Lubing the A Arm Bushings

[SpyRyd]

The grease gun head should fit snugly to the male fitting. If grease come out off the fitting, means improper fit. Old grease should come out and wait until the new start coming out. This will indicate you did a good job.:yes: If the grease will not come out, one possible cause is dried grease.:banghead:

My Lincoln grease gun head snaps on the male fitting and I keep hand pressure on the head while squeezing the pistol grip and I get gobs of grease on the fitting. Also I have to loosen (unscrew) the head a few turns to get it off the male fitting. I agree with you that this shouldn't happen with a proper fit but I don't know what more to do to achieve it. Any suggestions? Thanks...

 

[ulflyer]

Its simply a royal bitch lubing these things. I've never cussed so much as I do when doing a lube job. I changed out the zerks long ago to for 90 deg types (or somesuch) but theres a couple that never seem to take grease, or not much. I use a flex hose with an 8" metal hose on the end that has the head on it. On the top left one I've busted my hands several times trying to get the grease gun head off. Have learned to clamp a small lok-tite pliers on the metal arm to get better leverage.

Haven't used it yet, but bought another gun with the arm pump instead of the hand grip type. Maybe I can force more grease into the diff fitting. Figure I'll need a helper to pump while I hold it on the zerk.

 

[NancysToy]

The design of the bushing doesn't allow a path for the grease, so unless it is dismantled and modified, it will never get much better. There is really no good answer but periodic replacement of the bushings unless BRP comes up with a better arrangement. I have even tried an impact greaser for the balky ones, with no success.

 

[Spyderjockey]

Its simply a royal bitch lubing these things. I've never cussed so much as I do when doing a lube job. I changed out the zerks long ago to for 90 deg types (or somesuch) but theres a couple that never seem to take grease, or not much. I use a flex hose with an 8" metal hose on the end that has the head on it. On the top left one I've busted my hands several times trying to get the grease gun head off. Have learned to clamp a small lok-tite pliers on the metal arm to get better leverage.

Haven't used it yet, but bought another gun with the arm pump instead of the hand grip type. Maybe I can force more grease into the diff fitting. Figure I'll need a helper to pump while I hold it on the zerk.

:agree: I've changed my zerk fittings also with 90s and it helped some just to be able to get the grease gun on the zerk, but still it gets more grease around the outside of the fitting than inside where it's needed. I even extended the hose of the gun by putting another length of hose on it and that gives me more room to work the grease gun, but the other problem I have found is that you can't see if there is any grease coming out of the bushing ends. I just wonder if mechanics at dealerships have the same problem but just let it go whether they are properly greased or not. :banghead: I even have asked a mechanic if they have a special grease gun for lubing these bushings and if they have problems getting the grease in. The mechanic just said they have no special gun and they don't have any problem greasing the bushings....but I wonder if they are just going through the motion with no real success of getting the bushing greased.:dontknow:

 

[SpyRyd]

The design of the bushing doesn't allow a path for the grease, so unless it is dismantled and modified, it will never get much better. There is really no good answer but periodic replacement of the bushings unless BRP comes up with a better arrangement. I have even tried an impact greaser for the balky ones, with no success.

Thanks Scotty. I feel better now...maybe I'm not "grease gun stupid" after all. Guess I'll not worry about this anymore since I can't do anything about it.

 

[SpyRyd]

:agree: I've changed my zerk fittings also with 90s and it helped some just to be able to get the grease gun on the zerk, but still it gets more grease around the outside of the fitting than inside where it's needed. I even extended the hose of the gun by putting another length of hose on it and that gives me more room to work the grease gun, but the other problem I have found is that you can't see if there is any grease coming out of the bushing ends. I just wonder if mechanics at dealerships have the same problem but just let it go whether they are properly greased or not. :banghead: I even have asked a mechanic if they have a special grease gun for lubing these bushings and if they have problems getting the grease in. The mechanic just said they have no special gun and they don't have any problem greasing the bushings....but I wonder if they are just going through the motion with no real success of getting the bushing greased.:dontknow:

Seems to me your dealer techs are human and if all of us (also humans) are having little to no success getting these bushings to accept grease then I suspect they may not even be going through the motions. I'm gonna ask my dealer about this the next time I visit. Think I'll also ask the Pitbull crew about this during my appointment while at Spyderfest.

