Looking for info/advice from those who have RT Replacement Shocks...

[JCWeatherman]

I am looking for some help and advice from my fellow RT owners who have replaced their original shocks with aftermarket shocks.

Note: I have Baja Ron links and sway bar on my '22 RTL.

So, before I drop a couple of thousand hard-earned dollars on suspension, here is what I would like to know:

1) If you have replaced your shocks, did you replace just the rear, just the fronts, or all three?
2) Did you replace the original shocks with Elka, M2, or some other brand?
3) On a scale of 0 - 5, with 0 being "I don't see any difference" and 5 being "My Spyder rides like the chariot of the gods," how much change do you notice in cornering, riding twisties, and stopping?

 

[Vinkon]

I just read that M2 is shutting down business this month.

 

[BamaJohn]

I am looking for some help and advice from my fellow RT owners who have replaced their original shocks with aftermarket shocks.

Note: I have Baja Ron links and sway bar on my '22 RTL.

So, before I drop a couple of thousand hard-earned dollars on suspension, here is what I would like to know:

1) If you have replaced your shocks, did you replace just the rear, just the fronts, or all three?
2) Did you replace the original shocks with Elka, M2, or some other brand?
3) On a scale of 0 - 5, with 0 being "I don't see any difference" and 5 being "My Spyder rides like the chariot of the gods," how much change do you notice in cornering, riding twisties, and stopping?

My trike: 2020 Spyder RT base
Miles at change: 24,650 miles
New front shocks only: Elka Stage 2, dialed in at Lamonster's prior to shipping for my weight & other supplied info

The BajaRon Ultra anti-sway bar was a great starting point to improve the suspension, but the Spyder still sagged, rolled, and wallowed more than I wanted, and ground clearance was below 4" with original front shocks. After a lot of searching, head-scratching, and waffling, I bought the Elka Stage 2 and installed them on my Spyder.

1. Ground clearance improved, and I no longer bottomed out in familiar places;
2. The Spyder is more planted on the road, with less lean, and less nose-dive under braking.


I'm very happy with the results and wish I'd done it sooner, so I'll give it a 4.5 (with cost being considered).

You asked about the twisties: In the twisties of the Appalachians, in April, a fella riding a BMW GS in our group of 5 said to me "I don't see how you're keeping up with us on that thing". I can't keep up with some of my friends who ride very well, but most are amazed at the Spyder's ability, and the high torque 1330 engine is fun with the RPM's up.

 

[Peter Aawen]

..... <snip>

1. Ground clearance improved, and I no longer bottomed out in familiar places;
2. The Spyder is more planted on the road, with less lean, and less nose-dive under braking.
3. Given that the rear shock is an airbag, I did not replace it.

I'm very happy with the results and wish I'd done it sooner, so I'll give it a 4.5 (with cost being considered).

You asked about the twisties: In the twisties of the Appalachians, in April, a fella riding a BMW GS in our group of 5 said to me "I don't see how you're keeping up with us on that thing". I can't keep up with some of my friends who ride very well, but most are amazed at the Spyder's ability, and the high torque 1330 engine is fun with the RPM's up.

Just a note about your point #3 Bamajohn - your rear shock is NOT actually an airbag; nor is it even an 'air-assisted shock' or a shock & coil with any air involvement at all!! nojoke - It's a 'normal motorbike shock & coil spring' arrangement just like those you'd find on many other bikes, with the only difference being that a few inches away, closer down the swing arm toward the pivot point, there's an entirely separate 'airbag' that's part of an entirely non-related 'ride height levelling system'! :lecturef_smilie:

So don't be fooled, you don't have a rear 'air-shock' at all; and neither do you really have an 'air suspension system' - but you do have an entirely separate 'ride height levelling system' that works (IF it works, that is! ) to try and maintain the preset ride height under the variations in load imposed upon it by the addition of a pillion passenger &/or loading/unloading the panniers & trunk etc. :thumbup:

 

[Mikey]

Peter brings up some good points on that system on the RTL and any others that have the bag system. Some come from the factory with a pump system; some do not, and you have to fill it by hand. The system, if it all works right, means that you need air in that bag, and when you don't have air, you are to the mercy of a VERY poor shock, which, if like mine, really won't help very much at all! It dampens the travel some, but nowhere as much as it should. Some people I know replace the rear shock, disable the pump, lower the air pressure down in the bag to 10-20 psi, and call it a day; some take the bag right out of it. If the bag's holding air, I would leave it in there to use it like an overload on the occasion you may be loaded for a trip and want a little more lift. Trust me, they both work together, and if you lose the pressure in that bag your ride will go to crap. Would I put aftermarket shocks on? Yes, I would, did it on the front of mine and it was one of the best things I've done to the bike. And if in time the bag goes, the rear shock will be replaced with one also!

