Mud on your Trailer

[Lamonster]

Thanks for confirming the idea is sound... I went through some similar exercises to get to the point I'm at now. I have a few more steps to take to get it just the way I want it. One thing I'm adding to the bracket is some weldnuts so you only need an allen key to remove the fender. It's those minor things you find as you install, remove, install, remove something to get it just right.

Now I understand why Ron (Rcspyder12) added a mudflap to his RT, he rides a lot in the rain and tire spray up your back can be annoying.

JT

My fender bolts were 6mm torx #30 head and the bracket was threaded. After I got everything right you could remove the hitch without removing the fender. I would have been glad to share that with you if you had asked and maybe saved you some time.

 

[jthornton]

My fender bolts were 6mm torx #30 head and the bracket was threaded. After I got everything right you could remove the hitch without removing the fender. I would have been glad to share that with you if you had asked and maybe saved you some time.

Thanks, I wish I had seen your post before I started it would have saved me some time for sure. And using a M6x1 Torx screw to fasten the fender to the bracket is a better idea than using a 1/4-20 as the rest of the bike is metric and the M6x1 has more threads per inch than a 1/4-20. I usually shoot for thread depth the same or more than the diameter even though I know a little less will work. The finer threads on metric fasteners does help when using thinner materials but you have to deal with Mr. Armstrong who thinks that it ain't tight till it squeaks...

I didn't even thing of removing the hitch with the fender installed... two screws and the fender is out of your way. I haven't looked but I assume with the rear shock all the way up you could remove mine without taking the fender off the hitch. Do you have a side view of your fender?

Thanks so much for the input.

JT

 

[Jeriatric]

"The finer threads on metric fasteners does help when using thinner materials but you have to deal with Mr. Armstrong who thinks that it ain't tight till it squeaks..."

Thanks for the laugh :doorag:

 

[bullant12]

Erick, credit goes to samewok (or as CruzrJoe said to pronounce Sam Ewok). I'm not sure what the user name is, but I'm going to post the thread for you to see. Cindy & I look for to seeing ya'll at Maggie Valley.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?

Chris

Chris, the link takes me to a "dead" thread... Nothing there!

 

[MouthPiece]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?50888-Rear-mud-rock-guard&highlight=mudflap

Let's see how this plays out. Sorry about earlier.

Chris

 

[Lamonster]

Thanks, I wish I had seen your post before I started it would have saved me some time for sure. And using a M6x1 Torx screw to fasten the fender to the bracket is a better idea than using a 1/4-20 as the rest of the bike is metric and the M6x1 has more threads per inch than a 1/4-20. I usually shoot for thread depth the same or more than the diameter even though I know a little less will work. The finer threads on metric fasteners does help when using thinner materials but you have to deal with Mr. Armstrong who thinks that it ain't tight till it squeaks...

I didn't even thing of removing the hitch with the fender installed... two screws and the fender is out of your way. I haven't looked but I assume with the rear shock all the way up you could remove mine without taking the fender off the hitch. Do you have a side view of your fender?

Thanks so much for the input.

JT

This was not my last version, that one was aluminum diamond plate painted black. Looked better than the smooth to me and lighter.