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Modifying a stock handlebar

thanks for the info on the bars

I think this was a one time deal, but maybe not. The seller was liquidnation. Your best bet is to regularly search ebay. The
best deal will be used, salvage, old stock clearance, etc. BRP won't allow dealers to advertise anything but MSRP on ebay for current items.

As time permits I will keep searching.
Thanks again.
Really looking foreword to getting my Spyder.
 
I realize this is a pretty old thread, but it looked like as good a place as any to ask my question.

I am pretty happy with the height and front to back placement of the handlebars on our 2014 RT, but I would like to have them about 3" closer together on each side. Is there a safe and economical way to do that? I did a couple of searches using the "Advanced Search" feature and came up with nothing. A video would be really great if someone has a link to one.


On another note: someone mentioned lower back pain and thought moving the bars back would help with that. Once upon a time, I worked as an exercise physiologist in back rehab. Before moving the bars back creating a more upright riding position, think about what that does to your spine. It puts more of your upper body weight right on top of your lower vertebrae. A slight forward lean at the waist is far safer for your lower back than sitting straight up. That position allows your spine to flex naturally with bumps and moves upper body weight forward a bit onto your hands, arms & shoulders. The down side (or upside depending on your perspective) of the forward position is it requires a little better physical conditioning to maintain for long periods of time while riding.
 
Bob, I've seen the Tri-Axis bars and it appears as though the only way to get the bars closer is to also have them move back. Due to my own post surgical back situation, I cannot do that. It puts too much vertical pressure on my lower back. Appreciate the suggestion and video just the same though. :thumbup:

I'm wondering if there were enough demand, BRP might consider width choices in handlebars; maybe even something that is a retro-fit. I'm not a real big guy (5'4") and the wide bars cause a lot of fatigue in the middle of my back and both shoulders due to my short "wing span". :yikes:
 
Bob, I've seen the Tri-Axis bars and it appears as though the only way to get the bars closer is to also have them move back...and the wide bars cause a lot of fatigue in the middle of my back and both shoulders due to my short "wing span". :yikes:

I probably don't correctly grasp your physical post surgery situation but if you bring the ends of both bars closer toward you (I read that "back") you are also going to bring the ends of the bars closer to each other (shortening the bar wing span so to speak) which would reduce the stretch of your wing span. I have never played with my bars to see the total adjustment range because I've always made changes in small increments to get the fit just right for me.
 
I probably don't correctly grasp your physical post surgery situation but if you bring the ends of both bars closer toward you (I read that "back") you are also going to bring the ends of the bars closer to each other (shortening the bar wing span so to speak) which would reduce the stretch of your wing span. I have never played with my bars to see the total adjustment range because I've always made changes in small increments to get the fit just right for me.

I need them closer to each other but not closer to me. Closer to me (my body) causes a more upright seating position which I cannot do. Having them closer to each other relieves the stretch/reach required that is causing muscle tension between my shoulder-blades. The ideal configuration for me (in my mind----scary place; I know) would be closer together and about an inch or two forward of where the stock bars are now.
 
Bob, I've seen the Tri-Axis bars and it appears as though the only way to get the bars closer is to also have them move back. Due to my own post surgical back situation, I cannot do that. It puts too much vertical pressure on my lower back. Appreciate the suggestion and video just the same though. :thumbup:

I'm wondering if there were enough demand, BRP might consider width choices in handlebars; maybe even something that is a retro-fit. I'm not a real big guy (5'4") and the wide bars cause a lot of fatigue in the middle of my back and both shoulders due to my short "wing span". :yikes:

Because of the "composit" nature of the RT handle bars, I doubt BRP or anyone really would make alternative handlebars.

Bob
 
Because of the "composit" nature of the RT handle bars, I doubt BRP or anyone really would make alternative handlebars.

Bob

You are probably right; but I do have an alternative plan for adding a new place to rest my hands, shoulders, back while on the open road. I'm already working out details --- in my mind. :yikes:
 
Understand the problem now. I agree with Bob, if you found someone who would make the bar covers they would probably be very expensive.
 
Bob, I've seen the Tri-Axis bars and it appears as though the only way to get the bars closer is to also have them move back. Due to my own post surgical back situation, I cannot do that. It puts too much vertical pressure on my lower back. Appreciate the suggestion and video just the same though. :thumbup:

I'm wondering if there were enough demand, BRP might consider width choices in handlebars; maybe even something that is a retro-fit. I'm not a real big guy (5'4") and the wide bars cause a lot of fatigue in the middle of my back and both shoulders due to my short "wing span". :yikes:
As I understand it you need to lean forward some to keep your back comfortable and the spread of your arms is what you need to reduce. You're correct in that bringing the grips closer together on the Tri-axis bar brings them rearward also. But not only that but the angle of the grips with respect to the bike centerline changes so you have to turn your hands outward. That could cause your wrists be uncomfortable.

Be aware that if you bring your hands in closer to the pivot point of the handlebars you will increase the amount of push and pull required to steer. You know, the longer the lever the less the force required. Bringing the grips in toward the center 3" would probably be way too much.

I just looked at the stock handlebar center piece I took off. IMO any sort of inward adjustment just isn't practical with the stock handlebar nor with the Tri-axis bar. Your best bet would be to have a custom center piece built by a machinist/welder. That might even cost less than the Tri-axis handlebar. The hand grips are on tubes that are easily separated from the stock centerpiece so can be fastened to any custom center piece. Probably wouldn't look quite as good as the OEM, but sometimes beauty has to take second place to function. I also would be hesitant to try to modify the stock centerpiece since it is made of some die-cast metal that probably cannot be readily cut and welded and still be absolutely safe.
 
