-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
New to the Forum with Questions
- Thread starter MyEleanor
- Start date
Big Arm
New member
:agree: with what John said in his post. I'm in Tucson now, so if I can help, send me a PM and we can talk, although I have a
'08 manual. and also :welcome:
Spyder4Tess
New member
Wait until you ride one....you'll be trying to grab for the front brake!
BajaRon
Well-known member
If I had test ridden a Spyder before I purchased one I would not have gotten it. Coming off of 2 wheels it was a tough transition for me. Took 300-400 miles to finally feel good on the Spyder.
Old habits die hard in some of us. You may transition more quickly than I did.
Once I realized that it was me and not the Spyder, things got better until now I have a blast on my Spyder.
Give it a fair chance and you'll likely find it's the best ride you've ever had.
Vic Vision to Spyder
Hi
Welcome to the forum and to imminent Spyder ownership.
I transitioned from a 2009 Victory Vision Tour to a 2013 RTS-SE5 -- 1,500 miles riding now in 3 months. I purchased mine in in September as a 'leftover' with all the BRP incentives. i got a very good deal - out the door at $21,300 + tax.
Some thoughts to your questions using the Vision as a background -
1. As mentioned there is no lean so that is obvious. My Spyder needed an alignment as many do. At first it was very squirelly now it is rock solid. It disturbed me greatly it also leaned (rocked back and forth) with road crowns etc. To my 2 wheel brain I was always correcting for movement caused by the 'lean' which never came. So between this and the very fast steering I was always over
correcting. Takes a while to learn to think pressure on the bars - not movement. Make sure you get the dealer to make the alignment right and take heed of the advice on tire pressures. I run mine at stock pressures with the mods I did (these are like stock 2014). I am not a fan of using tire pressures to solve other deficiencies in the suspension.
2. The Rotax likes to rev - I could ride the Vic all day at 2000-2500 rpm and it was happy. With the real overdrive i got 40+ mpg I get about 27-29 with the Spyder which needs to run 4000-5000 rpm to be happy and the 2013 has no 6th gear. The 2014 has a bigger engine and 6th (not sure if it is a OD that is a good as the Vic) in either case I would not 'lug' the engine - it is not a big V-Twin.
3. I found the suspension to be a little too soft and the roll / lean too much so I made the mods listed below. Many people have made similar mods to the handling. The 2014 has a bit stiffer suspension by all reports but I have not seen a comparison test. I put the 2014 shocks/springs on my 2013 and the difference is very noticeable. The Spyder is a very stable platform when it is set up correctly and inspires confidence to continue to push it a little at a time.
4. The stock seat is very comfortable. I opted to an Ultimate Tall Boy seat because I am 6'3 and 260. It feels much better as it is moved back a bit and slightly higher than the stock. It does steal a bit of room from the passenger seat but not a show stopper. OTW this is a very comfortable bike and you can cruise all day long. There are options from BRP to do seat changes. My wife loves it. It was hard to get her on the Vic - now I can't keep her from riding. That is a mixed blessing LOL
5. I don't see much difference in the maintenance cost between it and the Vic or other cycles. My 600 mile check ran about $300 comparable to the Vic. I had a Yamaha 1100 which was a bear just to change the oil and had valve adjustment intervals like the pre-2014 Spyders. All in all maintenance is probably mid-range compared to all bikes.
6. I did not miss the front brake at all - but that is just me. I used to use the rear brake a lot on the Vic a la Ride Like A Pro - motorcycle cop technique so it was an easy transition. The brake pedal location does take so getting used to however. And with all the technology the Spyder does STOP! Depending on my hand position I had a tendency to roll throttle back on slightly while pulling the front brake - that tendency is now gone.
7. The automatic is a dream and they made it better too in 2014. I do not miss rowing gears. OBTW I have the paddle shift on my Corvette and it too makes the manual rather dated. (A large number of race cars also use paddle shift - although we hate to admit it those computers can rpm match etc faster and better than perhaps only the very best drivers - I ain't no Valentino Rossi
)
Good luck choosing and I do not think you can make a mistake versus any other trike if that is where you are headed. If you are interested I started a couple of long threads on suspension and shocks. Search on dangme55 and shocks and weight distribution and you will find them if you are interested in tech things.
