New Filter Cap Bolt issue

[CanAmChris]

Hi guys. I took it apon myself to put on the new cap kit today while changing the oil. When I was putting the new cap back on I grabbed the wrong set of bolts (the ones for the motor cap) and put them in. They both made a little popping sound and just spun and spun. Took them out and there was a tiny little spring on the end of both. I put the springs back in and put the correct bolts in.

Now the bottom one snugged up nice but the top one would still just spin. I took it out and the spring was around the bolt threads. I took it off and it disintigrated on my fingers. Put the bolt back in and it just spins. I can pull on the cap and it does not budge but I am a bit fearfull to put the oil in and fire it up now.

Any ideas?

 

[NancysToy]

Those weren't springs, those were the threads from the hydraulic cover or housing. I don't remember which the screws thread into. You have stripped the threads, so they won't ever tighten properly again. Possible solutions...longer screws (possibly through the housing with nuts on the back if that is possible), Heli-coils installed in housing/cover, or new housing/cover. You may be able to do option #1 yourself, but the others will need professional help unless you are an experienced mechanic.

 

[CanAmChris]

Those weren't springs, those were the threads from the hydraulic cover or housing. I don't remember which the screws thread into. You have stripped the threads, so they won't ever tighten properly again. Possible solutions...longer screws (possibly through the housing with nuts on the back if that is possible), Heli-coils installed in housing/cover, or new housing/cover. You may be able to do option #1 yourself, but the others will need professional help unless you are an experienced mechanic.

Thanks Scotty,
Well this sucks. I didn't even tighten them very much and the wrong set of bolts was shorter. Very strange but that is my luck. Will it be okay to let it sit a few days with no oil? (obviously I won't start it)

 

[Sarge707]

Thanks Scotty,
Well this sucks. I didn't even tighten them very much and the wrong set of bolts was shorter. Very strange but that is my luck. Will it be okay to let it sit a few days with no oil? (obviously I won't start it)

Similar thing happened on my GS/RS about a year ago- Overtightened one bolt (Tranny Filter) and it seemed tight but had lost the grip- went for test ride and oil ALL over the road:yikes:
- Pushed the short distance home.

I ended up drilling through the back portion (Carefully) No Gaskets were affected and bought the proper length bolt and put a Locknut on the back side with washers on both sides-Little tricky holding the nut in back while you tighten New bolt BUT its been Great ever since.

Only problem is every oil change you have to put on a new Lock Nut on the back portion- which takes a few more minutes- BUT its not going to strip again!!!:lecturef_smilie: The tranny metal seems softer than the engine filter because I never have a problem with the engine filter and I have put on about a dozen?

 

[paulbrinker]

Those threads are called Heli-coils and it takes a kit to replace them because they come with a special tap to redo the threads in the casting. Last I looked, this kit can be purchased at an auto parts store, but I would check for the thread size on your bolt to make sure they have it in the kit.

 

[DrewNJ]

They are M6x1mm threaded holes.

 

[CanAmChris]

Thanks guys. Really not sure what I am gonna do at this point. Just dropped $700 on LEDs and now I can't ride it. I guess it will be okay sitting for a while with no oil.

I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see what they can do.

Pretty sad right now.

 

[NancysToy]

Not sure there is enough meat there, nor adequate access to install Helicoils. You will have to look and measure carefully. You need to drill the hole larger (6.25 mm for an M6x1.0 screw) and tap it for the Helicoil. That is then inserted into the tapped hole with the special tool provided, then the tang is broken off if it is a tang-type insert. The screw can then be put in normally. Before I did that I would try the proper lengthe screw. There may be enough thread at the bottom of the hole to work. You will have to be very careful not to over-tighten, though. The hole could even be drilled through with the tap drill size for a 6 mm, and threaded deeper, then a longer screw used. There are other possible fixes, like JB Weld, or using JB Weld to secure a nut behind the housing after it is drilled and tapped through, but all will require some skill, care, and ingenuity to accomplish. This kind of work is what separates mechanics from technicians. Sometimes an old-fashioned wrench twister is the best medicine.You Y

 

[CanAmChris]

I guess the shorter bolts were not in far enough and that is why it stripped and the longer ones are only about an 1/8 or 1/16 longer so they didn't have enough to grab and made it worse. Very frustrating.

