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Looking for Laser Alignment near San Antonio Texas
- Thread starter Spydered
- Start date
Check this list "click: http://www.spydercomfort.com/dealerstx.htm
I had a 2018 RTL and felt uncomfortable going over 65 MPH on it. and a fellow rider suggested that I needed to travel 100+ miles to get a laser alignment. I never did it, but traded my 2018 in on a used 2020 RTL after riding one last Spring. I now feel comfortable cruising at 75-80 MPH on the 2020. When I was setting up a 3K service at a Platinum rated service department the other day, I asked the manager about a laser alignment. He said that the 2020 and up RTLs don't need the alignment and added that even if I had done the alignment on my 2018, it might still have been "darty". Just the nature of the beast, I guess. Changing the frame, height, etc., really has made a significant improvement.
mecsw500
Member
If the rear wheel is aligned "reasonably" straight and "centered" and the front wheels have "a little and equal" toe in and the bars are "centered" I think it should be OK. For instance, castor angle and camber changes are much more noticeable than small variations in front and rear toe on cars, in my experience. But of course only front toe and rear wheel centering and alignment can be readily adjusted on the Spyder.
I think incorrect toe on a car generally results in odd tire wear which amplifies the effects in stability over time. I've often changed tires on a car and think how nice it is afterwards, then gone for an alignment and realized why the old ones didn't last as long as I had hoped. I suspect Spyders are a little more sensitive though with the rear wheel on the crown of the lane.
I checked my Spyder's alignment with a simple method I made up using my rifle bore sight lasers, some copper tube and the garage wall. I also double checked it with the string method. I crudely checked the rear wheel alignment with some 3/4 square tube and some woodworking clamps in the same way you check motorcycle wheel alignment.
Both methods showed I had less than 2 degrees of toe in as far as I could measure and the rear wheel was reasonably straight and centered. In reality it probably showed I had some toe in, instead of toe out at least. I suspect, if you are reasonably careful with the string method you could get an accurate enough setup. I think perhaps rear wheel centering and alignment might be more noticeable than correct toe as that is hard to get right when adjusting belt centering at the same time.
I've seen pictures of 2000 era formula cars being setup for toe with "string", admittedly with a nicely made jig, a set of "setup" wheels, the car leveled on jacks, and someone with years of experience doing it.
Ural and other motorcycle and sidecar combinations are often setup with square metal tube and tape measures for sidecar toe in. Ural even makes a kit for theirs, a similar principle to the string method. Lasers don't seem to be required to get an accurate setup it seems and I suspect such outfits are far more sensitive to toe setup than the Spyder.
Your mileage may vary of course.
I think incorrect toe on a car generally results in odd tire wear which amplifies the effects in stability over time. I've often changed tires on a car and think how nice it is afterwards, then gone for an alignment and realized why the old ones didn't last as long as I had hoped. I suspect Spyders are a little more sensitive though with the rear wheel on the crown of the lane.
I checked my Spyder's alignment with a simple method I made up using my rifle bore sight lasers, some copper tube and the garage wall. I also double checked it with the string method. I crudely checked the rear wheel alignment with some 3/4 square tube and some woodworking clamps in the same way you check motorcycle wheel alignment.
Both methods showed I had less than 2 degrees of toe in as far as I could measure and the rear wheel was reasonably straight and centered. In reality it probably showed I had some toe in, instead of toe out at least. I suspect, if you are reasonably careful with the string method you could get an accurate enough setup. I think perhaps rear wheel centering and alignment might be more noticeable than correct toe as that is hard to get right when adjusting belt centering at the same time.
I've seen pictures of 2000 era formula cars being setup for toe with "string", admittedly with a nicely made jig, a set of "setup" wheels, the car leveled on jacks, and someone with years of experience doing it.
Ural and other motorcycle and sidecar combinations are often setup with square metal tube and tape measures for sidecar toe in. Ural even makes a kit for theirs, a similar principle to the string method. Lasers don't seem to be required to get an accurate setup it seems and I suspect such outfits are far more sensitive to toe setup than the Spyder.
Your mileage may vary of course.
Pooch
Member
Talk to Rocky at Coyote in Boerne. He is the Spyder guru there and very personable.
I have yet to feel the need of a laser alignment or a different sway bar on my new 2021 RTL that I bought there.
Only problem I have experienced with handling was too much air in the front tires. Knocked it down to 18 cold from the operator-manual-suggested 20. Handles straight and true now.
Then come on up to Kerrville and ride the Hill Country with me! :2thumbs:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I'm guessing the reason you don't need one is because they don't have the equipment or know-how to do it. You never need any service work the dealer can't provide! I don't know if I would go back to them. :dontknow:
jcthorne
Well-known member
Your dealer service department was making excuses for tools and training they do not have. NONE of the Spyders are properly aligned on the assembly line. NONE. A scant few manage to accidentally get it right but its very few. Out of hundreds I have done, have had 3 that were correct from the factory.
Your new bike needs a proper laser alignment. If your dealer does not have the tools and training to do the job, suggest taking the bike to a shop that does.
Just as an aside, for those not yet aware - that Platinum rating thing is based upon how many Can-am 'units' a Dealer sells in a given year, and NOT upon any level of service or training they/their techs might have achieved! :lecturef_smilie:
So the Platinum rating doesn't necessarily mean they know squat about aligning your Spyder/Ryker properly, just that they know how to sell stuff/get the punters to buy things from them!
And sadly, that in turn doesn't necessarily mean they know too much about the products they're moving, or how to assemble them/set them up properly either! :banghead:
FrogmanDave
Active member
This thread https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?64968-Platinum-or-Gold-Dealers would tend to disagree with you Peter. Specifically Post #2 & #9.
Well Frogman, I reckon someone involved in the discussion in that thread might juuust be stretching the truth a little, or possibly they're just passing on the 'corporate story' as instructed or as they've been told it!
Read the rest of the posts in that thread & make up your own mind about how much 'customer satisfaction' or 'dealer's customer service' or 'Technician training & performance' standards are involved in the award of that status. :banghead:
Certainly here in Oz & particularly here in South Oz (and I suspect the same still applies in your part of the world too...) the award of platinum dealer status is NOT necessarily a recommendation for great or even for good customer service (in South Oz, it's apparently the exact opposite! :shocked: ) nor is it recognition of a competent service department &/or trained & competent techs - but with a few notable exceptions, it does very closely appear to match those dealers' sales performance! :bdh:
Just sayin' :thumbup:
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