Plan a lot of free time in your future as you WILL be riding the Spyder often - it is addictive.
Hi
Welcome to the forum and to imminent Spyder ownership.
I transitioned from a 2009 Victory Vision Tour to a 2013 RTS-SE5 -- 1,500 miles riding now in 3 months. I purchased mine in in September as a 'leftover' with all the BRP incentives. i got a very good deal - out the door at $21,300 + tax.
Some thoughts to your questions using the Vision as a background -
1. As mentioned there is no lean so that is obvious. My Spyder needed an alignment as many do. At first it was very squirelly now it is rock solid. It disturbed me greatly it also leaned (rocked back and forth) with road crowns etc. To my 2 wheel brain I was always correcting for movement caused by the 'lean' which never came. So between this and the very fast steering I was always over
correcting. Takes a while to learn to think pressure on the bars - not movement. Make sure you get the dealer to make the alignment right and take heed of the advice on tire pressures. I run mine at stock pressures with the mods I did (these are like stock 2014). I am not a fan of using tire pressures to solve other deficiencies in the suspension.
2. The Rotax likes to rev - I could ride the Vic all day at 2000-2500 rpm and it was happy. With the real overdrive i got 40+ mpg I get about 27-29 with the Spyder which needs to run 4000-5000 rpm to be happy and the 2013 has no 6th gear. The 2014 has a bigger engine and 6th (not sure if it is a OD that is a good as the Vic) in either case I would not 'lug' the engine - it is not a big V-Twin.
3. I found the suspension to be a little too soft and the roll / lean too much so I made the mods listed below. Many people have made similar mods to the handling. The 2014 has a bit stiffer suspension by all reports but I have not seen a comparison test. I put the 2014 shocks/springs on my 2013 and the difference is very noticeable. The Spyder is a very stable platform when it is set up correctly and inspires confidence to continue to push it a little at a time.
4. The stock seat is very comfortable. I opted to an Ultimate Tall Boy seat because I am 6'3 and 260. It feels much better as it is moved back a bit and slightly higher than the stock. It does steal a bit of room from the passenger seat but not a show stopper. OTW this is a very comfortable bike and you can cruise all day long. There are options from BRP to do seat changes. My wife loves it. It was hard to get her on the Vic - now I can't keep her from riding. That is a mixed blessing LOL
5. I don't see much difference in the maintenance cost between it and the Vic or other cycles. My 600 mile check ran about $300 comparable to the Vic. I had a Yamaha 1100 which was a bear just to change the oil and had valve adjustment intervals like the pre-2014 Spyders. All in all maintenance is probably mid-range compared to all bikes.
6. I did not miss the front brake at all - but that is just me. I used to use the rear brake a lot on the Vic a la Ride Like A Pro - motorcycle cop technique so it was an easy transition. The brake pedal location does take so getting used to however. And with all the technology the Spyder does STOP! Depending on my hand position I had a tendency to roll throttle back on slightly while pulling the front brake - that tendency is now gone.
7. The automatic is a dream and they made it better too in 2014. I do not miss rowing gears. OBTW I have the paddle shift on my Corvette and it too makes the manual rather dated. (A large number of race cars also use paddle shift - although we hate to admit it those computers can rpm match etc faster and better than perhaps only the very best drivers - I ain't no Valentino Rossi
)Good luck choosing and I do not think you can make a mistake versus any other trike if that is where you are headed. If you are interested I started a couple of long threads on suspension and shocks. Search on dangme55 and shocks and weight distribution and you will find them if you are interested in tech things.
Plan a lot of free time in your future as you WILL be riding the Spyder often - it is addictive.
