Need a new drive belt

[tntherapy]

I've done a bit of pricing and can't believe that a belt is over $300. Does anybody know of a cheaper option?

I was in some gravel/rocks and about 15 miles later the belt threw off while traveling. I will replace myself.

Please PM if you have an idea.

Thanks, TNTHERAPY

 

[cptjam]

Cheap cycle parts.com.

 

[tntherapy]

Need more help. Got a new belt. It appears that when I had a tire store replace the rear tire, they screwed up the alignment and tension on the belt. The belt then worked it way back on the front sprocket wearing on the motor/tran housing. Not through but creating a bur that ate my original belt. I tried reviewing all the videos but cannot assume that the belt adj blocks are right. I tried using those instructions and my new belt is worn a little. It kept moving back to the bur. How do I start from nothing?

It sets now with the axel loose and the adjusters also loose. belt is on sprockets. Shock was not loosened.

Thanks, tntherapy

 

[Chupaca]

Try This....

Snug the axel.... start tightening the left adjuster till you get some tension on the belt. Then tighten the right adjuster to even up. Measure center mount on the swingarm to center of axel on each side to see if you are even more or less. Now snug up the left adjuster to get tension close to where you want it then spin the wheel and adjust the right adjuster to get the tracking to where you are close but not touching the lip on the rear sprocket..2mm seems to be the measurement mentioned. Now tighten the axel and double check cause it may move... spin the wheel frowards and backwards a few spins. The belt may move away when spinning backwards but should not be much then correct going forward....Thats the way I do it....:thumbup:

 

[tntherapy]

Should I start with the wheel forward or back in the slots for the axel?

 

[Mikey]

You have to start by putting a small amount of pressure o the adjusters like Gene had said! Follow his steps he has it spot on!! Good luck Do you have a tension gauge?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Burr on Pulley

Before you worry about the Alignment …… worry about that BURR ….. You need to get rid of that First ….. It will ruin every belt you put on ….. even if you get the alignment PERFECT - WHY !!!!, because the belt moves from side to side ALL the time. …. I've seen the Video's of it doing that ………….jmho ….. Mike hyea:

 

[billybovine]

You did not share what year your Spyder is. But by your description I would guess is that it is an older model with a front drive sprocket with only one flange on the outside and nothing on the inside. I would suggest replacing the drive sprocket with a newer version with 2 flanges. In the future. That will stop the belt from moving over to the engine case and causing more damage. Also make sure the sprocket is not loose on the output shaft. If it is. That will make the belt hard to align. The fix is a drive sprocket again.

 

[pegasus1300]

1st get that belt off of there and get yourself some room to work. Then take a Dremel tool and grinder wheel and remove that burr before you chew up another belt. Then follow above advice for replacing belt. Good luck, hope all turns out well

 

[tntherapy]

Is there a known reason why I cannot reverse the front sprocket?
I also found that the sprocket was wobbly and ther was a LOT of rubber behind it, ie 1/2 inch or more.

Thanks, tntherapy

 

[billybovine]

No you can't reverse the front sprocket.

It is not supposed to wobble. You have now found your problem with belt alignment. If the sprocket is wobbling on the output shaft. You need a new sprocket. If the output shaft wobbles in the case. The output shaft bearing is bad and needs to be replaced.

The rubber behind the sprocket needs to be cleaned out before it destroys the seal. But if the bearing is bad. This point is mute.

 

[Joerolwing]

I have one for $225 here in Nashville for an RT. I purchased it to take to Alaska but didn’t need it.

 

[tntherapy]

Well, i did replace the drive pulley. (sorry Joerolwing, I did not see your post before ordering).
about 7 months ago. Now I need better instructions about aligning. I found instructions in this site,
but they did not go into enough detail.

I took it apart and removed the axel and totally loosened blocks (I know, me stupid).
Now i have the belt travel down to 1/4 inch. Moving from forward to reverse, the belt moves enough
that it goes over the off-side of rear pulley by 1/16 of inch. Useable but not desired.

Help appreciated.

 

[BajaRon]

Don't worry about belt travel/alignment in reverse. Get it right going forward. That's the best you can do. Very little torque or stress in reverse. And very little time spent going backwards. It won't be a problem.

 

[2dogs]

When you've got it all aligned and snugged up but haven't torqued the axle nut yet, place your wrenches so when you finish tightening, you are always tightening against the adjusters. if you don't you may have to start over and realign the belt again. It doesn't take much to make that belt move across the pulley. Ie; left wrench handle up, right wrench handle down. Don't allow the wrenches to move over one quarter turn. If they get to a quarter turn while tightening, readjust them. Here's a schematic of what your working with.

https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/cam/53f54816f870021dbc21b88b/drive-system-rear

 

[SpyderJerry]

Bikebandit has that belt for $257.95