I agree Mike. Especially when you know that the bike only has 4500mi on it. Even if he did push/turn the pistons in they should have pumped back up quickly. That what's got me baffled. There's nothing particularly special about removing the rear wheel on the Spyder compared to any chain/belt drive bike. Hopefully I find something tomorrow when I take a look.
I normally do my own work but have had to get help lately due to major back surgery in 2018. Five vertebre fused. I'm scheduled for more surgery 12/17.
Thanks for all of the replys.
Any other ideas?
Not sure if I need to tell you, or if it'll even help any :dontknow: but once you've checked that the Brake Fluid Resrvoir is full of clean Brake Fluid (& not black smelly gunk!
) this is possibly worth a try....
1. Select Reverse gear & back the Spyder up a bit, saay, 4-5 yards/metres;
2. Apply the foot brake (not aggressively but firmly) to stop the Spyder moving & hold the pedal down;
3. Apply the Park Brake & once it's applied (you may feel the pedal sink a bit as the Park Brake takes up) release the foot pedal, then pause for a second or two;
4. Release the Park Brake;
5. Drive forward to return to your starting place;
6. Apply the foot brake (not aggressively but firmly) to stop the Spyder moving & hold the pedal down;
7. Apply the Park Brake & once it's applied (you may feel the pedal sink a bit as the Park Brake takes up) release the foot pedal, then pause for a second or two;
8. Release the Park Brake & repeat from #
1.
Repeat this process at least 5-6 times. The brakes (& the Park Brake) are all theoretically 'self adjusting' & so should be 'self seating' - the pistons because they're hydraulic & the Park Brake because it uses a screw thingy to push the piston onto the disc with an over-ride function to stop it screwing the piston down & then leaving it jammed up too tight! So theoretically, the repeated brake applications (both foot & Park) while travelling forwards & backwards may take up any hydraulic &/or screw slack left in the system & return your firm brake pedal.
hyea:
But from what you're telling us, I'd hazard a guess that this won't help much! :gaah: . I reckon that the most likely causative scenario is that the tech removing/replacing the rear wheel maybe disconnected or possibly crimped &/or damaged the rear brake line during the process, maybe while trying to get the caliper out of the way make it easier to get the wheel with the disc attached off or back on the Spyder.... it hasta be the rear brake cos it's the only brake caliper that
needs to be even
looked at when taking wheels off!
Either way, if it's not just a '
re-seat the pads' issue that the process above should fix, then it sounds like you've got some air in the brake system & the brakes will need to be bled in order to get that firm pedal back! :banghead:
Good Luck! :cheers:
