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My first code :(

finless

finless

New member
I always check for codes before shutting down.
Almost 4K on the bike. This AM on the way to work I stopped off at a store. Shut off the bike but left the key on and checked for a code. There were none. I restarted and rode the reminder 2 miles to work. Again before shutting off the key I checkED for a code and saw A c1290.

I looked it up (Thanks Roger for Sypder codes :)) and it might just be "one of those things". I will check the battery connections and battery voltage tonight but I fear my battery might be getting too old. This is a 2011 with original battery. It's never had a problem starting or anything like that even if I leave the radio on for hours while washing or putsing with the spyder.

I guess I will see if it continues and maybe get a new battery anyway.

Any other thoughts?

Bob
 
Little checking..!!

I would double check connections. If your not ryding to regular and don't have a tender you could add one to better maintain your battery. Battery life varies a lot so keep an eye on it or replace it and be done with the worries... :thumbup:
 
Thanks all.... I ride it every day to work. It did sit prior to this Monday for about 4 days with no tender. But I did not get a code Monday when starting.

Jerbear, it's hard to believe that little thing could start a spyder but interesting device. I have some big lipo batteries from my RC helis that might fit this bill as well... Maybe I will test a set of 5000 MA 3 cell lipo packs to see if it will start the sypder. I am sure what they are using in that device is similar.

Tonight I will check connections as I did add a alarm system recently in which I connected power directly to the battery positive using the extra available thread hole in the poll locking nut. Perhaps I loosened the over all conection. I will also check the grounds but I am afraid to mess with the "Don't mess with that one" connection ;)

Roger... Again thanks for spyder codes! When I first saw the code I freaked but a quick lookup relieved my brain :) When I saw the code I was thinking throttle body :pray: as mine is a 2011. I didnt have to wait to get home and on a PC to look it up :)

Bob
 
I certainly would not buy a new battery based on one fleeting fault code, with only one module involved. To be honest, I think you are asking for trouble (and being way too anal) checking for codes at every shutdown, with no reason to do so. There are far too many fleeting glitches or signals on these sophisticated systems to watch the data like a hawk. If a problem is bad enough to pay attention to, you will see a limp mode or check engine light.

As to the VCM voltage error (which could be either high or low) the first thing I would check would be the battery voltage with both the engine off (11-13 volts) and the engine running (13-14.7 volts). I'd also check the ground and positive battery connections and the main frame ground for cleanliness and tightness. Beyond that check connections at the voltage regulator and the VCM...if you feel compelled. I would not be likely to do so unless I had problems or other warnings/codes.
 
Gotta say that you did pretty well if you're getting your 1st code at this point. I got my 1st code within days of purchase of my 1st Spyder. Granted, it was one of the fated '13 ST-L's, but I was introduced to codes being thrown and Limp Mode early on into ownership. I have to say she has been running right since (Thanks to support from BRP and Elk Grove Powersports). Here is to hoping that it IS just a battery (which is an easy and relatively inexpensive fix) rather than a dreaded electrical problem. The cup is half full...:2thumbs:
 
OK so I check connections and also did a full battery voltage test including under a load (I do have a load tester). Battery is fine. Connections are fine....
So this was just a glitch code that happened. Rode in today and stopped 2 times, left the key on, restarted and no code. So it was just one of those glitches that happen.

Scotty, I understand what your saying but I think it's good to check codes. Yes I am anal but not a nut job reactionary type person to just go buy parts. Checking codes doesnt mean you have to do anything about them but I think doing so gives you a little more info regardless if it is a problem or not. I mean thats what a dealer does when they hook up BUDs. Review your codes and take action if needed right? So me knowing what codes have been coming up only makes me a little more knowledgable when I do happen to see a dealer or have a real problem I could fix.

FYI after 4,000 miles I have never got ANY codes.... this was the first one. I looked it up and with good info I checked the things related to the code. Did it hurt anything? No? But don't you think it was good to at least check before it "might" have become a larger problem and stranded me? FYI, I never said I was going to run out and just buy a battery. I meant that if the checks failed, that it might be time to buy a battery. All things checked out so I am not buying a battery :)
I am going to continue to check for codes as in my opinion more information is better than no information. It's how you use information that counts.

