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my1st non-dealer oil change

pierrelogic

pierrelogic

New member
Man, 3800+ miles already? :D

Tearing into the Spyder in the next day or so to do my first oil change. got the shop manual, read Lamonster's step-by-step instructions...I'm ready.

Question - what tools are needed? I am taking the bike to my brothers so I won't be able to take my entire tool box with me. Can I do an oil change with just the tools that come with the Spyder (besides a torque wrench)? I'm thinking getting the tupperware off won't be an issue with the tools that came with the Spyder and I think it's safe to assume everything is metric but if I knew exactly what tools to have available that would be a big help.

Thanks!

PS - I'm sold on Amsoil so putting 10W-40 for motorcycles in the beast.
 
A set of allen keys, not sure of the size . If your drain plug was anything like mine I had to use a cheater bar to break the seal. Man was it tight thought I was going to break something getting the drain plug out, it has been that tight every time (5 changes so far )

All in all a pretty easy maintenance chore and you save yourself a bundle by doing it yourself !! Just a quick note and often over looked take the oil strainer out and give it a good cleaning, replace all damaged washers and O-rings with new.
 
:2thumbs:
The tools that came in the Spyders tool kit is all you'll need for a simple oil change. Like fastfraser said you might need a cheater bar [a small piece of pipe will work] I don't use a Torque wrench i don't think it's necessary.
You can remove the Tupperware with the same tool kit,:thumbup:
 
Remove the plastic panel that is under the engine drain plug or you could make a real mess (ask me how I know!). :D
 
If you have some metric hex sockets, the correct sizes, a ratchet, and an extension can make the job easier. Sorry, I don't remember which sizes...match up your tool kit.
 
You will need a 6 mm allen to remove the oil drain plugs and a 5mm to remove the filter cover. I got a set to use on my 3/8's " ratchet and the plugs come out pretty easily. Make sure you have the allen all the way into the recess in the plugs.
Have fun :2thumbs:
 
Use slow steadily increasing pressure when removing the plugs and filter screws. There are tools in the boot that can be used but if I were you I would get a quality set of allen wrenches from craftsman, mac, snap-on. These sets usually fit better and are less likely to turn the heads out.

Since this is not the first time oil change you shouldn't have any problems getting the plugs out. The first time they are removed is a tuffy and you will usually hear a sharp crack sound when they break free. It seems like they may have used a couple of specks of blue locktite on them.

Good luck and you'll find it is a simple task if done while the engine is warm... not hot. Ken krb1945
 
I have also heard the plugs come out a little easier if you warm the engine up a little bit first.

Also, be sure not to use too big of a ratchet for the allen sockets, as you could break one of the allen screw heads off. At least, that was my first experience. I then spent the better part of the afternoon driving my car to several hardware stores until I finally found one that had the right size screws. :opps:
 
Thanks everyone. I think I can scrounge up all those tools listed. Heading out tomorrow morning...road trip to my brothers. He's got a pole barn, ATV jack and more tools than me. :ohyea:

There might even be a morning shot (or two) of Tequila in the mix. No worries, no ryding while mentally impaired here....well not the self induced kind. :D
 
SpyderWolf said:
I have also heard the plugs come out a little easier if you warm the engine up a little bit first.
Click to expand...

It is a good idea to have the engine at operating temperature when doing an oil change.

Some of the worst contaminants tend to settle out of the oil when sitting. Running the engine helps suspend them and they get flushed out with the old oil.

Hot oil is thinner than cold oil. Thinner oil flows better. So hot, thin oil will run out more quickly and thoroughly than cold oil. This tends to help flush out more contaminents as well.

What surprises me is BRP's maintenance schedule on the oil/filter for the auto transmission as every other oil change.

Seems a small investment to drain the oil and change the filter with every oil change as both systems use the same oil reservoir. So whatever is left in the transmission ends up mixing with your brand new oil.
 
Ok...done deal and no problems.

$17.80 for the filter kit (thanks krb1945 [Ken])
$54.60 for 5 quarts of liquid gold er.. .10W-40 Amsoil
I only used 4.4 quarts per the specks so next time it may be cheaper having to only get a gallon of oil. :D

$72.40 and just under 2 hrs of my time. Not too shabby. :ohyea:

Surprisingly, after a good long hard ryde in high heat and humidity this afternoon I'm happy to report no leaks and the Sypder is running cooler than before by 1 bar. In traffic 5 bars never 6 (before it would switch between them often). Normal highway speeds 3 bars consistently. Did I mention it's hot n humid today? Good 'ol Amsoil makes a seamless transition from snowmobiles to cycles. Nothing but Amsoil will ever go in my spyder.

Very happy with the whole thing. Now I'm good for at least another 2 months.

