with ANY percentage of Ethanol in it.... and unless it was stated otherwise at the point of sale, there's a good chance that there's some Ethanol in most gas sold thru a bowser these days! :sour: So while it might look clean & smell sorta OK - hey, it might even let the engine run for a bit.... but gas that's been stored in a partially filled tank for anything more than about a month is no longer 'the good stuff' and is very likely to result in things much like those you've described! :shocked:

Top it off with fresh gas and give it a run, doesn't hafta be a really long run or hard ryding or anything like that, just aim for a reasonably gentle local ryde of maybe 30 minutes or so, but do try to give it a little bit of every thing except lugging along & try to keep the throttle varying somewhat rather than just sitting at a fixed setting/speed. You could even do a little circle around the place so you aren't ever too far from home, just make sure you've got fresh gas in there & that you run it for long enough to give everything enough chance to warm up fully. hyea:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

Ps: if you've had those exhaust connections apart, or even just moved them without fully disconecting them, and especially if you've had any oil &/or solvent inside the pipes &/or muffler, then that 'smoking from the joins' is quite a common thing on re-starting. It is usually just the contaminants introduced during the work you just did burning off, and the smoke'll usually go away in that 30 min test ryde mentioned above cos the contaminants have all been burnt out of the system! It's usually only when it continues well beyond that or that the smoke starts to get significantly worse that you need to look further.