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Need some electrical help, please! (2016 F3L)

nealperkins

nealperkins

Member
First, I am a complete electrical noob, that's important information!

I have a pair of driving lights (fender mount) that worked just great for 3 years or so, connected to a rheostat on the side cover. A minor irritation was that I wired it such that the lights did not switch off with the ignition.
But, it happened that the lights began to flicker and come on w/o the bike being on. Hmm, battery issues.
So, I removed 'a' black wire in order to terminate the connection (and unknowingly disconnected the less on the bike's nose). I am not finally ready to repair this bike.
But, I'm still a noob.
Like you, I've got a few more farkles than I need. So, under the trunk looked a bit like a bird's nest. No joy.
I have detangled and separated most of the wires such that I have a clue what's going where.
My problem now seems to be that I cannot locate a wire/circuit that is switched. (Again, I don't know where all the 'add-on' wires are going.)
I have a volt meter.
So, what is my EASY solution?

Thank you for helping!
 
Why the Rheostat? Were you wanting to be able to dim the driving lights?

What is wattage of driving lights?

If you want them on with headlights, with option to run only headlights, then:
1. Replace rheostat with switch, as the rheostat is likely the issue
2. Power a relay from the headlight circuit
3. Use a fused wire from the battery to the line side of the relay, with load side either directly to the driving lights or to the driving light switch.
 
SportsterDoc said:
Why the Rheostat? Were you wanting to be able to dim the driving lights?

What is wattage of driving lights?

If you want them on with headlights, with option to run only headlights, then:
1. Replace rheostat with switch, as the rheostat is likely the issue
2. Power a relay from the headlight circuit
3. Use a fused wire from the battery to the line side of the relay, with load side either directly to the driving lights or to the driving light switch.
Click to expand...

First, thanks for answering.
I do not want them on with the headlights, only a variable option.
The driving lights are LEDs and I cannot easily locate the load. The rheostat is to dim those lights which get an instant reaction from on-coming traffic.
Yeah, I was doing pretty good until you switched to Greek, "Power a relay from the headlight circuit
3. Use a fused wire from the battery to the line side of the relay, with load side either directly to the driving lights or to the driving light switch."

Remember though, they worked perfectly without a relay, for 3 years. And, 'fusing wires' ??

Thanks
(I have also suspected the rheostat as the problem but, I'm not sure. I would like to be able to dim them.
 
For them to illuminate without operating an on/off feature of the rheostat, the rheostat is most likely failing.

The suggestion for a relay is to energize the driving lights with the headlights (or any circuit not energized with ignition off), without increasing load on headlight circuit.

If the total wattage of the driving lights + headlights is well within fuse limits, then they can be connected to headlights.

Without concern for a circuit always energized, just replace rheostat.

Was removed black wire energized or a ground?
 
If you are not familiar with relays, a normally open single pole relay has 4 connections:
1. Wire from switch or button or otherwise energized circuit goes to coil
2. Wire from other side of coil goes to ground

When 1 is energized, coil closes contacts, connecting 3 to 4.

3. Line side, which could be directly from battery + terminal, but requires an in-line fuse, close to battery
4. Load side goes to driving lights

This may better explain:

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
 
OK, that part makes sense to me.
But, I still would like to have a rheostat (replaced if necessary).
And, where do I connect the other wire?
Thanks
 
Which other wire?

Currently, I understand that you have a constantly hot wire to rheostat, then rheostat output goes to driving lamps.

Which wire did you disconnect?
 
Even before I bought my F3L I was eavesdropping on this forum and there were, and still are posts where an owner got bit by their Spyder's fussy electrics, especially when installing LED lights. There is a very simple way to prevent getting bit and that is to install a fuse block to attach your accessories to.
Mine is above the battery and is energized via a relay that's fed by a wire that is powered only when the ignition is on. My fender lights are connected to the fuse block as well as a couple other things and I have peace of mind that they aren't going to screw up the bike's electrics. Here's a photo of my fuse block. Apologies for it being upside down.

20190517_184756.jpg

20190429_155812.jpg
 
Lots of good information...but, you seem to forget the NOOB part.

What wire , from where, to where?
I think the fuse block makes a lot of sense (before and now).
Again, what wire to where, to where, passing through what device?
I'm thinking it's going to have to be professional help, despite me having figuring it out before.
Heavy sigh!
Thanks for your help!
 
Whether using a fuse block, for more than one circuit or a single wire with an in-line fuse, the challenge for Neal is to identify and locate a wire energized only with key on. Not having a schematic, nor a Spyder, I am not yet able to help further. The Ryker energizes the two USB ports when engine on. The fuse is only 5 amps, but a typical SPST automotive relay coil only draws 1.6 watt or 0.13 amp.

Otherwise, intercept high or low beam wire to headlight and use it to trigger relay...or an accessory circuit, such as USB ports...but only to power relay.
 
Guys, thanks so much for this information!!
At this point, I am committed to a fuse block in order to clean up the mess, that I made 'over a period of time'. I literally cannot tell what goes where as I have piggybacked too many connections.
These devices are, I believe, all LED lights. So, I'm not sure a relay is necessary?? But, if necessary, I'll just add one as I proceed. Necessary or advised??
Yes, I'll replace the potentiometer as well.
So, it is time to do this right.
Again, thanks to all!!
 
I'm thinking the way you are.
Remember, it worked for 3 years w/o issues and I'm not planning on adding anything else.
Thanks
 
Electrical Question....again

I earlier posted some questions regarding some wiring issues...

So now I have the fuse box installed (kinda a tight fit) but have found that the fused circuit I had tested to be switched is NOT (and Dang, I thought I was finished)
And, in looking at other fuse locations (for a tap a circuit add), it appears. they are all 'live' and not switchable. Seems odd to me, but.
I only tested the smaller mini-fuses, not any of the 'larger' ones. But maybe tap a circuit is not going to work for me??

What do you suggest?
Thanks again,
Neal Perkins

IMG_1067.jpg - IMG_1066.jpg - IMG_1068.jpg - IMG_1069.jpg
 
Sorry I am not familiar with your previous thread. I would not use fuse taps in the fuse box. How would you keep the water out of the fuse box afterwards. That is a very wet area in the rain. For a switched circuit. The customer accessory circuit is right there. Controlled by the load shedding relay. Powered with engine running. Not key on.
 
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