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Nitrous?
- Thread starter Revalden
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
The million dollar question ….. I have not heard of anyone here trying this …. so I think you be the test case ….. good luck ….. Mike
hyea:
Hypurone
Active member
Being that you would have to tune the ECM for a dry shot and I know of no one doing it, you would need to do wet. Which presents its own probs as there is no "specific" spray plate/nozzle for these critters that I know of! There is stuff for the offroad Can Am products but their displacements are usually smaller, so smaller nozzles/fuel pumps etc. Nitrous is risky business when unable to actually tune for it...
Revalden
New member
The million dollar question ….. I have not heard of anyone here trying this …. so I think you be the test case ….. good luck ….. Mike
Several years ago when my son was 16 he got into lawn mower drag racing. He usually won his class(single cylinder) because he was at least 100lbs lighter than the other riders. When he was old enough to race against the 2 cylinders machines we had to give him a boost. It was a CO2 size container with a trigger attached to the steering wheel. When he pulled it the engine would take off like a scalded cat. He loved it. I think the contraption is still around somewhere.
Revalden
New member
Isn't there a front sprocket upgrade available?
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree: …. I've stated this in other threads …. old school carbs, cranks, heads etc. could be fiddled with …. but todays computers makes doing anything similar almost impossible ….. That said, programming the ECU to accept different parameters is the only way to go ….. visit " Monster Fuel " …. they have been very successful …… good luck …. Mike
hyea:Don't do it! Especially a so called dry system!
If I were going to put N20 on my 1330 if I had one which I don't. I have a 998. I would run a stand alone system, N20 and fuel solenoids, separate fuel pump, separate arm and trigger switch. I would drill and tap each intake runner for the 1/8 pipe thread injectors 2 per runner, don't tap too deep as you don't want the threads protruding into the runners, just the tip, with jets directed toward head. I always used the small brass injectors and used pin drills to adjust my HP. I always used the small Teflon 3/16" lines not the braided stainless, run the stainless to the bottle. I would likely start with a .012 N20 and .016 fuel size which should be around 20 HP or so. Run the equal length fuel and N20 lines, I usually made the N20 lines slightly longer than the fuel around 3-6". Then the lines connect to the fuel and N20 distribution blocks which are connected to each solenoid. The fuel solenoid is directly connected to the separate fuel pump, I used a small Facet. You need a separate fuel supply for the N20 fuel pump. Run the stainless line from N20 solenoid to the bottle mount position. Then wire the electronics, arm switch that turns fuel pump on and arms solenoids and activation switch. Losing fuel pressure will melt all kinds of goodies in the engine like a cutting torch!
Wildrice
New member
I have the opposite experience----I know only those who use the dry shot from a 2 lb or 5 lb bottle on motorcycles. Injection turn on is usually done manually via a button-switch but can be programmed to come on at a certain RPM & WOT. Most riders just plum the NOS jet into the airbox or use multiple injectors over the intake throttle body. They usually don't modify the ECU fuel parameters for the NOS assist. Many of them do retard the timing 2-3 degrees toward the top rpm which does prevent the heat from melting the valve seat out of the aluminum heads(I've done it twice land speed racing a mile track on abandoned air strips--crossed the 132' timing traps at 193 mph & 196 mph on 3 out of 4 cylinders. Also dry NOS is inexpensive compared to Wet NOS or turbo-superchargers. Other than the drag strip--how often would Spyder riders be at WOT & predetermined RPM with a limited supply of NOS? Darrell
Gwolf
Well-known member
What is the point anyway? If it is just to make it faster than the friends with Harleys.......... it already is faster than most of them when it is bone stock. Just a few modifications not involving NOS and it would be faster that all but the most radical Harley builds. The 1330 is a balanced engine that will turn up twice the RPMs that a Harley could. It has more rubber on the road and stability when the rear tire breaks loose. The F3-S is also lighter than the full dressed Harleys. The only one that has a chance of hanging with a 1330 would be a modified Sportster. Unless you are trying to see which one can make the most noise, the 1330 is already the winner. I have nothing against Harley. I rode them for several decades. They are just ancient, pushrod engines that can't turn the RPMs that even a stock Spyder can and most weigh a lot more than the Spyder.
cruisinTX
Member
yep, I agree with Gwolf here.
I guess I'm just not a speed or race junkie so I totally do not understand the need to even consider doing something like this to a machine that is already pretty quick off the line and will no doubt out pace most Harleys from start to top end. There are a few HDs that might hang; like the Sportser mentioned and a V-rod. But beyond the first 200 to 300 yards HDs lose steam pretty quickly. And again; what's the point--a need to puff up your chest or ?????? all the while possibly doing irreparable damage to a $30K machine that is already has pretty good performance.
Again, bring your Spyder and a bag of $$$ and we shall see??
exactly!!!!
Hmmm... I have a mildly built 103" in my 2009 FLHT. Nothing crazy, and it dyno's (FuelMoto dyno-tune) at 110hp/115tq. Don't think my F3-S would hang with it. Certainly not with my buddies and their 114"/117" builds
You would be correct sir!
Sometimes folks offer incorrect information to someone seeking knowledge then it snowballs.
:agree: …. I've stated this in other threads …. old school carbs, cranks, heads etc. could be fiddled with …. but todays computers makes doing anything similar almost impossible ….. That said, programming the ECU to accept different parameters is the only way to go ….. visit " Monster Fuel " …. they have been very successful …… good luck …. Mike
Todays ECUs make it possible to make extreme amounts of horsepower and extract every ounce but are a bit more complicated and scare most folks. Look at a Pro street Suzuki Hayabusa for instance 6.40 sec 230+ mph in a 1/4 mile and on a 7" dot tire with no wheelie bar. Hard to tailor and control 700+ HP to do that without electronics. I should have said probably impossible! These are not race bikes nor is there any support for performance as the want or need is not there. Program the ECU and add your favorite exhaust and CUPHOLDER and enjoy!
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