MyEleanor
New member
Thanks Dang. Fortunately between the Vic and today I had the BMW which was also a high revving motor. So I got used to being in a higher RPM range than the Vic. The Beemer was happiest around 4K or so. I presume the Spyder will be the same. Although the 2014's with the 6th gear are supposed to rev a little lower I think I read. In any event, I realize it will be quite an adjustment if I decide to pull the trigger. Being an engineer, I have to over analyze everything before I do anything. But I am definitely enamored with the Spyder. Probably the RTS. The local dealer said he will be getting in 2014's at the end of December or beginning or January. We shall see.
Deanna777
Well-known member
HI: Last year, I bought a 2012 RT-SE5semi- auto matic. I have been on some long trips , and the stock seat is comfortable. I would recommend : test driving, or talking to someone who has a :spyder2: before you go to buy 1. I really like my :spyder2:. Deanna777
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Spyders are happiest above five grand. 4K would be a minimum, and below 3500 you could damage the clutch on an SE. It revs a little higher than the Beemer, but it will not be a big adjustment for you. I switch back and forth readily. The 2014 RT will rev significantly lower, have no worries about the clutch, and will pull like a freight train from much lower rpms. It will probably spoil you in short order.
hyea:Bob Ledford
New member
More input to your questions
One of the first things I noticed was the engine start up drill. You do not just walk up to one toss your leg over the saddle, plop your butt in the saddle and go. You have to approach the Spyder and develop a protocol or a procedure. You insert the key and turn it on, wait for the main computer module to boot up. Then you get the safety warning screen, press the MODE button" press the BRAKE pedal and then the START button.
With the SE-5 transmission you do not have to hunt the gears for NEUTRAL it seeks it on its own. You will get the usual wet clutch gear clunk or clank when you first engage the shifter just like any bike using a wet clutch.
One of the Spyder drivers"Illinois Boy" has come up a excellent paper on tips for the new owner/operator of a Spyder. Do an advance search for " new rider info " and you should be able to find it with a minimum of hassle,
Which ever model you decide on that fits your rider posture and comfort level. I think you will be happy with.
Our 2011 RTL, SE-5 has had very few problems. At first it threw out a bunch of computer trouble codes. My selling/servicing dealer eventually got them all ironed out. Then I had a turn signal control assembly go bottom up. Just after the warranty ran out the DPS sensor threw a code and it turned out to be the sensor switch and the DPS unit both went bad that repair paid for the extended warranty itself.
One of the first things I noticed was the engine start up drill. You do not just walk up to one toss your leg over the saddle, plop your butt in the saddle and go. You have to approach the Spyder and develop a protocol or a procedure. You insert the key and turn it on, wait for the main computer module to boot up. Then you get the safety warning screen, press the MODE button" press the BRAKE pedal and then the START button.
With the SE-5 transmission you do not have to hunt the gears for NEUTRAL it seeks it on its own. You will get the usual wet clutch gear clunk or clank when you first engage the shifter just like any bike using a wet clutch.
One of the Spyder drivers"Illinois Boy" has come up a excellent paper on tips for the new owner/operator of a Spyder. Do an advance search for " new rider info " and you should be able to find it with a minimum of hassle,
Which ever model you decide on that fits your rider posture and comfort level. I think you will be happy with.
Our 2011 RTL, SE-5 has had very few problems. At first it threw out a bunch of computer trouble codes. My selling/servicing dealer eventually got them all ironed out. Then I had a turn signal control assembly go bottom up. Just after the warranty ran out the DPS sensor threw a code and it turned out to be the sensor switch and the DPS unit both went bad that repair paid for the extended warranty itself.
MyEleanor
New member
More Questions
As I have been surfing the Can-Am website, reading the 2014 brochure and checking out posts, a couple more thoughts came to me. First one is regarding vibration. How much vibration do you feel through the hand grips at speed/RPM? For some reason, my hands seem to tingle after a short time of holding on to the throttle (not so much the left grip for some reason) on all three motorcycles I've had in the past six years. Cruise control obviously helps but I'm curious about others viewpoints. Second question is regarding handling in the wind. I know a two wheeler can get squirrelly behind or passing a semi as well as in a strong crosswind. I have ridden in wind strong enough to blow me into opposing traffic on my Vision. But it is a big sail. How about the Spyder? I presume the ST handles it better than the RT due to the RT having a bigger cross section. But again I'm curious. Thanks.