PS - Tool list:
  • #6 allen wrench for the drain plugs (breaker bar optional but nice).
  • #5 allen wrench for the screws around the filter
  • #10 metric socket to get the two bolts off the frame to take off the bottom plastic piece
  • #30 Torx (or star) tool to take off all the tupperware
  • Regular screwdriver to take off the two plastic rivets under the seat.
 
Last edited:
Nice work Pierrelogic!

The world should change their own oil. Closer to the machine you ride. Never a bad idea!


pierrelogic said:
Ok...done deal and no problems.

$17.80 for the filter kit (thanks krb1945 [Ken])
$54.60 for 5 quarts of liquid gold er.. .10W-40 Amsoil
I only used 4.4 quarts per the specks so next time it may be cheaper having to only get a gallon of oil. :D

$72.40 and just under 2 hrs of my time. Not too shabby. :ohyea:

Surprisingly, after a good long hard ryde in high heat and humidity this afternoon I'm happy to report no leaks and the Sypder is running cooler than before by 1 bar. In traffic 5 bars never 6 (before it would switch between them often). Normal highway speeds 3 bars consistently. Did I mention it's hot n humid today? Good 'ol Amsoil makes a seamless transition from snowmobiles to cycles. Nothing but Amsoil will ever go in my spyder.

Very happy with the whole thing. Now I'm good for at least another 2 months.


PS - Tool list:
  • #6 allen wrench for the drain plugs (breaker bar optional but nice).
  • #5 allen wrench for the screws around the filter
  • #10 metric socket to get the two bolts off the frame to take off the bottom plastic piece
  • #30 Torx (or star) tool to take off all the tupperware
  • Regular screwdriver to take off the two plastic rivets under the seat.
Click to expand...
 
pierrelogic said:
Ok...done deal and no problems.

$17.80 for the filter kit (thanks krb1945 [Ken])
$54.60 for 5 quarts of liquid gold er.. .10W-40 Amsoil
I only used 4.4 quarts per the specks so next time it may be cheaper having to only get a gallon of oil. :D

$72.40 and just under 2 hrs of my time. Not too shabby. :ohyea:

Surprisingly, after a good long hard ryde in high heat and humidity this afternoon I'm happy to report no leaks and the Sypder is running cooler than before by 1 bar. In traffic 5 bars never 6 (before it would switch between them often). Normal highway speeds 3 bars consistently. Did I mention it's hot n humid today? Good 'ol Amsoil makes a seamless transition from snowmobiles to cycles. Nothing but Amsoil will ever go in my spyder.

Very happy with the whole thing. Now I'm good for at least another 2 months.


PS - Tool list:
  • #6 allen wrench for the drain plugs (breaker bar optional but nice).
  • #5 allen wrench for the screws around the filter
  • #10 metric socket to get the two bolts off the frame to take off the bottom plastic piece
  • #30 Torx (or star) tool to take off all the tupperware
  • Regular screwdriver to take off the two plastic rivets under the seat.
Click to expand...



Good work! :thumbup:

Here is to another good set of miles before the next oil change!
Cheers.
 
Since this thread was dug up figured I'd chime in with more info that others may find useful. Last oil change I thought I had reamed out the drain plug on the crankcase. Opted to go ahead with the oil change knowing I left about a 1/2 litre in the system. Figured I'd just let the dealer handle it. Well since then I purchased two new drain plugs (thanks Rando)

Rando said:
Crankcase: MP-01
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP01.html

Oil reservoir: MP-02
http://www.goldplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP02.html
Click to expand...

VERY strong magnets on these..really puts the OEM to shame for only $10 a piece.

Using an allen socket I seated it fully into the crankcase drain plug, got a good grip on the breaker bar and started pulling. I was fully prepared to use an Easy-out if it I failed. Thankfully, I heard the distinct "pop" of it coming loose. :yes: No metal shavings on the magnet through essentially two oil changes. Cleaned the oil tank strainer, replaced the silly oetiker clamp with a worm clamp and put in both new drain plugs recommended by Rando. Also checked on the Evoluzione HP filter while I had access and zero oil on it. Gotta say I've turned a corner on bike maintenance with this and confident level is higher having magnets on BOTH plugs. To me this little alteration should have been standard issue from BRP. But my days of worrying about getting the drain plugs out are in the rear view mirror. 17 mm socket is now a permanent part of my Spyder tool kit. :D

Honestly, if you don't do you're own oil changes...IMHO you're just not trying. So many advantages to getting the tupperware off and just looking around for things that don't look right and doing something about it before it's becomes a big issue. 13,000+ miles and running better than it did day #1 is a testament.
 
Just wondering if thats one or two shots of tequila before starting.:joke: Did you find the the oil tank strainer to be very dirty ? I've done 4or 5 oil changes now but have not checked the strainer.It was probably last looked at during the 12k service at dealer.
 
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