 

[troop]

I have Martin The Vlogger H&R springs installed on my 2022 RT STS, along with the BR Ultra sway bar. Super planted and stable. Haven't had any scrapes as of yet. My rear suspension is OEM. Quite satisfied.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Something I'd like to add in addition to Peter's great explanation of how the rear air assist system works...

The rear spring rate (on the shock itself) should be selected to reach a goal of the correct ride height with the rider (maybe both riders if your bike always has a passenger) and all permanently installed equipment present (rider sag) of 70-75% of total travel. At the same time having .75-1" left over up travel (pull up on the passenger handle to test) with no loads on the bike (static sag). A great indication that you have the correct or possibly the wrong rate with the rider sag set properly... Too much static sag would require a lighter spring rate while too little static sag would require a heavier rate, and obviously if the static is .75-1" you have the correct rate! The cool thing about the late model bikes with that auto level is the effective spring rate is dynamic depending on air pressure that the system adds to level the bike based on actual rear ride height. In my mind, you would set up proper sag with the right spring... Then the air bag will only really be used when weight is added to the luggage, or a passenger jumps on. Just like trucks and Jeeps... The Springs hold the truck up, and you add air only when a load is added the bed to level.

The downside and tricky part here is that as spring rate rises, you generally desire less compression/more rebound damping. Too little rebound damping and the bike will buck up after a "g-out" (Our bike does this out of the box without a load) and also have the feeling of a rough ride on the chop because of the shock's inability to damp the energy released after a compression event. Likewise, a higher spring rate would generally require less compression damping because the spring is harder to compress than a lighter one! What I do on the Jeeps is valve the shock in a digressive manner on both the rebound and compression to control the heavier spring rate, but "pop off" so that the suspension doesn't pack or feel rough on choppy bumps by employing something that is referred to as a "Flutter Stack". I have zero formal training on this because tuners don't share any info as we are the competition (enemy), but I'm finding out that I'm some kind of weirdo savant who is hyper focused on dialing what I consider to be "The perfect ride" and my clients are raving about my work. I must be on to something because it doesn't matter what I tune, it comes out pretty sick!

Ideally something like "Smartshox" or "E-Clik's" would be used to change the settings with "Live Valving" by how much air is in the bag and what the chassis is actually doing real time while also eliminating chassis roll! This pretty much negates the need for an upgraded sway bar - Sorry Ron, I still love your stuff! I actually have a system (E-Clik) that I use to offer custom tuning on the Jeeps, Toyota, and now Motorhomes that do this kind of thing. I work with a company named SDi that makes the E-Clik System and was hoping to collaborate with them on a Can Am Spyder offering, since now they are offering them for Polaris snow machines! Just like most of us in the business, I think they are struggling with employing enough skilled labor to take on any new projects! It's so frustrating to me because they and I have so many killer ideas, but I can't pull any of them off without more help...

With one less offering in the mix and now that some of us have been kicked in the gut by waiting months for shocks from M2, maybe I need to really re-evaluate this and come up with something. I was really hoping to get my wife's bike dialed in months ago, but she says it's tolerable and safe as is with Ron's bar for now. Just what I need - another possible business venture that I don't have time for????!!!! I just can't help it when I see a void and a chance to make people smile...

I've got a shock recommendation thread of my own going, but I just had to pop in here and add what I know!

 

[BamaJohn]

Just a note about your point #3 Bamajohn - your rear shock is NOT actually an airbag; nor is it even an 'air-assisted shock' or a shock & coil with any air involvement at all!! nojoke - It's a 'normal motorbike shock & coil spring' arrangement just like those you'd find on many other bikes, with the only difference being that a few inches away, closer down the swing arm toward the pivot point, there's an entirely separate 'airbag' that's part of an entirely non-related 'ride height levelling system'! :lecturef_smilie:

So don't be fooled, you don't have a rear 'air-shock' at all; and neither do you really have an 'air suspension system' - but you do have an entirely separate 'ride height levelling system' that works (IF it works, that is! ) to try and maintain the preset ride height under the variations in load imposed upon it by the addition of a pillion passenger &/or loading/unloading the panniers & trunk etc. :thumbup:

Mea Culpa. Of course you're correct. My post #3 is edited to remove the reference to the rear shock.

 

[Peteoz]

Mea Culpa. Of course you're correct. My post #3 is edited to remove the reference to the rear shock.

Hahaha! That explains why I was wondering how I missed your “rear shock is an airbag” comment when I read Peter’s post, John. :roflblack:

... and just a left field “aside”, JCWeatherman - be aware that your RT WILL ride a bit firmer after you replace your OEM rear/front shocks, which are designed to give a well cushioned ride rather than a “sure footed” ride. I thought it must just be me and the settings I chose, but even on the softest aftermarket Ikon shock setting, they were still more firm than OEM. The owner of Ikon confirmed that it was not due to my “fiddling”, but due to the good aftermarket shocks as opposed to the very soft OEM shocks which are designed to hook riders in on test rides. I experienced the same on my previous Wilbers shocks compared to OEM.

