• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Maintenance Schedule

And IMHO be careful with those "recommended" service intervals. The 9k is reading to be sketchier and sketchier. Also, while there is no valve adjustment on the 1330 like the 998 (even though most are skipping it because history seems to show its not actually needed) there is a pricey 28k 1330 transmission filter change that's not on the 998. Anybody get a hard cost on what that's running?

Real world we're seeing very similar service intervals and costs.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I did mine and it was $105.00 for the filter.
 
Oil change interval question

I most likely will not put the 9000 miles on for the second oil change within the year. So my question is would I be better off changing the oil prior to the start of the season or at the end? I'm leaning towards the end of season before I put machine into storage so that it isn't sitting with dirty oil all winter, but thought I'd get some opinions from the group.
 
At the end of the season before you put the machine away is going to be best.
Used oil can become acidic as it sits over the winter. Better to have fresh in there for storage.

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Was that just for the filter, or including labor? About how long did it take?

That is just for the filter. I did not time it, but would guess it added 20 min to my oil change as I removed the right side bottom pan and the side bracket to have free access to the filter and unobstructed drainage for the oil.
You can see this cover/ filter when you remove the lower right side cover. It will be to the lower right front of the motor.
Make sure you have all the oil drained before removing that cover/filter and a pan under it for the oil that will drain out. I saved old flat baking pans (cookie sheets with sides and pie pans) that work great for this
Then all you have to do is unbolt the old cover/filter and bolt on the new - very easy . No Bud hookup is needed, but I think the dealer does that to have it in the system that it was done.
 
At the end of the season before you put the machine away is going to be best.
Used oil can become acidic as it sits over the winter. Better to have fresh in there for storage.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

:agree:, Strongly! And if you drain it hot, as the manual says, refill and just run it long enough to verify oil pressure is up and circulating all will be well. Shut it off and connect the battery tender for the winter.
 
At the end of the season before you put the machine away is going to be best.
Used oil can become acidic as it sits over the winter. Better to have fresh in there for storage.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Me I always like to change it at the end of the season for the same reason as you listed, but I will confess that if the current oil has less then 1000 miles on it I run it the next year.
 
First Maintenance Schedule

My Spyder RTL2014 just celebrated it's 1st year last August 8 with 799 miles. Do I follow the BRP scheduled maintenance of (3000m) or have the first oil change, because it's a year old? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
kumortl14
 
My Spyder RTL2014 just celebrated it's 1st year last August 8 with 799 miles. Do I follow the BRP scheduled maintenance of (3000m) or have the first oil change, because it's a year old? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
kumortl14

One year regardless of the mileage.
 
My Spyder RTL2014 just celebrated it's 1st year last August 8 with 799 miles. Do I follow the BRP scheduled maintenance of (3000m) or have the first oil change, because it's a year old? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
kumortl14
Normally I'd say 1000 miles and your still fine and leave it be.
However, since it has never been done I'd go ahead and change it if it were mine. There is more assembly debris and junk in a new motor/trans than you ever want to believe.

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Good point also. I figured I would give it a try since I have a full warranty, and also believe BRP would not suggest intervals that are detrimental to the :spyder2:. I was/am also a pioneer on the no valve check until 50K on 998 with my 2011--:yikes: I was a good spyderman though in previous models and had em checked at 14K and 28K on two others. :roflblack::roflblack:
I have gone through 3 9300 miles oil changes so far after the 3000 mile break in (approaching 4th one) without any problems whatsoever. I am very comfortable with the interval.
 
I most likely will not put the 9000 miles on for the second oil change within the year. So my question is would I be better off changing the oil prior to the start of the season or at the end? I'm leaning towards the end of season before I put machine into storage so that it isn't sitting with dirty oil all winter, but thought I'd get some opinions from the group.

Am guessing that most will suggest change out at season end. That way she sits with new oil and you are ready to hit the pavement when the new season begins.

Mine needs a change in 800 miles (were I to run out the 9300). Its going in this week or the next. That will be my final oil change this season and I should be good to go when next season starts up.
 
Maintenance

What is the maintenance schedule for the 2015 RT? I can't find it online anywhere. My dealer mentioned something about a 600 mile checkup.

Thanks!

3000 miles (or one year, whichever comes first... not in owners manual). I had only 1300 miles on my 2014 RTL at one year, so I called BRP for clarification. I was told that I had to do the 9000 mile/one year service to maintain my warranty. Checked two nearby dealers for price quotes and had it done for $274. When I hit 3000 miles, most likely before warranty expires, I'll do the 3000 mile service.
 
My dilemma will be the 9300 mile servicings...

Bought mine in Feb....sitting at 9600 miles right now.....have a 3500 mile trip planned to the north east at the end of the month. Dealer said I could let it go past the 9300 miles no problem, all would still be right n the world.....

I decided to take it in early instead, next Friday, and get the 9300 mile service, oil is dark. Now and 10,000+ miles just seems too far for an engine running around 4000 rpm on the highway.....I think opting on the side of caution is always best anyway....

Next year I have a 12,000 mile month+ long trip planned, gonna have to plan a stop for maintainence somewhere, that should be Interesting.... :-)
 
DC1;1032055.....I think opting on the side of caution is always best anyway.... [/QUOTE said:
:agree: The advantage of the 9,300 mile interval, is that it gives 1330 owners the luxury of some latitude in choosing when to get the servicing done.
In my case; it's now an annual event. :thumbup:
 
Read the book!

What is the maintenance schedule for the 2015 RT? I can't find it online anywhere. My dealer mentioned something about a 600 mile checkup.

Thanks!

You paid alot for the RT. Some day you will want your value back. Having verified records of having of all required maint. items will help you get back the maximum amount back when you go to sell!

Get the book and read it!

Carl
 
Question answered?

:cheers:bobgeorge, did all the above responses answer your question adequately?:roflblack::roflblack: :roflblack:
 
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