Need service - Code C1282 - anyone know an independent mech in Louisiana?

[bikerbob46]

My 2011 RTS just threw a C1282 code (brake failure). No one in Louisiana will touch it since it is over 10 years old. Does anyone know of an independent mechanic that works on Can Am's. Last dealer that worked on it was 200 miles away but recently sold to a new owner who goes strictly by Can Am rules.

So it looks like I own a $12,000 junker unless I can find someone with a BUDS to fix and reset the code.

 

[BajaRon]

Check your reservoir. If it is the slightest amount low, it will throw a code. If the fluid has gotten old, you might need to consider flushing the system. Not that hard to do yourself.

This may not be your problem. But it would at least eliminate something easily serviced.

 

[Bfromla]

:agree: & see if floats in reservoir are stuck. :lecturef_smilie: Brake fluid is caustic. Inspect pads & rotors. Unfortunately too many dealers not accepting over 10year old either -so call around. Hopefully can resolve without dealer.

 

[Peter Aawen]

My 2011 RTS just threw a C1282 code (brake failure). No one in Louisiana will touch it since it is over 10 years old. Does anyone know of an independent mechanic that works on Can Am's. Last dealer that worked on it was 200 miles away but recently sold to a new owner who goes strictly by Can Am rules.

So it looks like I own a $12,000 junker unless I can find someone with a BUDS to fix and reset the code.

There's A LOT here on the Forum already about that code, so just type it 'C1282' into the Search field up just above the top right of the first post; tick the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop-down list that should appear; submit the search; and then use the thread titles to pick the best-looking threads to read first! Doing that will at the very least give you a lot more insight into how you might be able to fix this yourself! hyea:

Spyders haven't changed all that much over time, so in the 15 odd years the Forum's been around, there's not too much about Spyders that hasn't already been asked and at least discussed here, if not actually resolved (only some people don't ever come back to tell us how they went after trying the potential solutions offered :banghead: ) but it ALWAYS pays to Search First! :thumbup:

Good Luck! :cheers:

 

[NorwegianRT]

I had the same a cpl of years ago and found help in this thread, read and try the method in post #3: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?154129-C1282-Code-Low-Pressure-Brake-Failure-any-ideas&highlight=low+pressure+reset

Best of luck.

 

[bikerbob46]

fluid level is tops. Last changed fluid 2 years ago. Tried to reset with no success, so think it will require BUDS hookup.

 

[BajaRon]

fluid level is tops. Last changed fluid 2 years ago. Tried to reset with no success, so think it will require BUDS hookup.

Talk to your dealer. They can hook up BUDS in the parking lot. That's the same process regardless of the year model. They could at least do that much for you.

 

[bikerbob46]

Have had no success with any dealers. Not liking Can Am at this point.

 

[Mikey]

Did you try to bleed the brakes? How do they feel?

 

[BajaRon]

Have had no success with any dealers. Not liking Can Am at this point.

It is a shame that BRP isn't more helpful. But work-a-rounds are much easier than changing corporate enterprizes. It's a bit of a trip, but Spyderpops in Pearcy, AR is an option. (501) 760-1234

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Have had no success with any dealers. Not liking Can Am at this point.

Hey Bob. Yeah, that whole issue is nonsense. They turn their backs on customers AND revenue.

Moving forward. When a vehicle gives you a warning screen and a code, it is telling you that something hurts. Despite all of the tricks, voodoo, and what used to work back in the 70's that you hear, the way to clear a code is to correct the very reason that caused it in the first place. Norwegian was kind enough to give you a link explaining how it works and everything you have to do. You need to perform a complete, proper brake system service, not just find somebody to hook up BUDS and reset the code. If you do that, C1282 is such that, and I promise you, it will be back before you get 5 miles down the road and you will have wasted everybody's time. It is never going to go away until you've fixed the problem that caused it.

BRP felt that C1282 was so important to safety that it is the one code they made to seal in, and nag you to death, until you address the problem. If you can do the work yourself, then there is a good chance that you'll be able to reset the code afterwards, without BUDS, by doing the foot on the brake pedal method right there at home. If you are not that DIY type of person, that's OK. Then you need to find someone to do it for you. A FULL brake service because you have no idea what the condition is now.

