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New Throttle Body

WaltH

Senior Member
When I was at Spyderfest, I began to get the fault code “check engine” on my 2011 RT. At first, it would disappear with a simple restart. Then it started to get progressively worse. It put me in Limp Mode a couple of times and just plain shut down the engine four or five times. On the RT you don’t get the descriptive codes like you do on the GS/RS. All it said was “check engine”. When it was malfunctioning, start-up rpm’s would be very high at around 2800 rpm and would not go down below about 2200 rpm. The check engine message would appear, and if I didn’t shut down the engine, the computer would sometimes do it for me. Normal start-up would be around 2,000 rpm quickly decreasing to around 1,400 rpm. My remedy was to turn the ignition off and on several times and then hope for a normal start-up. On the way home, it became increasing more difficult to get a normal start-up.

My neighbors at the Wagon Wheel were Jack and Nancy (unknown last name) from Chattanooga. They told me about a fabulous Spyder dealership in Cartersville, Georgia called Extreme Propulsion. Jack said that if I ever had any problems in the vicinity of Northern Georgia, I should call these people. By the time I got to Tennessee, I was beginning to think there was a chance I would not make it home in Naples, Florida. So! Cartersville, here I come.

Jack and Nancy were right. This is a great dealership. I wish there was something like this in Naples. The owners are a husband and wife team – Ledgerwood (forgot first names). They didn’t make a penny from me, but they treated me like I was their best customer – very enthusiastic and helpful.

The B.U.D.S. computer indicated a fault code for throttle failure that was something like “failure to reset idle speed”. This is an approximation. There were many repetitions of this code. There were no others. The dealer called Kurt at BRP and explained what was happening and what the codes were. Kurt said to replace the throttle body. I have since learned I am not the only one with this problem. The dealer just happened to have a new throttle body (2010, but same part number). I was very surprised because I remember when in the earlier years dealers often didn’t even have O-rings and crush washers for an oil change. It was about 3:00 pm by this time. They said the service department would remain open until the job was finished, if I wanted them to do the work. I elected to push on because I wanted the work done in Kissimmee, Florida (200 miles from home) in case follow-up work was needed. We were not at all confident the throttle body alone would be enough to solve the problem. The dealer said if I broke down in Georgia, he would come and get me. I did make it home.

A new throttle body was installed yesterday. The butterfly valves (throttle plates) on the new one snap back in place when you move them. The butterfly valves on the old throttle body do not do this. They stick. It appears that my problem was sticking throttle plates. So far, so good, everything seems to be back to normal for now. I am keeping my fingers crossed. I intend to get the RT on Saturday.

I am leaving for a cross-country H.O.G ride at the end of the month. Our first stop is New Orleans. Maybe I should have added a snorkel on the new throttle body.;)
 
throttle body

Well looks like I'll need to add throttle body spray cleaner to my to do list.
Thanks for the post always good to get some useful info...:thumbup:not related to fancy lights:shemademe_smilie:...

Freebob...:doorag:
 
Well looks like I'll need to add throttle body spray cleaner to my to do list.
Thanks for the post always good to get some useful info...:thumbup:not related to fancy lights:shemademe_smilie:...

Freebob...:doorag:

Spray cleaner may not do it. It is probably not a matter of friction. The RT uses an electric throttle (drive by wire) so there are no throttle cables. I am not a technician, but I assume the throttle plates are moved by some kind of servomechanism, or servomotor. This is probably were the fault occurs. This is just a guess. I am sure BRP knows exactly what is going wrong.

The purpose of this thread is to alert other owners to the symptoms of this problem.
 
so you said your doing the HOG ride coming up... are you riding a Harley and the Spyder? or just the Spyder?
 
Walt, I am glad to hear Extreme Propulsion was able to help you. They are the kind of dealer you can always count on in a pinch. They probably gave you special treatment for wearing one of their shirts !

See ya in Maggie Valley. We are staying at the Alamo Motel in M/V.

Jack
 
so you said your doing the HOG ride coming up... are you riding a Harley and the Spyder? or just the Spyder?

For the past three years, I have been doing the National Touring Rallies on a Spyder. Typically,there will be four or five hundred Harleys and one Spyder. This has not been a problem. My Harley pedigree is as good as it gets. I got my first brand new Harley when I was sixteen years old. I think I have been on more of the National Touring Rallies than almost anyone else, not working for the Motor Company. I love those rides. I once bought a brand new Road King to be used only on the Harley rides. I am pretty sure no one else is that crazy. The Road King was only used for the Harley rides for six years (95,000 miles). I had other Harleys for everything else.
 
Walt, I am glad to hear Extreme Propulsion was able to help you. They are the kind of dealer you can always count on in a pinch. They probably gave you special treatment for wearing one of their shirts !

See ya in Maggie Valley. We are staying at the Alamo Motel in M/V.

Jack

I wasn't wearing their t-shirt, but when I mentioned your name the lights came on. ;) I did tell them you gave me one of their shirts.
 
Yup

This was the case with the RT-S my parents own. It's a 2011 and it only got about 600 miles on it before the bike started to go into Limp-home mode on a regular basis. You could go 80 miles after a reset, but not get to 100 miles before the limp mode kicked in. So, every time we tried to get a dealer to look at it, the fault code was there, but it wasn't actually doing it. Replacement of the whole throttle body fixed it perfect.
 
Spray cleaner may not do it. It is probably not a matter of friction. The RT uses an electric throttle (drive by wire) so there are no throttle cables. I am not a technician, but I assume the throttle plates are moved by some kind of servomechanism, or servomotor. This is probably were the fault occurs. This is just a guess. I am sure BRP knows exactly what is going wrong.

The purpose of this thread is to alert other owners to the symptoms of this problem.

Yes I realize all that but carbon can still build up on throttle plate/ mechanism and cause plates to stick...:thumbup:
 
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