New baja ron sway bar with lamonster links just installed

[JDTOLLAND]

Hello

Just finished installing the baja ron sway bar with lamonster links. Like everyone has said this is definitely an upgrade worth doing. I have a 2017 f3 t. It now corners so much better its a different riding expirience. I cant stress enough how important it is too get the bike elevated 22 inches high so you can get the other sway bar out. Start to finsh it took an hour to get it done. One link seemed a little tight so ill email lamonster to get a replacement for it but besides that everything is good. Thanks to all those that recommended this upgrade its well worth it.

John

 

[Chupaca]

Soooo much better.

Even on the new models that have a beefier bar BajaRon's bar makes the Ryde so much better. Congrats on doing it and enjoying it..:clap:I know Ron sells his bar with links. I know lamonster sells Ron's bars what I didn't know is that Lamont is making hiem joints. :dontknow: so we now have three making them..?

 

[jcthorne]

Even on the new models that have a beefier bar BajaRon's bar makes the Ryde so much better. Congrats on doing it and enjoying it..:clap:I know Ron sells his bar with links. I know lamonster sells Ron's bars what I didn't know is that Lamont is making hiem joints. :dontknow: so we now have three making them..?

No, Lamont sells Baja Ron links with his custom logo on them.

 

[BajaRon]

Hello

Just finished installing the baja ron sway bar with lamonster links. Like everyone has said this is definitely an upgrade worth doing. I have a 2017 f3 t. It now corners so much better its a different riding expirience. I cant stress enough how important it is too get the bike elevated 22 inches high so you can get the other sway bar out. Start to finsh it took an hour to get it done. One link seemed a little tight so ill email lamonster to get a replacement for it but besides that everything is good. Thanks to all those that recommended this upgrade its well worth it.

John

The link bearings vary a bit in tightness when new. But after a few miles they all settle in. You did not need to replace the link. I'm sure it was fine.

Glad you like the bar! hyea:

Even on the new models that have a beefier bar BajaRon's bar makes the Ryde so much better. Congrats on doing it and enjoying it..:clap:I know Ron sells his bar with links. I know lamonster sells Ron's bars what I didn't know is that Lamont is making hiem joints. :dontknow: so we now have three making them..?

I know this has been talked about. But as far as we can tell there is no difference in any sway bar for any model. This got started when BRP changed part #'s. But they do this when changing suppliers. So not necessarily a different part.

 

[Revrent]

John, just sent you a private message but also wanted to ask here. How did you raise your F3 Spyder? I just ordered the links and swaybar last night from Lamonster (BTW for everyone Lamonster uses Baja Ron links that are relabeled, I sent them a email and they confirmed it). The shops I have contacted around here want almost $250 PLUS to install the items. I did find one that only wanted $120 but they are a couple of weeks out....at the minimum.

I have a motorcycle lift, car floor jack, auto ramps, and auto jack stands. Not sure if they will go up high enough to do the install. I would appreciate some advice from someone who has done it.

John

 

[DGoebel]

John, Many folks have figured out how to get the height with what you have, I made a small wood platform that was the size of my HF Jack platform, using three layers of 2x4 scraps alternating with some scrap plywood/osb sheathing. I jacked bike up with the lift high enough to rest it on the jack stands. Loosened / removed the bolts while there. lowered the jack, bike still on jack stands, added the "platform" and jacked bike up high enough to slide the old out slip the new in, then lowered it back to the jack stands to finish.
I think someone here lifted the bike keeping the back tire on the ground by lifting forward of the balance point and the angle gave them the clearance to swap.

 

[BajaRon]

John, Many folks have figured out how to get the height with what you have, I made a small wood platform that was the size of my HF Jack platform, using three layers of 2x4 scraps alternating with some scrap plywood/osb sheathing. I jacked bike up with the lift high enough to rest it on the jack stands. Loosened / removed the bolts while there. lowered the jack, bike still on jack stands, added the "platform" and jacked bike up high enough to slide the old out slip the new in, then lowered it back to the jack stands to finish.
I think someone here lifted the bike keeping the back tire on the ground by lifting forward of the balance point and the angle gave them the clearance to swap.

My instructions come with suggestions for lifting the 2013+ Spyder models. But people have come up with a great many ways to do this depending on their resources. Still, an ATV jack, jack stands and cribbing (as you have here) are the most popular methods.

If you leave the rear wheel on the ground you don't need as much height. The bar comes out perpendicular to the frame. So with the frame at an angle, you can get the needed clearance at a lower height.

 

[Rattlebars]

Definitly get the bike up to 24" else there are extra steps (not too bad, but tedious). My floor jack would not provide the clearance and I had to take out some extra bolts to get the bar out. My bike jack was just not tall enough, but the solution to that is detailed in DGoebel's post.

