Making the 2013 Spyder RT-S "Perfect"

[stewartj239]

My wife and I have now owned our 2013 RT-S for about 6 months and we've put a total of 4500+ miles on it so far. During this time, I had left it stock in order to let it break in and to put on some miles in order to do a proper evaluation before shelling out money for improvements. Based on that, the following list outlines all of the changes I plan to make during the winter:

Akrapovic Exhaust - Based on my past 2-wheel experience, the OEM exhaust is typically overly restrictive and replacing it often allows the bike to run the way the factory wanted it to.

Cat Removal - Why the Spyder has this is beyond me. Knowing that it is also a big heat generator under the Tupperware, it's coming out.

PCV with AutoTune - To make sure I don't run too lean with the cat removal and Akrapovic, I'm adding the PCV - which I have past experience with. Also hearing that the rear cylinder can run leaner than the front, I'm adding the dual channel AutoTune so that each cylinder can be mapped independently.

ELKA 1+R Suspension - I'm adding these both front and rear. For touring, we want a nicer ride and I'm hoping that through turns, it makes the VSS less likely to kick in.

ISCI Front Brake - I don't understand why the Spyder did not come with one. I've ridden 2 wheels for the last 25 years and I always keep a finger on the front brake. The Spyder's rear brake by itself is lame and in my opinion, unsafe.

BRP Adjustable Wind Deflectors - The stock deflectors are in the closed position and they do not allow air to flow over the upper vents. I would think that by allowing air over those vents will help to pull hot air up and out of the Tupperware.

Ignition Wire Set & Plugs - I've seen that the OEM wires have caused people problems, so for the price, I'm replacing them.

Spyderpops Bump Skid - I like idea of the added protection that it offers and I also think it enhances the look of the Spyder.

BajaRon Sway Bar & Chromoly Heim Joints - I've actually already added the sway bar, then added the chromoly joints after the stock one snapped. This was definitely a nice enhancement and would recommend it.

I know I have a lot of updates that potentially address the heat related issues, but I want to be clear that I have not experienced or have had any heat related problems. However, I also want to be proactive, so if there is any way I can reduce heat or fend off potential problems, then I will.

Lastly, with the cat removal, Akrapovic and PCV / AutoTune additions, I hope to optimize the performance of this bike. From what I've read, an 8+ HP increase is possible.

I'll update this thread with my progress as it happens.

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Added 12/24/2013:

KewlMetal Air Filter Kit - I've started to tear into the Spyder to remove the header pipes and install BajaRon's plug / wire kit and was shocked to that there is no room in there to work. I came across the KewlMetal air filter kit which opens up all kinds of space under the hood and provides its own benefits as well.

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Added 12/30/2013:

Evap Canister Removal - One of the issues that I did have was the smell of gasoline in the garage after parking the Spyder. I came across a thread on this forum that identified the evap canister as the culprit and showed a very simple way for removing it altogether.

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Added 01/19/2014:

Ceramic Coating - The header pipes and cat bypass "Y" pipe are out to be ceramic coated. The shop told me that the ceramic coating will reduce the amount of emitted heat by 50%. My research on the topic supports that estimate.

Belt Tensioner - I do get belt vibration between 45-65 MPH, depending on the riding and throttle conditions. I ordered the Smooth Spyder tensioner as I have only heard positive things about it.

 

[Mooseman]

My wife and I have now owned our 2013 RT-S for about 6 months and we've put a total of 4500+ miles on it so far. During this time, I had left it stock in order to let it break in and to put on some miles in order to do a proper evaluation before shelling out money for improvements. Based on that, the following list outlines all of the changes I plan to make during the winter:

Akrapovic Exhaust - Based on my past 2-wheel experience, the OEM exhaust is typically overly restrictive and replacing it often allows the bike to run the way the factory wanted it to.

Cat Removal - Why the Spyder has this is beyond me. Knowing that it is also a big heat generator under the Tupperware, it's coming out.

PCV with AutoTune - To make sure I don't run too lean with the cat removal and Akrapovic, I'm adding the PCV - which I have past experience with. Also hearing that the rear cylinder can run leaner than the front, I'm adding the dual channel AutoTune so that each cylinder can be mapped independently.