Bob
 
Last edited:
Bob
Do you document the date & time of codes that do occur? It might be useful to BRP and your dealer; should servicing become needed... :thumbup:
 
Bob Denman said:
Bob
Do you document the date & time of codes that do occur? It might be useful to BRP and your dealer; should servicing become needed... :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Well since this is my first code there has been nothing to document before as far as codes go :)

But yes, I do have a log I have been keeping and have put the date, time, and circumstances.
The other things in my log are the one gas smell issue I had that lasted 3 days, one time on a very hot day (109F) after a long ride I couldnt get it into neutral as easy, and the over time vibration changes I have noticed which I am sure is the belt changing adjustment over time. Call me Anal all you want but I like keeping a log as you never know when something might be of benefit. I do the same for all my RC heli flights as well so it just came with the territory :)

Bob
 
I personally think it is a waste of time to check for codes without reason, but if you wish to do so...and to document them if you desire to do that, too, feel free. If you do so, you can expect to see other glitches occasionally. You can also expect not to see other (possibly important) things that may have happened , because only currently active codes can be seen. As a result, you really have no history, no associated warning or limp mode, just an isolated code number. It is like calling out "Tuesday" in the middle of a quiet room...it means nothing at all by itself.

When the dealer reads the fault history with BUDS, it is different. He sees any repeated instances or sequences, and he sees the order in which the codes happened. That is important because one fault can trigger subsequent faults in related systems. Reading a single code out of the blue is like drawing a name from a hat...it is just a name unless something else is associated with it. Do as you like, but just don't let any codes that show up without a reason make you crazy...or make you spend money or rush to your dealer unnecessarily. JMHO
 
But if I document the codes as I see them every time, I am building the same history am I not? I may not get the order triggers like in BUDs but I don't expect documenting these codes is going to replace BUDs in any way! Still I cant believe it's not useful in some way if not at least for myself beforte going to a dealer if ever required.
FYI one of the reasons I am doing this is I have a 2011 so I am watching to see if I ever get any throttle body codes. My warranty runs out Jan 2015 and if I get any TB codes I am going to see about getting the TB replaced before my warrenty runs out!

Either way I am still going to do it.

Also I can now recreate this C1290 code pretty much 100% (not quite though say 4 out of 5 times).
When I pulled over on Monday at the store I had the fog lights on, heated grips on, stereo on, BT dongle on, iPod on, etc and I just killed the engine and left the key on. When I came out of the store the timer that shuts off some of this stuff (headlights manily) had not elapsed. This AM I did the same thing and got the code. So it appears if you leave all this on drawing power and then hit the start button it can trigger this code pretty easy.

I added a voltage guage a while ago replacing the crappy analog guages and it was at 12.7 and when I hit the start button and it droped for an instant to 12.4 and of course jumped up to 14.4 once it started then leveled out after a few minutes to 13.7. So it appears the battery is fine but the spike when all this stuff is turned on causes the code. If you wait long enough for the timer to turn the headlights off, etc, it does not throw the code.

So just an FYI of what I have found. At least for my Sypder anyway.

Bob
 
finless said:
But if I document the codes as I see them every time, I am building the same history am I not? I may not get the order triggers like in BUDs but I don't expect documenting these codes is going to replace BUDs in any way! Still I cant believe it's not useful in some way if not at least for myself beforte going to a dealer if ever required.
FYI one of the reasons I am doing this is I have a 2011 so I am watching to see if I ever get any throttle body codes. My warranty runs out Jan 2015 and if I get any TB codes I am going to see about getting the TB replaced before my warrenty runs out!

Either way I am still going to do it.

Also I can now recreate this C1290 code pretty much 100% (not quite though say 4 out of 5 times).
When I pulled over on Monday at the store I had the fog lights on, heated grips on, stereo on, BT dongle on, iPod on, etc and I just killed the engine and left the key on. When I came out of the store the timer that shuts off some of this stuff (headlights manily) had not elapsed. This AM I did the same thing and got the code. So it appears if you leave all this on drawing power and then hit the start button it can trigger this code pretty easy.

I added a voltage guage a while ago replacing the crappy analog guages and it was at 12.7 and when I hit the start button and it droped for an instant to 12.4 and of course jumped up to 14.4 once it started then leveled out after a few minutes to 13.7. So it appears the battery is fine but the spike when all this stuff is turned on causes the code. If you wait long enough for the timer to turn the headlights off, etc, it does not throw the code.

So just an FYI of what I have found. At least for my Sypder anyway.

Bob
Click to expand...
No, you are not. You are only reading whatever code that may be active at that moment. You could miss three more, ten more, or a hundred more...or even see some that never stay put long enough to register in the fault history. Not only that, but such momentary fault codes may be totally meaningless...just transitory blips. Only a code associated with a problem (like not starting or goofy idle speeds), limp mode, or a check engine or other warning light is meaningful. If your TB fails, you will know it. You can check for a code at that time. It is not going to throw a code unless it is in trouble and failure has happened or is pending. I hate to say it, but what you are doing is pretty much a waste of time. It is your time, so you are free to do so, however. This TMI sort of thing is one reason auto manufacturers stopped putting numbers on gauges. Owners would obsess over the readings when nothing was really wrong.
 
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