• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need Part Number Help and Engine 'Stumble' issues

I would not replace either the spark plugs or the plug wires with non-resistor types. There are a couple of issues with that approach. First, the RFI emitted from either can adversely affect the CANBus sytsem, causing all sorts of possible problems. Second, damage to the coils, or even the ECM, could result. Third, the RS uses ionization current sensing knock control. A change of system resistance could trigger a response of the anti-knock system (or fail to trigger one), degrading performance or even causing engine damage. Modern engines should not be operated with non-resistor plugs or wires. Something changed on your machine, causing your sudden problems. You need to find the culprit and correct it, not create a new monster. JMHO
 
Tracking down the problem

My approach is usually to go back to the last change before the problems started. That is always great advice, so here goes. The last mod I made was custom built floorboards. During that process, I had a lot of the tupperware off so was extra careful making sure all electrical was hooked back up. I will double check all connections when I put back together since it is pretty well stripped down now at least on the front end. Can not imagine floorboards being the problem and had them on for a while before issue began.

Still wondering if it may be a faulty relay or bad gas. Will address the gas issue with some additive and premium at my next fill up. I have not received the new relays I ordered yet or would just install the new ones. Is there any way to really check the current relays? If so, how do you do it and why would the problem only occur at idle and take off? What readings should you get across the relay terminals?

I like a good mystery, but now that we have a couple of dry weather days, I want to ride some also.

Thanks for all of the advice. Will keep all posted on outcomes and fixes tried.
 
My approach is usually to go back to the last change before the problems started. That is always great advice, so here goes. The last mod I made was custom built floorboards. During that process, I had a lot of the tupperware off so was extra careful making sure all electrical was hooked back up. I will double check all connections when I put back together since it is pretty well stripped down now at least on the front end. Can not imagine floorboards being the problem and had them on for a while before issue began.

Still wondering if it may be a faulty relay or bad gas. Will address the gas issue with some additive and premium at my next fill up. I have not received the new relays I ordered yet or would just install the new ones. Is there any way to really check the current relays? If so, how do you do it and why would the problem only occur at idle and take off? What readings should you get across the relay terminals?

I like a good mystery, but now that we have a couple of dry weather days, I want to ride some also.

Thanks for all of the advice. Will keep all posted on outcomes and fixes tried.

:dontknow:
I know you ruled out the plug wires, But i think you should triple check them. ie, Run the engine in neutral at the RPM,s it's stumbling at and move the wires [shake] with a insulated tool in the dark. Especially at the Booth's.
 
Did you pull the vac lines all the way off and inspect as I had a break in one on the inside and not visible unless taken off. My throttle bodies were probably out of sync because of my mods [hindle, air intake, 02 Mod.] Is your Spyder totally stock? You may just want to replace the relays anyways as they are junk and many people have had problems with them.
:agree: and make sure it is routed correctly. Any leaks will throw off the AF ratio.
 
Do the fuel and additive at the first available opportunity. I wouldn't wait until the next fill. It is the most likely suspect and the simplest to check. Rule it out first. JMHO
 
Tank is empty and it has been raining

My tank is almost completely empty so was going to fill up next time out if it ever quit raining. Will fill up today or tomorrow since it looks like we will have 2-3 dry days. Just depends on how long it takes to get all put back together before I get to test it out.

Thanks for the suggestions and I will let all know the outcome.
 
Running Good now

I added fuel additive and filled up with premium this morning. Took two short rides today with emphasis on stop and go driving to get the temp up. Got up to five bars this evening with stop and go traffic, but no problems at all. The Spyder ran great in town and a little highway riding. Hopefully the problem was just some bad gas or water in fuel. Next time, I definitely will try the fuel additive and new gas before pulling off parts.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help. Good learning experience not matter what!!

:2thumbs::clap:
 
My 2009 SE5 was stumbling intermittently. I took off the air box to clean the oil. With the airbox off,you can manually open the throttle plate and look in the intake with a light. I seen a lot of carbon on the valve that is visible. I ran fuel injector cleaner and will say it has made a difference. I am going to run a couple more tanks with cleaner,then remove airbox and check again.
 
PLUGS

Change both plugs,my front plug fouled ou:2thumbs:t on a trip looked good to me.But it was running lean.Put new plugs in every thing ok.
 
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