ELKA 1+R Suspension - I'm adding these both front and rear. For touring, we want a nicer ride and I'm hoping that through turns, it makes the VSS less likely to kick in.

ISCI Front Brake - I don't understand why the Spyder did not come with one. I've ridden 2 wheels for the last 25 years and I always keep a finger on the front brake. The Spyder's rear brake by itself is lame and in my opinion, unsafe.

BRP Adjustable Wind Deflectors - The stock deflectors are in the closed position and they do not allow air to flow over the upper vents. I would think that by allowing air over those vents will help to pull hot air up and out of the Tupperware.

Ignition Wire Set & Plugs - I've seen that the OEM wires have caused people problems, so for the price, I'm replacing them.

Spyderpops Bump Skid - I like idea of the added protection that it offers and I also think it enhances the look of the Spyder.

BajaRon Sway Bar & Chromoly Heim Joints - I've actually already added the sway bar, then added the chromoly joints after the stock one snapped. This was definitely a nice enhancement and would recommend it.

I know I have a lot of updates that potentially address the heat related issues, but I want to be clear that I have not experienced or have had any heat related problems. However, I also want to be proactive, so if there is any way I can reduce heat or fend off potential problems, then I will.

Lastly, with the cat removal, Akrapovic and PCV / AutoTune additions, I hope to optimize the performance of this bike. From what I've read, an 8+ HP increase is possible.

I'll update this thread with my progress as it happens.

You might look at the CanAm Cannon in my thread for"New exhaust for the 2010-2013 RT. I have a you tube linked to it also. The Sound is a deeper bass than the Akropovic and the looks are a lot nicer imho. I like Chrome I guess. Look for the thread started by Mooseman.

 

[Bob Denman]

Stewart,
You've taken a very wise route to the formation of this great list; you gave yourself the benefit of TIME, in order to get it right! :clap::2thumbs:
It sounds as if your better half won't be seeing much of you this Winter. Keep the garage warm enough, and send out for pizza! :thumbup:
(And don't forget to take lots of pictures!)

 

[Chupaca]

Well done..!!

now that the planning and testing is done you are going to be a busy guy...good luck on all these mods...:2thumbs:

 

[Dan McNally]

I'm originally from Syracuse and have a daughter and three grandkids who live there . . . I plan on riding up next summer . . . maybe we can get together and I can see how all those mods look!

 

[spacetiger]

I think the only three suggestions I would make would be:

1. Wrap the exhaust pipes from the head back to the exhaust. It will help you in 3 ways; keeps exhaust gas velocity up (by keeping heat in), reduces the noise (so you can enjoy the new muffler), and reduce the heat problems the 2013 models seem to have. Search the site, others have done this and posted their results. I plan on doing this for my 2012 RT-S.

2. Put a drive belt tensioner on. I have done this and you will be very pleased how smoother the bike feels.

3. Swap out your front/rear brake pads to EBC V pads. The brake feel is much better.

I will be waiting to see what results you achieve with the PCV. I plan on doing the same but also considering adding the switch to allow dual maps to be used. It doesn't add much cost given the investment in the other electronic components and thought having MAP for best MPG while highway cruising would be useful.

1 question: I noticed many farkles like different seat, floorboards or 12v accessory outlets for cold weather riding gear... Do you have any plans in this direction?

Jerry

 

[flaggerphil]

While I agree that the Spyder should have come with a hand brake, I don't agree that the foot brake is dangerous.

But that's me.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

While I agree that the Spyder should have come with a hand brake, I don't agree that the foot brake is dangerous.

But that's me.

I agree and from what I understand the ISCI hand brake is merely a way to engage the same brakes that are already activated by the foot brake. You don't get any additional braking power just a different means to engage them. Now that said if I were to buy a hand brake the ISCI hand brake is the only one I would consider. They make quality stuff!