You don't have a $12,000 junker, but you DO have a 14 year old power sports machine. It will need corrective and preventive maintenance more often. And a 998 era Spyder RT is like having a whiny child. It frequently needs something. Be sure that this is the right machine for you. Good Luck.

 

[ARtraveler]

Hey Bob. Yeah, that whole issue is nonsense. They turn their backs on customers AND revenue.

Moving forward. When a vehicle gives you a warning screen and a code, it is telling you that something hurts. Despite all of the tricks, voodoo, and what used to work back in the 70's that you hear, the way to clear a code is to correct the very reason that caused it in the first place. Norwegian was kind enough to give you a link explaining how it works and everything you have to do. You need to perform a complete, proper brake system service, not just find somebody to hook up BUDS and reset the code. If you do that, C1282 is such that, and I promise you, it will be back before you get 5 miles down the road and you will have wasted everybody's time. It is never going to go away until you've fixed the problem that caused it.

BRP felt that C1282 was so important to safety that it is the one code they made to seal in, and nag you to death, until you address the problem. If you can do the work yourself, then there is a good chance that you'll be able to reset the code afterwards, without BUDS, by doing the foot on the brake pedal method right there at home. If you are not that DIY type of person, that's OK. Then you need to find someone to do it for you. A FULL brake service because you have no idea what the condition is now.

You don't have a $12,000 junker, but you DO have a 14 year old power sports machine. It will need corrective and preventive maintenance more often. And a 998 era Spyder RT is like having a whiny child. It frequently needs something. Be sure that this is the right machine for you. Good Luck.

:agree: Good point. There are a LOT of posters on here that still own 998's and feel they are the best machines. It might be time to change up to a more recent 1330 (give yourself at least 5 years before it is also 10 years old. Nobody asked me about what I think about the 10 year no more dealership support "so called rule." ???

A for sale ad, priced right, may take you out of your current misery. Those that are astute buyers already know about "the rule" and the issues concerning parts, etc. You don't have to re-iterate that unless asked. :bowdown:

RE: Spyderpops. A very good place to go. Knowledgeable and Spyder friendly. Been there and done that. :yes::firstplace:

 

[bikerbob46]

Brakes feel fine. Have not changed the fluid yet

 

[bikerbob46]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I will flush out the fluid and try to rest the code. If that is not successful, I will make the 800 mile round trip to "Spyderpops" and the 800 miles to pickup after service. I like the bike but at 72 and not in the best health it looks like this is the best option. Again, Thanks to all for the great support.

 

[Mikey]

I am with Snowbelt on this one, you don't have a pile of junk there you just have to ether find the gremlin or find someone that can! A full brake service is probably due! By any chance do you have any custom bike shops in your area, the ones that don't hold a flag for any one brand, some one that just works on any bike? Ask them if they would take a look at your brakes, reality is that it is just nuts and bolts and for the most parts they all work about the same! Good luck!!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I will flush out the fluid and try to rest the code. If that is not successful, I will make the 800 mile round trip to "Spyderpops" and the 800 miles to pickup after service. I like the bike but at 72 and not in the best health it looks like this is the best option. Again, Thanks to all for the great support.

One last word on the topic..."Speed Bleeders".

And as long as you’re already crawling around on the floor, you should at least LOOK at the pads while you’re down there. You can see them from the side of the calipers, front and back, without having to remove them. 1mm is the spec. This might help….

https://youtu.be/Csji-2tfwAQ?si=z1EsogebZTdc0gm3

 

[ARtraveler]

Thanks to all for the feedback. I will flush out the fluid and try to rest the code. If that is not successful, I will make the 800 mile round trip to "Spyderpops" and the 800 miles to pickup after service. I like the bike but at 72 and not in the best health it looks like this is the best option. Again, Thanks to all for the great support.

Spyderpops has always been customer friendly. Give them a call, set up a time, explanation, I will bet it will get fixed quickly without having to make more than one trip to/from Spyderpops.

 

[bikerbob46]

I have a set of speed bleeders on order. After installation I will do a fluid change and pad inspection

 

[bikerbob46]

Changed to the speed bleeders and did a fluid change. Reset the code with the brake pedal procedure and it has cleared the fault. Thanks for all the positive input from all. You guys are fantastic.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

And that, my friends, is how you clear a code. Any code. Fix the problem. Nice work. Be safe out there. Enjoy the ride.