I read this post and wonder how do you know that you need a 1" adjustment?
My neck has been bothering me lately on my rides. I just figured it was stress
 
I just looked at the stock handlebar center piece I took off.

Back to the original question:
This was asked WAY back there and never answered, or I didn't see it:
Couldn't a "simple" riser be added at the center piece ?

Since you have one off maybe you could venture an educated guess.
 
Look on ebay for black ones that have a best offer. I got mine 1 year ago for 400.00 with free shipping still new in box. They were somewhere in California. A lot are just sitting on shelf's and they just want them gone. I did mine myself and I did not see of anyway you could add risers.
 
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Back to the original question:
This was asked WAY back there and never answered, or I didn't see it:
Couldn't a "simple" riser be added at the center piece ?

Since you have one off maybe you could venture an educated guess.
It probably could be. Here's a pic of the bottom side of the center piece. The mounting plate on the top of the steering shaft is flat. There might be a problem with the ignition wires and the seat and frunk cables getting tight. The ignition switch mounts where you see the two holes on the flat piece.


Bottom side handlebar.jpg
 
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Back to the original question:
This was asked WAY back there and never answered, or I didn't see it:
Couldn't a "simple" riser be added at the center piece ?

Since you have one off maybe you could venture an educated guess.

That is what I'm thinking but kind of opposite of IdahoMtnSpyder's goal. Like a set of bars that allow for a place just slightly forward and moved in to provide a spot to rest your hands but that would not have and controls on them. They would also need to be out of the way of all other controls and strong enough to steer the bike to full stop to stop positions; although the primary purpose would be as a "relief position" when cruising down the road on cruise control.

I already frequently rest my hands on the blanks spots just to the inside of the controls. While that does help some, it is not as comfortable as I would like. I'm thinking an add-on that would nearly or completely duplicate the OEM grips in a different position would be much better.

Now, I'm not an artist of any kind (especially with a computer) but where the blue lines are in the picture, try imagine a set of "handlebars" attached at the bottom and supported up the incline part of the original bars (possibly attached at a couple of points on the front side of the angled part) and extending maybe 1" to 1.5" above and in front of the controls on each side. There would only be some comfortable grips on them but no attempt to move controls. This is what I'm attempting to fabricate, but trying to do so in a way that does not alter the original bars in any way and is easily removable if need be.
 

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I already frequently rest my hands on the blanks spots just to the inside of the controls. While that does help some, it is not as comfortable as I would like. I'm thinking an add-on that would nearly or completely duplicate the OEM grips in a different position would be much better.

You probably won't like my next comment.

I think the time and effort and $$$ expended on that would WAY exceed it's real value.
But I can't really gauge YOUR degree of discomfort.

I think a lot of people these days, younger ones mostly, spend WAY too much time worrying about things not being EXACTLY as they want them.

I don't really blame them because their parent's generation taught them that they can have anything they want, exactly as they want and immediately if not sooner. BAD mistake. Hard to fix.
 
That is what I'm thinking but kind of opposite of IdahoMtnSpyder's goal. Like a set of bars that allow for a place just slightly forward and moved in to provide a spot to rest your hands but that would not have and controls on them. They would also need to be out of the way of all other controls and strong enough to steer the bike to full stop to stop positions; although the primary purpose would be as a "relief position" when cruising down the road on cruise control.

I already frequently rest my hands on the blanks spots just to the inside of the controls. While that does help some, it is not as comfortable as I would like. I'm thinking an add-on that would nearly or completely duplicate the OEM grips in a different position would be much better.

Now, I'm not an artist of any kind (especially with a computer) but where the blue lines are in the picture, try imagine a set of "handlebars" attached at the bottom and supported up the incline part of the original bars (possibly attached at a couple of points on the front side of the angled part) and extending maybe 1" to 1.5" above and in front of the controls on each side. There would only be some comfortable grips on them but no attempt to move controls. This is what I'm attempting to fabricate, but trying to do so in a way that does not alter the original bars in any way and is easily removable if need be.
I'm pretty sure I understand what you're wanting to do, but two questions. Would you be comfortable having your hands and arms raised above the current level as they would need to be to give you clearance between the new grips and the handlebar? And second, do you think you would have your hands up there and not at the controls enough of the time to justify doing this? If the biggest share of your riding is out on the open road using cruise control then I can see this idea as a viable possibility. But, if much of your riding is around city streets or curvy roads which require operating the throttle and shift paddle, then I would be skeptical.
 
I'm 6'2". I have mine set full out and full foward. My tech calls it "moto x drag bars". Just gives me more room to move around as we ride two up alot. It's a stretch for some, but comfortable to me as I have a long reach.
 
You probably won't like my next comment.

I think the time and effort and $$$ expended on that would WAY exceed it's real value.
But I can't really gauge YOUR degree of discomfort.

I think a lot of people these days, younger ones mostly, spend WAY too much time worrying about things not being EXACTLY as they want them.

I don't really blame them because their parent's generation taught them that they can have anything they want, exactly as they want and immediately if not sooner. BAD mistake. Hard to fix.

I appreciate the (mis)conception of me being young; especially at my age (63). I do want things exactly the way I want, but am not in a huge hurry to get it right away. As for expending a lot time and effort, it's sort of a hobby of mine to fabricate things I need, but I rarely spend a lot of money on my projects. I have fun being innovative and when something does not work out exactly as I intended, I still try to have learned from the process. It took at least six versions of building a custom seat to get one just right on my sport-touring bike several years ago. While I spent a lot of time and effort on it but very little money, I also learned a lot about what makes a good seat and what does not; both in type of material and shape. In the end the experience helped me to build my next two seats for different bikes on the first try and they turned out perfect.
 
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