 

[rogerb]

I can sympathise with you on the hand brake. Had it on my 2010 . My reason for putting it on at the time was I had a broken right ankle. Like you I rode two-wheelers for many years using the front brake. Habits are hard to break. The system does not change the Spyder braking system in any way. It merely pushes on foot brake lever. You will see the foot lever go down as you pull in the lever. Over time you will notice yourself using it less and less. I do not regret putting it on. looking to buy another machine before spring. Mine was totalled last August. Many controversies with 2013 & 2014's. I'm gonna wait it out. Hope they get it right before Spyderfest 2014.:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: Still looking at used machines. Might be only way out.

 

[Bob Denman]

I agree and from what I understand the ISCI hand brake is merely a way to engage the same brakes that are already activated by the foot brake. You don't get any additional braking power just a different means to engage them. Now that said if I were to buy a hand brake the ISCI hand brake is the only one I would consider. They make quality stuff!

:agree: Great folks, with even BETTER products! :2thumbs:

 

[stewartj239]

I'm originally from Syracuse and have a daughter and three grandkids who live there . . . I plan on riding up next summer . . . maybe we can get together and I can see how all those mods look!

Definitely!

 

[stewartj239]

1. Wrap the exhaust pipes from the head back to the exhaust. It will help you in 3 ways; keeps exhaust gas velocity up (by keeping heat in), reduces the noise (so you can enjoy the new muffler), and reduce the heat problems the 2013 models seem to have. Search the site, others have done this and posted their results. I plan on doing this for my 2012 RT-S.

I am going to look into ceramic coating for the header pipes. If that is not the way to go, then I will definitely wrap them while they're off to have the AutoTune O2 sensor bungs welded in.

1 question: I noticed many farkles like different seat, floorboards or 12v accessory outlets for cold weather riding gear... Do you have any plans in this direction?

No plans. I have an SM5, so I think the floorboards are out, comfort is great for me and no complaints from my wife. For cold weather riding, this fall, I was out in 25 degree weather and was fine as I dress appropriately. Also, the heated hand grips are a life-saver.

 

[Bob Denman]

Once in a while, I've got to head up to Syracuse for continuing education courses... If I'm coming your way; I'll send up a flare! :thumbup:
WylieC and I had a chance to meet up in your neck of the woods a while back... hyea::yes:

 

[stewartj239]

While I agree that the Spyder should have come with a hand brake, I don't agree that the foot brake is dangerous.

But that's me.

I agree and from what I understand the ISCI hand brake is merely a way to engage the same brakes that are already activated by the foot brake. You don't get any additional braking power just a different means to engage them. Now that said if I were to buy a hand brake the ISCI hand brake is the only one I would consider. They make quality stuff!

You've got to look at the context of how I said what I did. I am not saying there is a design flaw by only having a rear brake. I'm saying that I ALWAYS ride a motorcycle with a finger on the front brake lever so I can react immediately if necessary. You cannot do that with the Spyder's rear brake pedal, so your reaction time for getting on the brakes is far worse than having a front brake setup. So for my personal riding style, it is a safety issue.

 

[stewartj239]

Once in a while, I've got to head up to Syracuse for continuing education courses... If I'm coming your way; I'll send up a flare! :thumbup:
WylieC and I had a chance to meet up in your neck of the woods a while back... hyea::yes:

Yes, please do. There are lots of great places to ride. Just southwest of here are the Finger Lakes and north of here are the Adirondack Mountains.

 

[Bob Denman]

We've got some decent riding down here as well...
To get to us:
81 South, to 17 East...
exit 100: Liberty
Rte 55 East for about 13 miles or so
:thumbup:

 

[Bob Denman]

No; it isn't...
But there's a "sequel"...

Do you remember the old Sullivan's Department Store? It's right across the road from that site; next ot the Pizza Hut.

 

[stewartj239]

Ceramic Coating

I just spoke with a local shop that does ceramic coating. I'm going to have them do that for the header pipes and in addition, they will weld on the O2 sensor bungs for the AutoTune as well. That makes it easy for me. What I learned is that not only does the ceramic coating reduce heat, but it also adds HP. Probably not much, but it sure does sound good

 

[Bob Denman]

:thumbup: Let us know how this all comes together! :2thumbs:

 

[jerpinoy]

Getting used to of having no hand brake. I don't miss it any more.