• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Mods to fix heat, pulling out all the plugs

bluestratos

bluestratos

New member
After 2 1/2 years and many bandaids later I am going for broke. Here is list of what I am doing (pictures to follow):
  • Removed cat and replace with wrapped Y Pipe
  • Removed header pipes and wrapped
  • Removed the fan shroud and built a fan can from a 5 gal plastic bucket by cutting out the bottom 3 inches. Perfect fit around electric rad fan and forces the hot air away vents by the right foot).
  • Installed thermal blanketing on all body panels including the left and right engine covers
  • Installed thermal blanketing up and over the engine and down and under the fuel tank to keep heat way from tank and seat
  • Removed all intake plastic and installed ISCI filter/intake
  • Blocked off both upper and lower vent openings by right foot
  • Installed "Engine Ice" antifreeze to help improve engine cooling
  • Installed Magnum Tuner to richen up mix to compensate for other changes and to lower engine temps.

The stock air box blocks off the air getting to cylinder heads and makes maintenance difficult. Removing this really opens up the engine and improves passive cooling. I have been using the block off plate on the upper vent up to now but heat leaks out all around it and of course out the bottom vent. I have eliminated this problem now.

The fan can has already been proven to work based on the commercially unit that is available. My "can" took two hours to build, is light weight and duplicates the function. The hot air is now forced in the opposite direction and down out the bottom. The lower stone guard has been removed and modified to allow for air to be pulled down and under the bike.

Obviously the heat has to escape somewhere and when driving there is a high pressure area in front of the engine and a low pressure area behind the radiator so vacuum pulls the heat away is why I have heat coming through my gas door in the seat and up and around where it fits against the body panels.

Idling will always be a problem and likely will still have issues but the hot air will be controlled around the seat. I know Dave has added a bilge blower to improve circulation at an idle and this may be what I will want to do to keep cool air coming in during idle. If so I will figure out how to have it come automatically once the heat rises much like the rad fan.... Ideas?

The bike is still apart in my garage (the wife's car is outside so I need to buy her something nice, lol). I am taking pictures as I go so once the work is done I can add them.






 
I have been looking at putting fans in the grill area similar to Dave. Although it is chilly here in Cincinnati, I am refusing to stop riding until the white stuff flies therefore all of this is just thoughts with a little research being performed recently. Given that I am not planning on removing the stock air box at first, I plan to use an off/on switch similar to what Dave now has. If this proves to have a benefit, I had thought of using either a mechanism so that when the existing fan kicks on it also trips the switch so that the aux fans kick in or the geek in me really wants to use an Arduino to control it but I also know it may be a little overkill. I am not an electrical expert and need to learn a few more things as well as I need to tear the bike apart in order to see if this would create enough air flow out or not.

After seeing Dave's it for sure does on his setup, I saw it drop over 20C in less than a minute so it has potential.

-- added --
I just purchased an infrared temp gun to determine temperatures before anything is changed on the bike. I understand that ambient temps are a lot lower now than when they are in the high 80s or low 90s but this will begin my attempt to document the #s so that we can all share in the #s to determine what is different between those with and without the issues. I have never had a gas cap so hot I couldn't touch it, however it does feel warm, definition of warm to me may be hot or cold to others, however a temp gun will be true and removes me from the equation.
 
Last edited:
Cool (;))...One question, if you pull the airbox out how will you filter the intake air??
Reason I ask is that I've got a dozen heat mods already but I'm going to change plugs, wires (oil) and pull K&N air filter out next week at same time to clean. If I can dump the box somehow, that'd be great..thx
 
Yeah..!!

your pulling out all the stops. Remove or ventilate bottom panels as well...you will be a busy feller...good luck and look forward to your evaluation...:thumbup:
 
Yes, I installed the K&N performance airintake setup from Kewlmetal, one of the sponsors. Of all the parts I have bought that filter housing is nothing but quality!The price is outrageous but they have us by the short hairs on that one, lol.

Right now I have about 30 hours into it but I am starting to button back up now. Part of the work was fixing things that were broken so knock off about 4 hours for that.

The fan can is painted and I am install the brackets to hold it onto the rad via the bolts that hold the fan on. If I can stay on it I should be able to finish this this weekend.

Having fun in Washington State,

Randy :D
 
Last edited:
Randy
When you get time call me @ 706-718-9988 or leave me a number
where I can call you. If need be send it by PM. It's about the tuner
hookup & a couple of things to check.
spyder stryder
Dan
 
bluestratos said:
Yes, I installed the K&N performance air intake setup from Kewlmetal, one of the sponsors. Of all the parts I have bought that filter housing is nothing but quality!The price is outrageous but they have us by the short hairs on that one, lol.
Click to expand...

