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New to me - 2013 Spyder ST-SE5
- Thread starter philkin
- Start date
Haze
Well-known member
Accessories for ST
There is no dedicated accessory bus on the ST.
I have n 2013 STS and added a aftermarket fuse block under the panel
that houses the Switches for the parking brake, heated grips and fog lights.
You can run dedicated power and ground directly from the battery to the fuse block.
I added a relay to switch the fuse block. From the fuse block I run my GPS, Driving Lights,
DIY heated grips, USB Ports (3) and a Powerlet outlet for my heated gear. Also have
a garage dor opener located near the fuse block. Lots of space below the panel.
Cheers, David C.
There is no dedicated accessory bus on the ST.
I have n 2013 STS and added a aftermarket fuse block under the panel
that houses the Switches for the parking brake, heated grips and fog lights.
You can run dedicated power and ground directly from the battery to the fuse block.
I added a relay to switch the fuse block. From the fuse block I run my GPS, Driving Lights,
DIY heated grips, USB Ports (3) and a Powerlet outlet for my heated gear. Also have
a garage dor opener located near the fuse block. Lots of space below the panel.
Cheers, David C.
Bfromla
Well-known member
:thumbup: Nice list & sounds great now:nopic: Or 10?
I'm looking to add few things in that space on my STL but have not had luck finding matching rocker switches that will fit correctly & just as water resistant. 
Trbayth
Active member
I'm starting down the same road as well; just need to get the fuse block. @Dave, which one did you get?
Also, @JimVonBaden just did a bunch of the same work on his wife's ST and he found switches (and a USB port) on Amazon. Start reading at http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-s-2013-ST-S&p=1197664&viewfull=1#post1197664
I'm adding the TricLED driving lights (the ones that mount to the fenders so they turn with the front wheels,) the USB port with built-in voltmeter, and a heated gear controller.
Also, @JimVonBaden just did a bunch of the same work on his wife's ST and he found switches (and a USB port) on Amazon. Start reading at http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-s-2013-ST-S&p=1197664&viewfull=1#post1197664
I'm adding the TricLED driving lights (the ones that mount to the fenders so they turn with the front wheels,) the USB port with built-in voltmeter, and a heated gear controller.
Haze
Well-known member
ST Upgrades - Source for Electrical Components
Right now the bike is a mess as I’m installing farkles, Saddle bags, Trailer hitch, Rear bag lights(DIY), Bumpskid
and updating the electricals. I will post pictures in a few days.
I like DIY and am constrained by a small budget so I built my Fuse box with this setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Way-Circu...h-GND-DC32V-/361867751933?hash=item5440ffb1fd
Bolted a relay in the upper left corner to make the fuse block switched. Power and ground are direct from the battery.
I tied the relay signal to switched power from the unused air pump connector. Concept proven on my previous VStrom.
You may also consider - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/top-open-wired.jpg
Or the FZ1 - http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ (My choice for the next project.)
Driving lights are from CREE – no problems with them being waterproof. Mounted on the lower A frames.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-CREE-Wa...ash=item3ad19afff1:g:bxYAAOSwB09YH-fT&vxp=mtr
Powerlet socket for my heated gear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/German-DIN-...-Hella-Plug-/301528740043?hash=item46348370cb
Marine Switches for Driving lights and Garage door opener. Waterproof and an exact fit to the
Spyder switch cutouts.
Momentary for the garage door opener. Fits in the slot for the suspension air pump (2[SUP]nd[/SUP] from the right).
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...id=221876213183&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658
SPDT for the driving lights. I’m working with adding a jumper for this switch to plug into to the stock Spyder harness.
Right now I have direct wiring to the driving lights. Works great. Although all you really need is an SpSt ON-OFF switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...d-LED-Light-/322343377148?hash=item4b0d2998fc
USB Charger port. I cut a hole between the Heated grip socket and the Garage door open for this socket.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-2-1A-Dual-Port-USB-Socket-Fuse-Cell-Phone-Charger-Audio-Input-for-Toyota-/262710447901?hash=item3d2ac34f1d
Cell Phone and GPS holder. This unit comes with a USB port, RAM Ball and Clamp. I built a Holder for the
RAM ball and the Powerlet socket from scrap Aluminum bar, spacers and bolts found on EBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-MTB-Bicycle-Handlebar-Mount-Holder-For-Cell-Phone-HTC-W-USB-Charger-/301947921572?hash=item464d7fa4a4
Cheers, David C.