I will let you guys know how it all turns out.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Sarge707]

I guess the shorter bolts were not in far enough and that is why it stripped and the longer ones are only about an 1/8 or 1/16 longer so they didn't have enough to grab and made it worse. Very frustrating.

I will let you guys know how it all turns out.

Thanks again for the help.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...Tranny-Oil-Filter-Sprayed-Oil-All-over-my-leg



I have been through this before!! The Solution I think you will find Best is Post #27 Of ABOVE thread BUT read the whole thread before YOU decide!!!!! #27 (Page 2) Worked for me and continues to work!!!

 

[ulflyer]

I guess the shorter bolts were not in far enough and that is why it stripped and the longer ones are only about an 1/8 or 1/16 longer so they didn't have enough to grab and made it worse. Very frustrating.

I will let you guys know how it all turns out.

Thanks again for the help.

See if there are any threads beyond the existing OEM bolt by sticking a rod or something into the hole to check the depth.
Hopefully there will be enough to use a slightly longer bolt.

Just looked at fiche and cover is $45 and gasket $15 but no idea how hard it would be to change it out. If not too diff, would surely be cheaper than having dealer do it.

 

[NancysToy]

I do not believe the threads are in the cover, I think they are in the housing. I could be wrong, though. Either way it is very complicated to change. It is not a simple housing and cover, it is the hydraulic shifting mechanism, and contains other components.

 

[CanAmChris]

...Lesson Learned- Don,t over tighten your bolts...

You are braver that I am Sarge and I am glad it worked out for you. I called the dealer and they are going to pick it up this week and take it in to fix it. I will let them know what your solution was because like everyone said, there is not much metal there to begin with so going bigger seems like way to big a risk. I will report the outcome in a few days.

Thanks again guys. As soon as it happened I knew where to go to get answers. Spyderlovers for the win.

 

[Jeriatric]

Won't help in this case but,

may help those who have SE 5's avoid a similar outcome. Next time you have the panel off color code the caps and bolts(different colors for eng/trans of course). A dot of color on each is all you need.

 

[NancysToy]

may help those who have SE 5's avoid a similar outcome. Next time you have the panel off color code the caps and bolts(different colors for eng/trans of course). A dot of color on each is all you need.

Good thought! Or just mark the end of one pir and the corresponding filter cover with a permanent magic marker.

 

[billybovine]

may help those who have SE 5's avoid a similar outcome. Next time you have the panel off color code the caps and bolts(different colors for eng/trans of course). A dot of color on each is all you need.

That's a good idea. What I have been doing is pulling both plugs, but only doing one filter at a time.

 

[bobbobtar]

I hate to admit it but I did the same thing last year on my 2011 RT-S. I just bit the bullet and put on a new outer case. Parts and labor ( $75 hour ) about $800.00

 

[bluestratos]

I helped a buddy recently with the same problem. I re-tapped it with the next size up bolt and holds fine. I used the correct drill bit to cleanout, enlarge and go deeper a bit. I can't remember what size it was (M7 x 10 socket if I recall, I had a few laying around but they are not commonly used) but the new bolts I used were longer by a bit as well. The ears on the cap can only be over drilled a bit but here is room to go deeper than the stock bolt, infact the holes are already deeper than the stock bolt by a usable margin. You will need a standard tap and a bottoming tap to make the most of the hole.

 

[DrewNJ]

If there is enough room to thread deeper then I'd thread deeper and stud it.
If there is enough room and you have to drill all the way though, then I'd thread through and still stud it and put a nut on the back.
Stud it and use red loctite or JB weld to make the studs permanent.
Use nylock nuts on the studs to hold the cover on.

Personally, I don't think I'd rely on just longer bolts or threading the holes deeper with longer bolts as a "working" repair. Only reason is that if you strip those in the future, your beat!
Good Luck!

 

[bluestratos]

Studs sounded good to me too but you cannon get a nut on due to the shape of the cap. You could use long studs and then sleeve it to clear the top of the filter.