 

[JJW SpyderRider]

Seems to me your dealer techs are human and if all of us (also humans) are having little to no success getting these bushings to accept grease then I suspect they may not even be going through the motions. I'm gonna ask my dealer about this the next time I visit. Think I'll also ask the Pitbull crew about this during my appointment while at Spyderfest.

I have seen the line item "Grease front suspension" on my bill from the dealer. The zerks had not been touched and were still covered with road grim. I guess it is too much trouble for them so like you said they don't go through the motions.

I use a level type grease gun with two long flex hoses with both straight end and 90 degree end. I add grease until the grease comes out around the bushing. It's a big mess to clean up but this is the best chance at getting grease where it needs to be.

 

[BajaRon]

I too am concerned that the A-Arm bushings are not taking grease like they should and secondly, that the grease is not dispersing to 100% of the friction area when they do take grease.

Here is what I did and I think it's working very well.

I purchased some full synthetic grease from Amsoil. This grease is thinner than most wheel bearing, joint greases. This is because a true full synthetic grease does not thin out with heat. Mineral based greases have to start out thick to maintain a sufficient viscosity at operating temperature because they do thin out significantly. Since synthetic grease is not greatly affected by temperature it can be much thinner at room temperature. (It doesn't thicken up in cold temperatures either).

The theory is that this thinner grease flows into stubborn zerks and tight spaces much better than thicker grease. Not to mention that a synthetic grease will give better lubrication and protection to moving parts than mineral based greases.

Like I said, it seems to be working for me.

 

[SpyRyd]

I too am concerned that the A-Arm bushings are not taking grease like they should and secondly, that the grease is not dispersing to 100% of the friction area when they do take grease.

Here is what I did and I think it's working very well.

I purchased some full synthetic grease from Amsoil. This grease is thinner than most wheel bearing, joint greases. This is because a true full synthetic grease does not thin out with heat. Mineral based greases have to start out thick to maintain a sufficient viscosity at operating temperature because they do thin out significantly. Since synthetic grease is not greatly affected by temperature it can be much thinner at room temperature. (It doesn't thicken up in cold temperatures either).

The theory is that this thinner grease flows into stubborn zerks and tight spaces much better than thicker grease. Not to mention that a synthetic grease will give better lubrication and protection to moving parts than mineral based greases.

Like I said, it seems to be working for me.

Thanks Ron. I'm using the BRP XPS synthetic grease, Part No. 293550010 (it is tan in color) and it is a thin grease as well. What type of grease gun do you use? Anything else you do or use to successfully get grease past the zerk fittings?

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks Ron. I'm using the BRP XPS synthetic grease, Part No. 293550010 (it is tan in color) and it is a thin grease as well. What type of grease gun do you use? Anything else you do or use to successfully get grease past the zerk fittings?

I use a standard small cartridge gun. Nothing special. Easier to get into tight places. And I have the flat tip adapter which really helps to get into tight places.

 

[SpyRyd]

I use a standard small cartridge gun. Nothing special. Easier to get into tight places. And I have the flat tip adapter which really helps to get into tight places.

Thanks again Ron. The Lincoln pistol grip grease gun I use looks like the one pictured. I don't use an adapter since the 45 degree fittings on my 2012 RT makes connecting the "standard" head fairly easy. I'm thinking about trying the hard pipe vs. the flexible hose on the gun so perhaps to be able to put more pressure on the head to zerk connection. Thinking doing this will help get more grease into the bushing and less of a glob on the zerk fitting. Anyway, I'm gonna keep trying to get these bushings properly lubed.

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks again Ron. The Lincoln pistol grip grease gun I use looks like the one pictured. I don't use an adapter since the 45 degree fittings on my 2012 RT makes connecting the "standard" head fairly easy. I'm thinking about trying the hard pipe vs. the flexible hose on the gun so perhaps to be able to put more pressure on the head to zerk connection. Thinking doing this will help get more grease into the bushing and less of a glob on the zerk fitting. Anyway, I'm gonna keep trying to get these bushings properly lubed.

