• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

if you add the kewl intake do you have to add a juice box--will it change how rich or lean the engine runs ?

It depends on what else you've done to your bike. It seems that the 3 main things that people do that would affect the FI are adding a silencer, removing the cat and opening up the air intake. These will typically make the bike run leaner. The stock ECU seems to adjust just fine to any one of these mods. It's when you do two or more that people start noticing the lean conditions. If you have a 2013 RT / ST, there is a new ECM that was just released which I'm guessing will richen up the FI map, so that update might allow for even more adjustability from the stock unit. Since I am doing all three, I am playing it safe and going straight to the PCV.
 
It depends on what else you've done to your bike. It seems that the 3 main things that people do that would affect the FI are adding a silencer, removing the cat and opening up the air intake. These will typically make the bike run leaner. The stock ECU seems to adjust just fine to any one of these mods. It's when you do two or more that people start noticing the lean conditions. If you have a 2013 RT / ST, there is a new ECM that was just released which I'm guessing will richen up the FI map, so that update might allow for even more adjustability from the stock unit. Since I am doing all three, I am playing it safe and going straight to the PCV.



I fully agree and would do it add the Fuel control module. After much deliberation I think the Auto Tune is the way to go that is what i ma doing. I am only going to do the single channel. I am convinced the changes discussed here will make at least 30-70 deg F difference under the Tupperware and will validate that with an infared temp gun. While moving I think it will stabilize slightly over ambient plus 50 deg. Yes I am convinced it will make that big of a difference.
 
I fully agree and would do it add the Fuel control module. After much deliberation I think the Auto Tune is the way to go that is what i ma doing. I am only going to do the single channel. I am convinced the changes discussed here will make at least 30-70 deg F difference under the Tupperware and will validate that with an infared temp gun. While moving I think it will stabilize slightly over ambient plus 50 deg. Yes I am convinced it will make that big of a difference.

I think the AutoTune is a good investment. Just knowing that your bike is always being adjusted for the conditions in real time is awesome. For the single channel, I'm guessing you'll be using the front header pipe for the O2 sensor bung. I only found one spot on the rear header where it can go and even with that, it will barely clear the frame rail and outer body panel. I was hoping to get them back today so that I could photos of their locations, but the shop still hasn't been able to finish them. I am hoping to get them next weekend.

I'll be looking forward to the results of the before and after heat gun readings. I fully agree that there will be a big difference. Even though the airbox removal doesn't do anything to directly reduce heat, like the heat wrap or ceramic coating, I think the amount of open space it creates will be significant for moving the hot air out of there.
 
I think the AutoTune is a good investment. Just knowing that your bike is always being adjusted for the conditions in real time is awesome. For the single channel, I'm guessing you'll be using the front header pipe for the O2 sensor bung. I only found one spot on the rear header where it can go and even with that, it will barely clear the frame rail and outer body panel. I was hoping to get them back today so that I could photos of their locations, but the shop still hasn't been able to finish them. I am hoping to get them next weekend.

I'll be looking forward to the results of the before and after heat gun readings. I fully agree that there will be a big difference. Even though the airbox removal doesn't do anything to directly reduce heat, like the heat wrap or ceramic coating, I think the amount of open space it creates will be significant for moving the hot air out of there.


I absolutely agree on the Auto Tune and the mechanic I am working with has connections with some folks at Power Commander so they are chatting about the initial MAP. The dealership I have is outstanding they listen they discuss and with me doing a good deal of the work and they are doing the under the hood stuff because they will be under there anyways to do the recall work in addition to the changes discuss above. They are also going to look into the laser alignment system and the owner is talking seriously about getting one for the Wisconsin area.

I was thinking the single wide band sensor may be better off in the rear cylinder because it is the one running lean but that may change with additional air movement the machine will now have. When you get your pipes back post some pics I appreciate the discussion and ideas.
 
I was thinking the single wide band sensor may be better off in the rear cylinder because it is the one running lean but that may change with additional air movement the machine will now have. When you get your pipes back post some pics I appreciate the discussion and ideas.

I'd check your plugs first before deciding which header to put it on. My rear cylinder is running richer than the front which is the opposite of what I expected.

I called the shop and they still don't have my headers done yet. They are promising me that I will have them by this up coming Friday. If I get them, I'll post photos right away so you can see where I had them place the O2 bungs for each header pipe.
 
This weekend I got the KewlMetal air filter installed along with the BajaRon ignition wire set. I replaced the ignition wires because I have seen posts where there have been problems with the OEM wires and since I have the bike all torn apart, now is the time to replace them.

Here are pictures that show how much space has been opened up by getting rid of the OEM air box. The first picture is from the left side and the second is from the right.

