• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Mode button doesn't work! Can't start! Help?

Marek

Member
Hi, could can anyone help me solve my problem with Spyder ST LTD Y2013? After turning the key on, the start screen appears but the mode button does not work. So I can't start Spyder. Other on-board computer buttons as well as the turn signal switch do not work either. The hazard warning lights work normally. I checked all fuses and relays - are OK. Battery voltage is 12V after turning on the key. Other times, Spyder bypasses the start screen and after starting it gives the message "check engine" check gearbox ".The button does not activate gears. I will be grateful for any suggestion. Regards.
 
A good battery that is fully charged should read more than 12 volts. I would suggest taking the battery out and going to NAPA or whatever auto parts stores are closest to get it load tested. Clean the terminals real good and be sure they are tight enough when you put it back in. If the bike has been in storage for a long time, you might just try putting a charge on the battery.

Also check the other end of the ground cable to see that there is no corrosion and it is tight.
 
There is never any harm in load testing the battery and checking if it is still good. Sure go ahead and do that.

That said, by your description, It's a Can Bus problem. Maybe as simple as the left handlebar controls just need to be replaced. That's easy enough to change but expensive. The wiring diagram does not show how the chip in the left controls is powered. Maybe through the running lights. So do the running lights come on with the key? (front fender lights and taillights)
 
Yes, these lights come on normally when the ignition is on.
Battery checked, charged - works well, electrical connections checked and cleaned ... what else, ideas, suggestions.

Works only the horn sounds in the switch on the left side of the steering wheel. However, the F5 (load shedding) fuse in the right box is again blown. I don't know what else protects this fuse and why it burns out. Have you met with a similar case?
 
There is never any harm in load testing the battery and checking if it is still good. Sure go ahead and do that.

:agree: especially with multiple faults, battery likely the main issue. Charged or not at very least, you should try try disconnecting & cleaning terminals. Good time for adding star washers, help keep the bolts tight when your done.
You may have gotten lucky & battery lasted longer than average 3-5yr, but sounds like it’s time is up
 
Be certain you are pressing firmly on the brake pedal.
Hey Marek, you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner in three different countries without having to go very far. I've been to Poland, it's a beautiful country and I could easily live there. I love the milk bars.
 
Yes, these lights come on normally when the ignition is on.
Battery checked, charged - works well, electrical connections checked and cleaned ... what else, ideas, suggestions.

Works only the horn sounds in the switch on the left side of the steering wheel. However, the F5 (load shedding) fuse in the right box is again blown. I don't know what else protects this fuse and why it burns out. Have you met with a similar case?

Load shedding is part of the shut down process. Whatever blew the fuse should have left a code.
 
Be certain you are pressing firmly on the brake pedal.
Hey Marek, you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner in three different countries without having to go very far. I've been to Poland, it's a beautiful country and I could easily live there. I love the milk bars.

Milk Bars ?! ... it's good for students but it was a long time ago :) With this brake it would be good if Spyder allowed to put the gear on :(
I spent some time in Your country - I also enjoyed it there. Regards
 
I had a similar problem on my 2013 STS.
Left switch module would not work. Fuse blown. Bike would not start.
Turned out to be a short in the wiring to the Left Rear Turn Signal.

If I recall correctly the load shedding relay senses a passenger on the rear seat.
The load sensing switch in on the underside of the passenger seat.

Good Luck. David C.
 
The load shedding relay turns on some accessories only when the engine is running. That is to prevent excessive current draw on the battery.

Fuse F5 in the right fuse box powers the horn and load shedding relay.

The load shedding relay powers the suspension relay, the front heated grips and fog lights in North America. Since you are in Poland the fog light thing should not apply to you.

The suspension relay is not really necessary since the 2013 STL did not come with self adjusting ride height rear suspension. It is R4 in the right fuse box. Pull it out and leave it out.

There may be a short in the heated grips or their wiring. Does the fuse blow when you turn on the heated grips?
 
The load shedding relay powers the suspension relay, the front heated grips and fog lights in North America. Since you are in Poland the fog light thing should not apply to you.

The suspension relay is not really necessary since the 2013 STL did not come with self adjusting ride height rear suspension. It is R4 in the right fuse box. Pull it out and leave it out.

There may be a short in the heated grips or their wiring. Does the fuse blow when you turn on the heated grips?


I will check the F5, if it has to do with heating the grips. I have fog lights. I will try to disconnect them.
I will also remove R4.
 
The load shedding relay is R3 in the right fuse box. You can pull it out if you like too. The fog lights and grip heaters will no longer work. Also it may cause a fault and check engine light. Not sure about that one.
 
The reason for the fault was prosaic. The connector connecting the control on the buttons on the left handle disconnected. Unfortunately, finding the source of the fault was not easy and required the intervention of an authorized service center.
Thank you to everyone in this forum who tried to help.

Greetings from Poland.
 
Back
Top