Right now the bike is a mess as I’m installing farkles, Saddle bags, Trailer hitch, Rear bag lights(DIY), Bumpskid
and updating the electricals. I will post pictures in a few days.
I like DIY and am constrained by a small budget so I built my Fuse box with this setup.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Way-Circu...h-GND-DC32V-/361867751933?hash=item5440ffb1fd
Bolted a relay in the upper left corner to make the fuse block switched. Power and ground are direct from the battery.
I tied the relay signal to switched power from the unused air pump connector. Concept proven on my previous VStrom.
You may also consider - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/top-open-wired.jpg
Or the FZ1 - http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ (My choice for the next project.)
Driving lights are from CREE – no problems with them being waterproof. Mounted on the lower A frames.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-CREE-Wa...ash=item3ad19afff1:g:bxYAAOSwB09YH-fT&vxp=mtr
Powerlet socket for my heated gear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/German-DIN-...-Hella-Plug-/301528740043?hash=item46348370cb
Marine Switches for Driving lights and Garage door opener. Waterproof and an exact fit to the
Spyder switch cutouts.
Momentary for the garage door opener. Fits in the slot for the suspension air pump (2[SUP]nd[/SUP] from the right).
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...id=221876213183&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658
SPDT for the driving lights. I’m working with adding a jumper for this switch to plug into to the stock Spyder harness.
Right now I have direct wiring to the driving lights. Works great. Although all you really need is an SpSt ON-OFF switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...d-LED-Light-/322343377148?hash=item4b0d2998fc
USB Charger port. I cut a hole between the Heated grip socket and the Garage door open for this socket.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-2-1A-Dual-Port-USB-Socket-Fuse-Cell-Phone-Charger-Audio-Input-for-Toyota-/262710447901?hash=item3d2ac34f1d
Cell Phone and GPS holder. This unit comes with a USB port, RAM Ball and Clamp. I built a Holder for the
RAM ball and the Powerlet socket from scrap Aluminum bar, spacers and bolts found on EBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-MTB-Bicycle-Handlebar-Mount-Holder-For-Cell-Phone-HTC-W-USB-Charger-/301947921572?hash=item464d7fa4a4
Cheers, David C.
Bfromla
Well-known member
:thumbup: Thx & I'm looking forward to the pics, I'm sure some will ask for a wiring diagram & fuse size too. Hope we can meet at Spyderfest :yes::yes:
philkin
New member
Wow, great information. I look forward for you progress,
Thanks!
Haze
Well-known member
Pictures and Parts
Marine switches in ST Switch console.
Stock parking brake, My addition Heated Grip switch, 2 port USB in center.
Blank socket for Garage door switch, My addition Driving light switch.
Both the Grip and Driving light switches will install into the Spyder wiring harness.
Or can be wired direct thru the fuse block.
LED strips added behind the saddlebag reflectors.
Wired per the Custom Dynamics Givi Bag LED installation instructions.
DIY GPS and Powerlet socket mount.
Aluminum bar and bolts with RAM mount from X Grip
Switch installation in console is complete
DIY Fuse block. Relay added to top left.
Ground buss top right. Fuse values on cover.
Marine switches in ST Switch console.
Stock parking brake, My addition Heated Grip switch, 2 port USB in center.
Blank socket for Garage door switch, My addition Driving light switch.
Both the Grip and Driving light switches will install into the Spyder wiring harness.
Or can be wired direct thru the fuse block.
LED strips added behind the saddlebag reflectors.
Wired per the Custom Dynamics Givi Bag LED installation instructions.
DIY GPS and Powerlet socket mount.
Aluminum bar and bolts with RAM mount from X Grip
Switch installation in console is complete
DIY Fuse block. Relay added to top left.
Ground buss top right. Fuse values on cover.
Haze
Well-known member
Fuse Block
Your idea has a lot of really good merit. The Frunk has space and close proximity to the battery.
For my next project I will consider the Frunk and the FZ1 fuzeblock.
For the present the switch panel can be removed with only 2 push pins. Easy and quick.
My idea is to keep the switches and wired connections close to the fuse block.
I've been lucky, no blown fuses in over a year. My only real issue is maintaining a good
connection to the garage door opener. Maybe I should hardwire and move the opener sender to the Frunk.
