Hey guys, I need some help here. Recently bought a 2012 Spyder RTL. took it for a couple of short rides and ran good. then all of a sudden started running bad. here are the symptoms.... stalling, front cylinder not firing. has spark and fuel. i replaced the plugs and wires, i also replaced the map sensor for a code it had. i cleaned all the connectors, checked the filters replace the vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body. i did some testing today and found when the cylinder is misfiring that it is getting spark and fuel. I thought I had an intake valve sticking because you can hear a clacking noise when it misfires and there is air being forced out of the throttle body instead of sucking in, on that front cylinder. I added some Yamalube fuel treatment today hoping if it was a stuck valve that it would free it up. Got everything back together and went for a 20 mile drive. ran great the whole time. i got home and parked it thinking i had solved the problem but when i restarted it, it started misfiring again, so disappointing. I think I have done everything i can at this point and am on the verge of sending to the dealer. I have been a mechanic for 40 years but I don't have the proper diagnostic equipment to work on this. I would appreciate any thought you might have. Thank you
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Misfire issue need help
- Thread starter JG2012
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
IMHO you have done what is Normally needed to fix this issue .... however the early V-twins also had throttle body issues that only " re-placing it " was the cure .... I believe BRP had either a re-call or TBS for the throttle body's .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
MrMagicFingers
Member
Are there any codes shown?
Tim
Tim
safecracker
Active member
I could not find the P0196, but the P2279.....Intake air system leak, check for cracked Plenum, intake or throttle body air leak. You could have cracked air intake boots. I just had mine replaced about a month ago. They were cracked. Bruce
If you take it apart again look at the intake flanges ( the rubber boots that the throttle bodys attach to ). They can become hardened and crack. With it running you can try spraying soapy water or something non flammable on them to see if there are any bubbles if you don't see cracking.
BajaRon
Well-known member
The 2 small vacuum hoses should be tight. If one popped off, it may not be snug enough and may still be leaking. You might try plugging the PCV hose and see if that helps. Another potential source for a vacuum leak.
i installed new hoses and they are tight. sprayed everything with carb cleaner and no leaks. a couple of things happen when this occurs. 1) i feel a lot of air being pushed out of the throttle body for that cylinder while the other one is sucking in. There is spark when this happens. 2) when I try to accelerate it either just bogs with no throttle response or it will creep foreward with loud banging noise and heavy vibration...
PMK
Active member
Suggest, accomplish a compression test. Accomplish both a cranking with throttle bodies removed or throttles wide open. Then accomplish a differential test while preventing crankshaft rotation away from top center. The information from both will indicate your engines mechanical condition of the top end.
PMK
Active member
Accomplishing the first cranking compression check will provide cranking cylinder PSI and the ability to check for similar PSI.
When accomplishing a differential or leakdown test, ideally you have the ability to bring the cylinder being tested to top center on compression stroke. To prevent crankshaft rotation, since leakdowns are not done with the engine spinning, it is best to use a breaker bar or similar to prevent movement of the crankshaft when air pressure is applied. With the crankshaft held, and moderate, say 40 psi applied into the cylinder via the tool, you can verify if the intake valve, exhaust valve or rings have significant leakage. Most times leakage will be either actual airflow or hearing airflow through the throttle body, exhaust system tailpipe, or dipstick tube.
If the engine moves away from top center, it is possible with the piston near bottom center, a valve may be opened normally and could be mistaken as a concern.
Similar threads
