Missing Air Dam Experience

[bone crusher]

If your leg is getting real hot, make sure the "Y" gasket is not blown. To check the "Y" gasket put your hand inside the open slot next to your right knee with the engine running, stopped with parking brake engaged and being careful not to touch the exhaust pipe.

If you feel hot air circulating, you have a blown "Y" gasket!

A common mistake is thinking your Spyder doesn't have enough miles on it to have a blown gasket. Also, it could be blown again even if a dealership replaced it last month. The stock gasket can blow out in a heart beat, I know from experience along with many others on this forum. The Honda gasket is the only way to get any mileage out of the "Y" connection on the right side.

The nice part about using the Honda gasket is that most Honda shops have them in stock. Part# 18392-MAM-000

Another consideration is having that hot exhaust blowing on the engine case will most certainly cause your Spyder to run hotter no matter how much air is going through the radiator.

If you really want to test the "Missing Air Dam" take a ride without installing it on a hot day and take note of the ambient temp. and the water temp. Install the "Missing Air Dam" and take another ride on the same route, same ambient temp. and see how the water temp. reacts.

All of my testing has been conducted in this manner, apples to apples!

Harvey,

Please post a pic of what you are referring to so I know where to check...also, never had this problem until the air dam was installed...never felt hot air on the right leg before...

Sure, the 'Y' gasket can blow, but the timing would be purely coincidendal? The air dam has no effect on the gasket? Timing on this is a little odd...can the 'Y' gasket be changed by a mere mortal such as myself or does it require a trip to the shop (or the help of a very smart HD guy?)

Also, http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/302831-honda-18392-mam-000-hard-parts-gasket-b-muffler is the part I need?

Thanks...

Oh, until this is fixed (if this is the problem...haveta check)...does this create damage to the bike?

 

[SpyderWolf]

Harvey,

Please post a pic of what you are referring to so I know where to check...also, never had this problem until the air dam was installed...never felt hot air on the right leg before...

Sure, the 'Y' gasket can blow, but the timing would be purely coincidendal? The air dam has no effect on the gasket? Timing on this is a little odd...can the 'Y' gasket be changed by a mere mortal such as myself or does it require a trip to the shop (or the help of a very smart HD guy?)

Also, http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/302831-honda-18392-mam-000-hard-parts-gasket-b-muffler is the part I need?

Thanks...

Oh, until this is fixed (if this is the problem...haveta check)...does this create damage to the bike?

Check out this thread by Wacky Dan, as it has directions and pictures of the Y Gasket replacement process:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19691

I replaced mine this weekend, and I only found half of the right one so the rest must have burned away. My Spyder was not only louder, I could also smell fuel, and it started sputtering as well. I thought the bad running might be the spark plugs, so I replaced them while I was at it just to be on the safe side.

That is also the correct part number you want.

On a side note, does anyone know where to get a replacement clamp from for the Y connections? Mine are rusted pretty badly already. :dontknow:

 

[Yazz]

Usually the indication of a bad Y gasket is noise fumes and excessive heat. And not necessarily in that order
For some reason right side gives out first.
Mine started to get loud at about 8 thousand, at 11 thousand the right side was totally fried.

Thanks for the basic things to watch out for. Took Spydee for a test run today. Watched for the above things and check for hot air circulating per Repops.

Air temp. 92. First mile, stayed under three bars and rode great. After the first mile, the bars went up to five, at six, could see when the fan kicked in. She never got lower than five bars at full speed or at a red light for the rest of the ryde. The longer we rode, the more she would "pop" on deceleration. Coming into the neighborhood in first gear, she stuttered again.

Wore shorts and tennis shoes to feel the difference in heat on the right side vs. the left. On the right side, could feel the heat coming from beside the brake lever like Repops said it would. But also, as the ryde went on, the area by my calf got unbearable hot. Like Ouch!

1 -Milage - almost 7,000 miles.
2- Noise - Couldn't tell. Have Duel Three Bros.
3 -Fumes - At stop lights, smelt slight exhaust smell.
4- Heat - Engine doesn't cool down at high speeds. Panel that right calf rests on was uncomfortably hot. Left leg just fine.

While the engine was hot and running, slipped my hand in between the panels. Felt slight hot air circulation aft of my hand. Rear skinny panel was very hot to the touch where it butts up with the middle/forward panel.

Does it sound like I need to replace a "Y" gasket? Any other ideas?
Did I tell you I'm leaving for a bike rally next Tuesday?:gaah:

 

[boborgera]

While the engine was hot and running, slipped my hand in between the panels. Felt slight hot air circulation aft of my hand. Rear skinny panel was very hot to the touch where it butts up with the middle/forward panel.

Does it sound like I need to replace a "Y" gasket? Any other ideas?
Did I tell you I'm leaving for a bike rally next Tuesday?:gaah:

When the engine/pipes are COLD, Start the engine put one hand close to the Y gasket right side[careful gets hot quick] then with the other hand rev. the engine up and down, If it's leaking you should hear and feel it.
Remember it gets very hot very fast. Also you might see black carbon stains around the gasket joint?

 

[Yazz]

When the engine/pipes are COLD, Start the engine put one hand close to the Y gasket right side[careful gets hot quick] then with the other hand rev. the engine up and down, If it's leaking you should hear and feel it.
Remember it gets very hot very fast. Also you might see black carbon stains around the gasket joint?

Thanks to Wacky Dan's descriptions and pictures was able to tear Spydee apart enough to see the "Y" gasket. No carbon stains from what I could see.