Cheers, David C.
Your idea has a lot of really good merit. The Frunk has space and close proximity to the battery.
For my next project I will consider the Frunk and the FZ1 fuzeblock.
For the present the switch panel can be removed with only 2 push pins. Easy and quick.
My idea is to keep the switches and wired connections close to the fuse block.
I've been lucky, no blown fuses in over a year. My only real issue is maintaining a good
connection to the garage door opener. Maybe I should hardwire and move the opener sender to the Frunk.
Cheers, David C.
JimVonBaden
New member
The ST has only two plastic retainers that are very easily removed and that panel just pops off. It think that is a pretty good location, plus it minimizes excess wiring.
Trbayth
Active member
Good info Jim. Full disclosure: I haven't as yet taken that panel off and tackled this job.
stevencovert
Member
You can use this: https://www.innovv.com/innovv-power-hub1-cggr
Can readily tuck it under the side panel. Also take a look at the dual (front and back) camera setup they have. Not too awful bad price of $270, but to have that extra layer of protection...
Can readily tuck it under the side panel. Also take a look at the dual (front and back) camera setup they have. Not too awful bad price of $270, but to have that extra layer of protection...
Wondering how did you set the wires to the saddlebags? Is there a quick disconnect in place? And how is it functioning after 6 months?
I have found lights on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Motorc...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
That I will wire to the tail lights. On our '09 GS a 4 wire trailer connection was used. Yesterday while at Fry's I found a 6 connection DIN connection set. The trailer 4 wire was physically Too tight and so tough to disconnect under the bags, I hope the DIN connection is not at the other extreme.
Look forward to hearing your update.
TIA
Jumper for switch lights
"SPDT for the driving lights. I’m working with adding a jumper for this switch to plug into to the stock Spyder harness.
Right now I have direct wiring to the driving lights. Works great. Although all you really need is an SpSt ON-OFF switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-M...item4b0d2998fc"
Well I completely disassembled the STS this weekend. CB radio, iPod, GPS, Driving lights are all set up. I used an after market switch, and reused Custom Dynamic lights & connectors from our former RS. I'd like the light on the aftermarket switch to come on with the driving lights. I'm sure I could fiddle with the connections and blow a half dozen fuses, but I am hoping someone out there has already answered this question. The OEM power cord has four connections, Where does the Jumper go guys?
TIA
"SPDT for the driving lights. I’m working with adding a jumper for this switch to plug into to the stock Spyder harness.
Right now I have direct wiring to the driving lights. Works great. Although all you really need is an SpSt ON-OFF switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-M...item4b0d2998fc"
Well I completely disassembled the STS this weekend. CB radio, iPod, GPS, Driving lights are all set up. I used an after market switch, and reused Custom Dynamic lights & connectors from our former RS. I'd like the light on the aftermarket switch to come on with the driving lights. I'm sure I could fiddle with the connections and blow a half dozen fuses, but I am hoping someone out there has already answered this question. The OEM power cord has four connections, Where does the Jumper go guys?
TIA
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:congrats:
Haze
Well-known member
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I wired a quick disconnect connector into the circuit from the saddle bag lights.
The wiring and connector are held to the saddle bag mount with a velcro wrap.
All my wiring ties into the isolator for my trailer harness. I have a DIY turn,brake,stop light, circuit that has a 2 wire output to my LEDs.
The system has been operating perfectly for about 9 months.
I wish we had a Fry's close by in Pittsburgh. Closest is in Chicago.
I like your lights from EBay.
Be careful attaching anything directly to the tail light and turn signal circuit.
I found changing the load + or - from the stock 10w bulbs on the rear turn signal lamps caused the dreaded HYPERFLASH on my ST.
I'm experimenting with custom rear turn signals at this time. Found CB172-US lights on Amazon that I hope solve the 10W issue. Will finish turn signal testing tonight.
Good Luck with your wiring.
Bag Signals
I found that any change in the turn signal circuit will send you into HyperFlash. I added a load equalizer and couldn't use the LED bulbs as they are too deep. So I had to order my turn signals #67 Red LEDs from SuperbrightLED.com.
I found that any change in the turn signal circuit will send you into HyperFlash. I added a load equalizer and couldn't use the LED bulbs as they are too deep. So I had to order my turn signals #67 Red LEDs from SuperbrightLED.com.
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