gnirtsnod
New member
After about four hours, it is easy! Anyone who has ever removed the lower side panels (gray castings) for powder coating or plating knows that removing them is an easy, methodical process until you get to the right side where the brake pedal is located, then things get sticky - at least on the 2012 RT-S. I'm hoping that by sharing a couple of tips, other riders doing the same task will save a lot of time and frustration. First, I have to thank Doc Riverside and SpydermanCT for leading me to a simple solution. SpydermanCT, you're right - five minutes was all it took once prepped. So here goes, focusing on the right side casting only.
First, the obvious - remove all of the bolts and machine screws connecting the casting to the frame components, including the two holding the master cylinder in place. Then disconnect the brake linkage at the brake pedal, and below at the rod going into the back of the master cylinder.
Tip #1 - Leave the footpeg, floorboard, and brake linkage mechanism (located on the backside of the casting), and muffler intact. You will hurt yourself trying to remove all of this while on the Spyder. Anyone who has tried knows exactly what I mean. The rider peg is actually a handy holding point while removing the casting and the extraneous stuff does not get in the way of removal.
The back of the master cylinder protrudes through the casting and is covered with a rubber boot. The problem lies in sliding the casting to the rear, toward the side bag, to clear the rear of the master cylinder and remove the casting. However, there is a tab on the casting that fits nicely between the frame components which will only allow movement perpendicular to the centerline of the Spyder. Perpendicular movement is allowed and lateral movement is needed! So here's what's needed without resorting to removing the master cylinder.
Tip #2 - There are two lines that run between the brake reservoir (under the seat) and the master cylinder. These lines are held to the frame by a clip. These lines need to be pushed clear of the clip (use your fingers) to allow some slack in the line. Then use a flat screwdriver to gently pry between the master cylinder and the casting to start the master cylinder moving slightly toward the front end, separating the cylinder from the casting (the rubber boot sticks and this prying will break it loose). If doing this alone, tie off the master cylinder with wire ties, gently putting pressure on forward movement without compromising the hard lines coming out of the master cylinder. Try to have someone with you. The extra set of hands are pretty convenient to have around. You should now be able to wrestle the casting free.
Now the peg, floorboard, brake linkage and brake pedal can be removed from the casting while on the bench. Good luck.
First, the obvious - remove all of the bolts and machine screws connecting the casting to the frame components, including the two holding the master cylinder in place. Then disconnect the brake linkage at the brake pedal, and below at the rod going into the back of the master cylinder.
Tip #1 - Leave the footpeg, floorboard, and brake linkage mechanism (located on the backside of the casting), and muffler intact. You will hurt yourself trying to remove all of this while on the Spyder. Anyone who has tried knows exactly what I mean. The rider peg is actually a handy holding point while removing the casting and the extraneous stuff does not get in the way of removal.
The back of the master cylinder protrudes through the casting and is covered with a rubber boot. The problem lies in sliding the casting to the rear, toward the side bag, to clear the rear of the master cylinder and remove the casting. However, there is a tab on the casting that fits nicely between the frame components which will only allow movement perpendicular to the centerline of the Spyder. Perpendicular movement is allowed and lateral movement is needed! So here's what's needed without resorting to removing the master cylinder.
Tip #2 - There are two lines that run between the brake reservoir (under the seat) and the master cylinder. These lines are held to the frame by a clip. These lines need to be pushed clear of the clip (use your fingers) to allow some slack in the line. Then use a flat screwdriver to gently pry between the master cylinder and the casting to start the master cylinder moving slightly toward the front end, separating the cylinder from the casting (the rubber boot sticks and this prying will break it loose). If doing this alone, tie off the master cylinder with wire ties, gently putting pressure on forward movement without compromising the hard lines coming out of the master cylinder. Try to have someone with you. The extra set of hands are pretty convenient to have around. You should now be able to wrestle the casting free.
Now the peg, floorboard, brake linkage and brake pedal can be removed from the casting while on the bench. Good luck.
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