The engine is still hot. Will wait till evening to do the don't burn your hand test. Was wondering if putting soapy water around the gasket and watching for bubbles while reving would give the same results? I'm a wimp...pps:

 

[jabba11]

Today was a good test. rode to work OAT 92 degrees and very humid. I drive the same route to work everyday. It is about 7 miles city and 13 highway. In town no real difference with the air dam (slow warm up to 5 bars and fan and no 6 bars or higher). At 45 mph 4 bars 55 mph 4 bars for awhiel then 3 bars at 70 mph three bars. these readings are consistently 1 bar lower than it was before...

 

[boborgera]

Thanks to Wacky Dan's descriptions and pictures was able to tear Spydee apart enough to see the "Y" gasket. No carbon stains from what I could see.

The engine is still hot. Will wait till evening to do the don't burn your hand test. Was wondering if putting soapy water around the gasket and watching for bubbles while revving would give the same results? I'm a wimp...pps:

All you'll see is smoke [steam] and the pungent smell of soap.

 

[Yazz]

All you'll see is smoke [steam] and the pungent smell of soap.

Howja know?:yikes:

Will let her cool down and do it the manly way...

 

[bone crusher]

Howja know?:yikes:

Will let her cool down and do it the manly way...

Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

 

[SSG Bean]

Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

It was already mentioned in this thread that mileage does not matter. I had to replace mine before I ever hit 1000 miles. I replaced them again at around 4500 with the honda pieces. I've only gone about 1000 mi since then, but I inspected the exhaust this weekend and everything was pretty good. I did notice that I had to tighten the clamps a bit, but everything else was good.

I don't think your timing is odd at all. Think about the changes you just stated. Doing the updates tends to make it run more lean, in turn, the exhaust is hotter and will burn the gasket more quickly. Perfectly logical.

The exhaust is easy to pull apart. Remove the springs, loosen the clamps, remove the black rubber hanger from the bottom of the spyder to gain room to drop it, and just pull them apart.

 

[bone crusher]

It was already mentioned in this thread that mileage does not matter. I had to replace mine before I ever hit 1000 miles. I replaced them again at around 4500 with the honda pieces. I've only gone about 1000 mi since then, but I inspected the exhaust this weekend and everything was pretty good. I did notice that I had to tighten the clamps a bit, but everything else was good.

I don't think your timing is odd at all. Think about the changes you just stated. Doing the updates tends to make it run more lean, in turn, the exhaust is hotter and will burn the gasket more quickly. Perfectly logical.

The exhaust is easy to pull apart. Remove the springs, loosen the clamps, remove the black rubber hanger from the bottom of the spyder to gain room to drop it, and just pull them apart.

Thanks Bean...am going to proceed with this as most think this is the problem...will report back when it's done...(have gaskets on the way)...

BTW, how long should the Honda gaskets last?

 

[Yazz]

Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

 

[Some Guy]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

You should replace both at the same time. You already have to take all the parts off anyway, why do it again? (remember...YOU are the mechanic of most of us!!!) I did mine about 2 weeks before we met in Cuba and it made a huge difference. Like I posted on another thread, my right side gasket was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen! nojoke I saved it to show people!!!

See you (and Jeff???) in Chicago!!!

 

[SpyderWolf]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

Believe it or not, the left side may still be perfectly fine. However, you cannot really disconnect one and work on it without disconnecting the other side, so you may as well take care of them both at the same time.

 

[boborgera]

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

You'll probably find that when you lower the Y pipes the left gasket is on it's last legs, like spyderwolf and someguy said replace both it won't take any longer to do.:thumbup:

 

[bone crusher]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

Anyone got specs on those screws for the clamps? Is stainless the best way to go or is bronze?

 

[Yazz]

You should replace both at the same time. You already have to take all the parts off anyway, why do it again? (remember...YOU are the mechanic of most of us!!!) I did mine about 2 weeks before we met in Cuba and it made a huge difference. Like I posted on another thread, my right side gasket was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen! nojoke I saved it to show people!!!

See you (and Jeff???) in Chicago!!!

Can't make it to Chicago this year. Son is getting married in July. Already have reservations at RRI. See Ya there! Oops... forgot your not going.:roflblack:

Thank Ya'll for the advice. With all the flurry going on getting ready for the rally, tried to do the "Never time to do it right, always time to do it twice" thing. Glad everyone set me right.:bowdown:

Switching over to Wacky Dan's Y gasket thread...

 

[Yazz]

Installed new "Y" gaskets (both sides) and took the same test ryde as above. Three bars in the wind, five bars at stop lights. No heat emanating from the right side panels. No more stuttering.:doorag:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Installed new "Y" gaskets (both sides) and took the same test ryde as above. Three bars in the wind, five bars at stop lights. No heat emanating from the right side panels. No more stuttering.:doorag:

:2thumbs:

What about the new screws for your clamps? Did the Honda ones work? I am probably going to look for some new clamps to use next time, if I can find them anywhere.

 

[aka1004]

last two days in palm springs were 103 and 105 degrees and air dam have basically lost it's effectiveness. i don't have a temp gauge so i can only go by temp bar on spyder so it may be running 10 degrees cooler :dontknow:.
i was mostly traveling on 45-55 highway with traffic lights and spyder had very hard time bring it down to 4 bars even when running at consistent 45-55 for 3-6 minutes. i think it only happened twice today but spyder had hard time bringing it down to 4 bars without the air dam anyway but it feels to me that when i am sitting at a light, temp goes up quicker than without the air dam. not by much but sometimes it goes up so quick to 6 bars. i am just guessing but could loosing some of the metal surface that used to dissipate heat by attaching air dam to radiator cause this?:dontknow:
i did not use the manual fan switch to test out the air dam today but i will be utilizing them if i anticipate even a little stop and go traffic when it's hot.