Not for long...

JT
 
finless said:
OK you got me interested now.... How long? ;)

Bob
Click to expand...

My best guess at this point is about a month or two. I've made a couple of prototypes and they have been tested by some respected members of SpyderLovers and they have provided me with positive feedback on my design. The design is different than the Kewlmetal and uses a paper filter so no oily mess to deal with.

I still have to work out the details for anodizing and get that set up... the rest of the work is done.

This and the trailer hitch fender are the only things holding up the show for me now.

JT
 
jthornton said:
My best guess at this point is about a month or two. I've made a couple of prototypes and they have been tested by some respected members of SpyderLovers and they have provided me with positive feedback on my design. The design is different than the Kewlmetal and uses a paper filter so no oily mess to deal with.

I still have to work out the details for anodizing and get that set up... the rest of the work is done.

This and the trailer hitch fender are the only things holding up the show for me now.

JT
Click to expand...

You can use a paper filter on the KewlMetal intake. Using the K&N is not necessary. There are a few threads on here describing which filters fit.
 
Heat modifications

Thanks for the detailed information on your ideas and progress made up to this point.

one draw back to removing the elaborate air flow piping would be that you eliminate getting somewhat cooler air to the throttle body. The colder the better, density wise.

A second thing is the increased air generated noise increases involuntarily when you unwrap the intake. But your gas mileage may increase by one to three tenths MPG because of increased volume.

Back in the GW daze I got the bright idea of getting more carb air flow and took the air box off and drilled it full of 3/4 inch diameter holes and reinstalled it. When we took our first ride after the drilling I twisted the throttle a lot more then usual the sucking air sound was huge but so was the go!
 
bluestratos said:
After 2 1/2 years and many bandaids later I am going for broke. Here is list of what I am doing (pictures to follow):
  • Removed cat and replace with wrapped Y Pipe
  • Removed header pipes and wrapped
  • Removed the fan shroud and built a fan can from a 5 gal plastic bucket by cutting out the bottom 3 inches. Perfect fit around electric rad fan and forces the hot air away vents by the right foot).
  • Installed thermal blanketing on all body panels including the left and right engine covers
  • Installed thermal blanketing up and over the engine and down and under the fuel tank to keep heat way from tank and seat
  • Removed all intake plastic and installed ISCI filter/intake
  • Blocked off both upper and lower vent openings by right foot
  • Installed "Engine Ice" antifreeze to help improve engine cooling
  • Installed Magnum Tuner to richen up mix to compensate for other changes and to lower engine temps.

The stock air box blocks off the air getting to cylinder heads and makes maintenance difficult. Removing this really opens up the engine and improves passive cooling. I have been using the block off plate on the upper vent up to now but heat leaks out all around it and of course out the bottom vent. I have eliminated this problem now.

The fan can has already been proven to work based on the commercially unit that is available. My "can" took two hours to build, is light weight and duplicates the function. The hot air is now forced in the opposite direction and down out the bottom. The lower stone guard has been removed and modified to allow for air to be pulled down and under the bike.

Obviously the heat has to escape somewhere and when driving there is a high pressure area in front of the engine and a low pressure area behind the radiator so vacuum pulls the heat away is why I have heat coming through my gas door in the seat and up and around where it fits against the body panels.

Idling will always be a problem and likely will still have issues but the hot air will be controlled around the seat. I know Dave has added a bilge blower to improve circulation at an idle and this may be what I will want to do to keep cool air coming in during idle. If so I will figure out how to have it come automatically once the heat rises much like the rad fan.... Ideas?

The bike is still apart in my garage (the wife's car is outside so I need to buy her something nice, lol). I am taking pictures as I go so once the work is done I can add them.




Someone needs to try taking off the rear black liner above the tire and replace it with mesh looks to me like it would let a lot of air out of the engine compartment
Click to expand...
Someone needs to try and take off the black plastic liner above the rear tire and replace it with mesh or louvered it looks like that would let out a lot of hot air
 
Last edited:
jerpinoy said:
How many man hours you spend doing this? Can you get voucher from BRP if your effort work.?
Click to expand...

OK, I'll admit that the only other motorcycle forums I've been on have been Harley forums. But I was on them for over 6 years and not once did I ever see someone suggest that Harley Davidson should pay for anyone's work, regardless of how successful it was.

What the heck is it with people who buy Spyders that they expect to be reimbursed in some form or fashion for their efforts to resolve what they think are problems???:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: Is it because they've never owned motorcycles before?? :dontknow::dontknow: Or is it because they think a $20,000+ purchase entitles them to additional consideration?? :dontknow::dontknow:

Can someone explain this to me??
 
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