Pete

 

[Jetfixer]

I have the Elka Stage 2's in all 3 positions and love them! If you go with other shocks most vendors will want a lot of info about weight and type/skills of riding. That said, they will get you into the ballpark of ride settings. Don't be afraid to tweak their default settings until you get them where you're happy. I give them a 5.

 

[BamaJohn]

Hahaha! That explains why I was wondering how I missed your “rear shock is an airbag” comment when I read Peter’s post, John. :roflblack:

... and just a left field “aside”, JCWeatherman - be aware that your RT WILL ride a bit firmer after you replace your OEM rear/front shocks, which are designed to give a well cushioned ride rather than a “sure footed” ride. I thought it must just be me and the settings I chose, but even on the softest aftermarket Ikon shock setting, they were still more firm than OEM. The owner of Ikon confirmed that it was not due to my “fiddling”, but due to the good aftermarket shocks as opposed to the very soft OEM shocks which are designed to hook riders in on test rides. I experienced the same on my previous Wilbers shocks compared to OEM.

Pete

Laughing with you Pete... :thumbup:

 

[KX5062]

I am looking for some help and advice from my fellow RT owners who have replaced their original shocks with aftermarket shocks.

Note: I have Baja Ron links and sway bar on my '22 RTL.

So, before I drop a couple of thousand hard-earned dollars on suspension, here is what I would like to know:

1) If you have replaced your shocks, did you replace just the rear, just the fronts, or all three?
2) Did you replace the original shocks with Elka, M2, or some other brand?
3) On a scale of 0 - 5, with 0 being "I don't see any difference" and 5 being "My Spyder rides like the chariot of the gods," how much change do you notice in cornering, riding twisties, and stopping?

On my 2014 RT I did the Baja Ron sway bar and Elka Stage 2 shocks but left the rear alone. On my current 2020 RTL I have only done the Baja Ron sway bar. I feel the updates Can Am made the front suspension was good and made it handle adequately for a sedate rider (me).

On the 2014 I felt the changes made a dramatic difference for the better and was well worth the money.

On my current ride, now that it's got about 35k miles on it I'm thinking about upgrading the front shocks. However, I haven't fully decided yet.

HTH

 

[Mikey]

On my 2014 RT I did the Baja Ron sway bar and Elka Stage 2 shocks but left the rear alone. On my current 2020 RTL I have only done the Baja Ron sway bar. I feel the updates Can Am made the front suspension was good and made it handle adequately for a sedate rider (me).

On the 2014 I felt the changes made a dramatic difference for the better and was well worth the money.

On my current ride, now that it's got about 35k miles on it I'm thinking about upgrading the front shocks. However, I haven't fully decided yet.

HTH

A lot of folks have said that same thing, I hope some time in my life I will be able to get a good test ride of the new style. The bride hates it when I start eye balling a new bike, her pocketbook starts to shake! :roflblack:

 

[dvjohns]

I am looking for some help and advice from my fellow RT owners who have replaced their original shocks with aftermarket shocks.

Note: I have Baja Ron links and sway bar on my '22 RTL.

So, before I drop a couple of thousand hard-earned dollars on suspension, here is what I would like to know:

1) If you have replaced your shocks, did you replace just the rear, just the fronts, or all three?
2) Did you replace the original shocks with Elka, M2, or some other brand?
3) On a scale of 0 - 5, with 0 being "I don't see any difference" and 5 being "My Spyder rides like the chariot of the gods," how much change do you notice in cornering, riding twisties, and stopping?

Hello, I have a 23 RTL that I put 20k miles on in the first year. The first thing I did was put the BajaRon's ultimate sway bar on to improve the handling. I switched to Vredestein Tires at 7k (the Kenda's were worn out). I consider myself to be a "spirited" rider. I decided to look at some performance upgrades during this off season (winter in MN). After doing my research, I decided that I would look at front suspension and brakes.

I have just returned from Greeneville, TN, where I had BajaRon's shop replace the stock shocks with a set of JRI shocks that were developed by Ron in collaboration with JRI. They are full adjustable and rebuildable. I went with just the fronts. I rode a few roads with the stock shocks and then the same roads after the JRI's were installed. WOW! Just WOW! The ride, handling, stability, and even seemed easier to steer when dialled in. On your scale? 5 - Since you never gave the option for higher. The next day, I rode the Rattler 209 and the Tail of the Dragon. I pushed the limits of where I rode and felt far more comfortable and confident than I ever would with the stock shocks.