I had a newer model F3 with "extra" bolts/sleeves/nuts that must be removed. I was fortunate in getting a bar with old instructions. Took a bit of guess work, but got it done.

If you decide to do it, there are the details here on what you need to do if you can't get it up. >CLICK ME< scroll to bottom.

 

[Leland]

Sprinkler valve box hole used for depth need to remove the bar:

I installed the sway bar on my F3 using a slightly different process.

I drove the front wheels up onto those cheap plastic car ramps you can buy at Harbor Freight. I removed the plastic shroud/pins that give access to the the pinch bolts that hold the bar in place. I removed these bolts/nuts as well as the stiffener bolt/nut/spacers. I left the Heim rod ends attached.

Next step: I slowly drove the bike into my yard where I had a sprinkler valve box. This box happened to be two boxes stack (one inverted over the other) so it was almost 2 ft deep. I removed the sprinkler valve box cover and place a 2x6 board on each side for the front wheels to drive upon for further height and support. I removed the bolts from the Heim rod ends on both sides and lower the bar down and out. I installed the new bar, attached the bolts on the Heim rod ends, drove the bike back into the garage. I drove the Spyder back onto the cheap-O car ramps and finished up the process.

I have to thank BajaRon for the idea. He mentioned that some people have driven Spyders over a manhole in the road to gain the desired distance required to remove the bar.

I hope this helps.

 

[BajaRon]

I installed the sway bar on my F3 using a slightly different process.

I drove the front wheels up onto those cheap plastic car ramps you can buy at Harbor Freight. I removed the plastic shroud/pins that give access to the the pinch bolts that hold the bar in place. I removed these bolts/nuts as well as the stiffener bolt/nut/spacers. I left the Heim rod ends attached.

Next step: I slowly drove the bike into my yard where I had a sprinkler valve box. This box happened to be two boxes stack (one inverted over the other) so it was almost 2 ft deep. I removed the sprinkler valve box cover and place a 2x6 board on each side for the front wheels to drive upon for further height and support. I removed the bolts from the Heim rod ends on both sides and lower the bar down and out. I installed the new bar, attached the bolts on the Heim rod ends, drove the bike back into the garage. I drove the Spyder back onto the cheap-O car ramps and finished up the process.

I have to thank BajaRon for the idea. He mentioned that some people have driven Spyders over a manhole in the road to gain the desired distance required to remove the bar.

I hope this helps.

I have received a great number of very inventive ways to do this install. One man had a basement stairway in the middle of his garage which he was able to drive over to do this job. Unfortunately, not too many people have this resource. Another did the manhole cover in the street approach. Luckily it was near the side of the road at the entrance to his driveway on a quiet street. Don't try this during rush hour on main street! :yikes:

Others have put 2 motorcycle ramps on their pickup truck tailgate and ridden their Spyder up them to the desired height.

But you can take the links off and drive your Spyder around without any danger. I have ridden my Spyder without any sway bar just to see how it would be. And people have broken a stock, plastic link and ridden their Spyder to the house. You just have to be careful as it will lean a great deal more without a functional sway bar.

 

[rjgraph]

Does anyone know if the links from Lamonster are better then the ones that Baja Rons sells? I am looking at the kit for 2010 - 2012 and the bar looks angled as opposed to the one on Can Am Spyder Accessories. And the Hiem links look different. Dog Bone One-Piece on Can Am Spyder Accessories and Lamonster has the three piece ones. Just want to buy the better one. Thanks!

 

[BajaRon]

Does anyone know if the links from Lamonster are better then the ones that Baja Rons sells? I am looking at the kit for 2010 - 2012 and the bar looks angled as opposed to the one on Can Am Spyder Accessories. And the Hiem links look different. Dog Bone One-Piece on Can Am Spyder Accessories and Lamonster has the three piece ones. Just want to buy the better one. Thanks!

The 2008-2012 Spyder geometry requires a 60 Degree bend sway bar. The 2013+ Spyders require a 90 degree bend sway bar. (Regardless of who produces it).

The BajaRon end links have gone through a number of revisions over the years. Each a bit better than the previous. Mostly to address long term issues that were not evident in prototype testing. I make the Lamonster links and brand them for him. Lamonster links come only in Black. All other colors are branded BajaRon. But they are the same link.

The Dog Bone links were replaced with the current version because it is so difficult to get the billet aluminum bore to exactly match the bearing race. Just a thousandth or 2 of variance in one or both could lead to a tight bearing. Or, some play could develop as the miles mount up. I want my bar kits to work flawlessly for the life of the Spyder. The dog bone version is still quite safe even if play does develop. But they can begin to clunk. Like I said, safe and functional. But very annoying. Higher quality bearings can be had and installed in a dog bone configuration. But to get the quality needed would ad a fair amount to price.