Air Filter - Left Side.jpg Air Filter - Right Side.jpg

This picture really gives a good perspective of how much open space there is now in the upper part of the Tupperware. There is a benefit of letting the engine breath better, but I see the main advantage as being able to access the motor and everything else in there.

Air Filter - Right Side - 2.jpg
 
While I was working on the bike today, I happened to notice that there are grease fittings at the top of where each A-arm connects to the frame. There are 4 on each side for a total of 8. I had no idea they were there. I greased them up and am now looking for others.

Grease Fittings.jpg
 
Got the Kewl Metal AF today on the agenda for Sunday

Have you removed the OEM airbox / resonator yet? The KewlMetal installation only takes 10 minutes. Removing the OEM stuff is where all the pain is. If you haven't done it yet, then make sure that you are in the right frame of mind because you will need a lot of patience to get it out. I almost took a saw and cut that POS out of there :)
 
I received the Limiting Collar update for the BajaRon Sway Bar, so I decided to get that installed today. Some people have had problems with the sway bar moving from side to side. Here is what the collars look like:

Sway Bar Collar - 1.jpg

My sway bar would have about an inch of play from side to side, so the first thing to do was to manually center it. Then one collar goes on each side of the sway bar to the outside of the bushing block. Here is a view from the left side of the sway bar. The collar can be seen on the right in front of the bushing block.

Sway Bar Collar - 2.jpg

Here is a view of the left side sway bar looking at it head on from the front of the bike. You can see the collar to the left.

Sway Bar Collar - 3.jpg

Overall, this was incredibly easy to install. Nothing has to come apart or taken off to get it done. It is an in place update. Thanks to Ron for keeping it simple.
 
After changing the oil today, I decided to drain the anti-freeze and replace it with a high performance aftermarket product. In our current line up of motocross bikes and my previous street bikes, I would run the Liquid Performance anti-freeze. My buddy's shop switched to Engine Ice. He says that it is just as good, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Anti-Freeze.jpg
 
was told

After changing the oil today, I decided to drain the anti-freeze and replace it with a high performance aftermarket product. In our current line up of motocross bikes and my previous street bikes, I would run the Liquid Performance anti-freeze. My buddy's shop switched to Engine Ice. He says that it is just as good, so I figured I'd give it a try.

View attachment 83074

i was told that BRP is using a different type of antifreeze in their 4 wheelers for less heat. i wonder why they don't also do it to the bikes that have heat problems when they update the software
 
i was told that BRP is using a different type of antifreeze in their 4 wheelers for less heat. i wonder why they don't also do it to the bikes that have heat problems when they update the software

The stuff I put in claims that it reduces operating temperatures by as much as 50 degrees. Of course, what you get is different from engine to engine. The Spyder holds 8/10 of a gallon, so I had to buy two bottles at $20 a pop, so it definitely isn't cheap. If you're having heat problems, then it is an easy thing to try.
 
No my son had a college wrestling tournament on Saturday and I did not get home until late and then Sunday was reserved for the "Honey Do" List I am waiting on my CAT crossover pipe and my muffler as well as the Air intake vents from Viritka Trikes and will attack this thing in three days. I think I am going to get the Baja Ron sway bar and the Shocks as well and do it all at once. I wonder if Spyder Attitude makes each Y-pipe to order? Would have though i would have had that by now. Then once I am done with my goodies the trike goes to the dealer for all the device bulletin work and the Power Commander and Auto Tune and pipe wrap.

I sure am curious about the new flash Can Am is doing.

By the way we will be in your neck of the woods this summer my inlaws live in Syracuse and we are coming out for a visit.
 
With all of the modifications we make to our bikes to address needs and desires, they each become a bit unique.

This thread is an interesting one because the mods to address the heat combined with the fuel/ignition timing management (to account for air intake + exhaust) is going to produce a superior solution than the factory flash because the factory solution doesn't really change anything other than how the bike functions as controlled by the software. My guess is that they will run the engine with different A/F ratios to address the heat issue. If true, that is likely to mean a slight reduction in mpg.

So, in short, I think once this 2013 RT-S is as perfect as you can get it, the factory solutions will not work on this bike.

So what will this mean to the factory warranty? This is the key item stopping me (for the moment) from making some of the changes (anything that touches the electronic A/F or ignition management).

Thoughts?
Jerry
 
To be truthful the warranty is as good as the Dealer applying it. They present it in the proper context too BRP it should not be any issues.

frankly I am doing to the bike what should be done but the factory is hamstrung by stupid regulation and costs.

in the end you are correct I will have a superior performing unique bike that should give me many years of riding pleasure.
 
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