As I have been surfing the Can-Am website, reading the 2014 brochure and checking out posts, a couple more thoughts came to me. First one is regarding vibration. How much vibration do you feel through the hand grips at speed/RPM? For some reason, my hands seem to tingle after a short time of holding on to the throttle (not so much the left grip for some reason) on all three motorcycles I've had in the past six years. Cruise control obviously helps but I'm curious about others viewpoints. Second question is regarding handling in the wind. I know a two wheeler can get squirrelly behind or passing a semi as well as in a strong crosswind. I have ridden in wind strong enough to blow me into opposing traffic on my Vision. But it is a big sail. How about the Spyder? I presume the ST handles it better than the RT due to the RT having a bigger cross section. But again I'm curious. Thanks.
summerdawn
New member
Hi, I have a 2012 RT. It is the most comfortable thing I have ever ridden. My husband and I do a lot of touring long distances. It is very stable at highway speeds and easy to pack and unpack. I rode Harleys for many years and I won't go back. I like taking people for rides on this machine and my passengers are comfortable. As for learning to ride the Spyder: it is not a motorcycle and does not ride like one. Just give yourself a little time to get the hang of it and you will be fine.
Dan_Ashley
New member
My hands would tingle on my two wheeler. After I learned to relax and NOT squeeze the grips so hard on the Spyder two things happened: 1) my hands stopped tingling and 2) The Spyder stopped fishtailing at speed.
i also had issues in heavy cross winds and from semi trucks. I installed the Bajaron sway bar (aftermarket improved sway bar). The new sway bar fixed all the wind Issues for me. Completely. I was amazed by this. Still am, to be honest.
Last edited:
MyEleanor
New member
2013 Heat Issue
I have read several posts about folks with heat issues on their 2013 Spyder. I have been thinking about that and can't figure out why some have them and some don't. Presumably, they are all built the same at the factory. Engines are no doubt built within close tolerances and the body work and cooling systems are the same. So why do some have the heat issue and others don't? I ask because as I get closer to pulling the trigger, if I get a monster deal on a 2013, I may go that route. But I don't want to inherit a built in problem either. Can someone explain what is causing the heat issue and why it occurs only on some and not others? Thanks.
I have read several posts about folks with heat issues on their 2013 Spyder. I have been thinking about that and can't figure out why some have them and some don't. Presumably, they are all built the same at the factory. Engines are no doubt built within close tolerances and the body work and cooling systems are the same. So why do some have the heat issue and others don't? I ask because as I get closer to pulling the trigger, if I get a monster deal on a 2013, I may go that route. But I don't want to inherit a built in problem either. Can someone explain what is causing the heat issue and why it occurs only on some and not others? Thanks.
Dan_Ashley
New member
Unknown why some have issues and others don't. Some possibilities include the variability in previous motorcycle experience, refusal of some to wear boots, personal tolerance, and lastly, ambient temperatures. That being said, I hope this does not start a heated debate.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I believe it runs deeper than this. Personal perception, riding apparel, and ambient temperatures undoubtedly play a role. So do chosen accessories/equipment (footboards) and riding speeds. There is more to it, though. Some very experienced and well-equipeed riders have reported problems that differed greatly from either earlier Spyders they owned/rode, and from other 2013s they rode or tested. Something is causing that kind of bonafide variation. In addition, the heat shield fixes that were necessary for the 2013 RT's and ST's were not needed on the previous RT (or the RS), so design changes have obviously caused heat build-up...whether noticed by the rider or not. There is far more to this matter than any of us understand. JMHO
Dan_Ashley
New member
I have a 2012 so I speak from total ignorance--but not without being seriously opinionated (me...not you)
Similar threads