My sway bars come with a lifetime warranty. Others come with a 1 year warranty. End links that are going to fail will almost always last a year. Most of the dog bone links sets I've replaced lasted at least 3 years. Still, that is not what I am after. I have been very happy with the current link sets. They have been absolutely bullet proof. Zero issues. And many have over 50k on them.

I hope this helps.

 

[Don60]

John, I just replaced the sway bar yesterday on my 2020 F3 with new one from Baja Ron. I used my ATV ramps strapped down to my pickup tailgate. Worked great, you can crawl underneath with no concerns about the balance of the bike! Makes it so easy to get to all needed bolts and remove the old bar with ease. Good luck, that’s my thoughts...

 

[rjgraph]

The 2008-2012 Spyder geometry requires a 60 Degree bend sway bar. The 2013+ Spyders require a 90 degree bend sway bar. (Regardless of who produces it).

The BajaRon end links have gone through a number of revisions over the years. Each a bit better than the previous. Mostly to address long term issues that were not evident in prototype testing. I make the Lamonster links and brand them for him. Lamonster links come only in Black. All other colors are branded BajaRon. But they are the same link.

The Dog Bone links were replaced with the current version because it is so difficult to get the billet aluminum bore to exactly match the bearing race. Just a thousandth or 2 of variance in one or both could lead to a tight bearing. Or, some play could develop as the miles mount up. I want my bar kits to work flawlessly for the life of the Spyder. The dog bone version is still quite safe even if play does develop. But they can begin to clunk. Like I said, safe and functional. But very annoying. Higher quality bearings can be had and installed in a dog bone configuration. But to get the quality needed would ad a fair amount to price.

My sway bars come with a lifetime warranty. Others come with a 1 year warranty. End links that are going to fail will almost always last a year. Most of the dog bone links sets I've replaced lasted at least 3 years. Still, that is not what I am after. I have been very happy with the current link sets. They have been absolutely bullet proof. Zero issues. And many have over 50k on them.

I hope this helps.

So the one I am looking at on Lamonster garage looks like it has different parts, bushings, bolts, etc. Could this just be a generic pic?

 

[BajaRon]

So the one I am looking at on Lamonster garage looks like it has different parts, bushings, bolts, etc. Could this just be a generic pic?

Kind of a mix & match. Old BajaRon logo (though I know that didn't concern you). Keeping up with product changes/pictures can take a lot more time and effort than people realize. The 2008-2012 bar representation has the current link set. The 2013+ bar representation pictures the old, no longer available dog bone link set. The new link version will have 'Lamonster' etched into the body on the black links. And 'BajaRon' etched into the Blue, Silver and Red link sets.

I don't have a picture of the Lamonster Black links handy. But you get the idea.

 

[Snoking1127]

Had it ready to slide out the old sway and slide in the new one. Guy in the RV resort came by for a couple three minutes and I did that swap and then back on the blocks to connect the new one.

 

[rjgraph]

Thats what I thought. I will go with the Lamonster one. Thanks!

 

[Wmoater]

RJ, please don’t take this the wrong way. I know social media text can be taken the wrong way some times depending on how its read. I know BajaRon and Lamonster are best of friends “for a long time.” So it doesn’t really matter to him and he would never say a word but, here is just my opinion. If BajaRon actually makes and sells the product to lamonster and lamonster sells it to you for the same price as Ron (both Free shipping) and Ron has taken his time to answer 4 different questions on this thread alone, Then why would you buy it from Lamonster? Unless you’re planning on buying a bunch of stuff from lamonster so you want 1 package or have lamonster install it, then Ron is the man. You’re getting the same thing, same price, same product from the person who actually took the time to answer all your questions and “Makes” the product. Just my opinion and again I mean no disrespect.

 

[Wildrice]

I did the early model of Rons sway bar without replacing the original links--No problem after 6K miles so far.
Darrell

 

[FrogmanDave]

RJ, please don’t take this the wrong way. I know social media text can be taken the wrong way some times depending on how its read. I know BajaRon and Lamonster are best of friends “for a long time.” So it doesn’t really matter to him and he would never say a word but, here is just my opinion. If BajaRon actually makes and sells the product to lamonster and lamonster sells it to you for the same price as Ron (both Free shipping) and Ron has taken his time to answer 4 different questions on this thread alone, Then why would you buy it from Lamonster? Unless you’re planning on buying a bunch of stuff from lamonster so you want 1 package or have lamonster install it, then Ron is the man. You’re getting the same thing, same price, same product from the person who actually took the time to answer all your questions and “Makes” the product. Just my opinion and again I mean no disrespect.

I agree with what Wmaoter says. So how does one buy the sway bar from Ron if you don't do Facebook? I do not do FB for a number of reasons but cannot find a way to buy directly from Ron any other way. Anybody have an answer?