If you can get a good approach to the zirk the steel tube may make it easier. I opted for the adapted end instead of changing out the zirks. Whatever gets the bushing lubed.

 

[Rando]

Question. On the RT equipped with the SpyderPops bumpskid, can you still get to the zirks or does the skid need to be removed?

 

[SpyRyd]

Question. On the RT equipped with the SpyderPops bumpskid, can you still get to the zirks or does the skid need to be removed?

The zirk fittings are on the top of both the upper and lower A arms back where the arm is attached to the frame. I have Pop's Bumpskid installed and there is no need to remove it to grease the A arm bushings.

 

[2 Cruysyn]

For those of you who have changed the grease fittings I assume the Zerks are metric like everything else on the Spyder but what size are they? 5mm, 6mm,...?

Thanks Ron for the photo of the right angle grease coupler. Don't think you can get to the upper rear Zerks, on an RT at least, coming straight on (thanks BRP). I'll know for sure in a couple days since that's all I need to do in preparation for the fest.

 

[NancysToy]

For those of you who have changed the grease fittings I assume the Zerks are metric like everything else on the Spyder but what size are they? 5mm, 6mm,...?

Thanks Ron for the photo of the right angle grease coupler. Don't think you can get to the upper rear Zerks, on an RT at least, coming straight on (thanks BRP). I'll know for sure in a couple days since that's all I need to do in preparation for the fest.

They are 6 mm, but be aware that unless you have the appropriate shim washers, the 45's may not line up pointing where they are accessible. Unlike the more tapered threads on the SAE version, they can't just be snugged down until they head where you want...they pretty much need to be bottomed out to prevent leaks.

 

[SPYD1]

Well I just got in from taking the trunk off to assure my best success was put forth to assure the fittings took grease and I will tell you:

1.) it is not difficult to remove the trunk on a RS
2.) replacing the zerk fittings and getting them to line up is aweful. I ended up putting the stock ones back on.
3.) I greased them with the trunk off and it was easy and I had grease oozing out at the ends. This took 5 minutes.
4.) the clean up took 45 minutes. I don't know how you would do this very well with the trunk on.
5.) I reassembled the bike.

This was the first time I have removed the trunk but next time I think I could do it in off and on in one hour. I will do the greasing this way from now on to assure it is serviced properly.

Now doing a RT...don't know. With the miles I put on and living in Michigan this will be an annual task and I will be prepared next time and more comfortable with this job.

 

[StanProff]

Thanks Scotty. I feel better now...maybe I'm not "grease gun stupid" after all. Guess I'll not worry about this anymore since I can't do anything about it.

I'm feeling better already about myself. I haven't tried to grease them yet but when I do I'll know it is not just me having trouble :2thumbs:
I think I'll warm them up with my little heat gun (slightly) and maybe that will let the grease flow better or at least let the old grease come out easier.

 

[gypsy_100]

They are 6 mm, but be aware that unless you have the appropriate shim washers, the 45's may not line up pointing where they are accessible. Unlike the more tapered threads on the SAE version, they can't just be snugged down until they head where you want...they pretty much need to be bottomed out to prevent leaks.

Fortunately the fittings I bought are not all threaded precisely with the same orientation. I bought about 20 45's. I just kept trying different ones until I found one that threaded in really tight and pointed generally in the right direction. Repeated that for each bushing. So now I can get to each fitting much easier. But I still have one location that just won't take the grease -- it comes out everywhere but thru the bushing. I've tried loaded and unloaded and it makes no difference. Next time I feel masochistic, I'll try again.

 

[Netminder]

Seems to me your dealer techs are human and if all of us (also humans) are having little to no success getting these bushings to accept grease then I suspect they may not even be going through the motions. I'm gonna ask my dealer about this the next time I visit. Think I'll also ask the Pitbull crew about this during my appointment while at Spyderfest.

Please post back what you discover from Len and his crew.:thumbup: I to would like to grease the arms as part of my maintenance schedule and hope, someone has a solution! Thanks!