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Location of the valve stem... anyone ever move it?

Mazo EMS2

Active member
Just a brain fart here, but has anyone ever considered poking a different hole in the rear wheel, on the opposite side of the wheel, and opposite of the current valve stem, and putting a new valve stem in (a second one essentially)? It would make access to it much easier, and if located properly, should balance out. You'd of course have to leave the existing stem in place... Curious if anyone has done it? 🍿
 
Seems like that would be a lot of trouble to save a little trouble.

It would be easier to change the existing valve stem to one of the curved metal stems that they make for trucks. While you're at it, you might be able to turn it to the opposite side as well. Look in Pep Boys or Amazon, there's quite a large selection available: different curves, different lengths.

Easier still would be to get one of those kits that they sell for adding air to dually truck tires. You get the little 6" extension and screw it on to the existing valve stem. That part is easy even for my big uncoordinated fingers. Once it's on, you can easily measure the pressure and add air from outside the tire and sprocket area. Once you're done, unscrew the extension and put back the cap. For me, that is a lot easier than trying to fit my gauge down in there and squash the air hose onto the existing stem. And FAR easier in the sense that you don't have to remove the tire to make the change like your alternative and my first alternative.
 
MOVING THE VALVE STEM - REAR

Just a brain fart here, but has anyone ever considered poking a different hole in the rear wheel, on the opposite side of the wheel, and opposite of the current valve stem, and putting a new valve stem in (a second one essentially)? It would make access to it much easier, and if located properly, should balance out. You'd of course have to leave the existing stem in place... Curious if anyone has done it?

I did my first one (move the stem to disc side of wheel) back in 2010 for my 08 GS... then again on my 2011 RSS in 2013... and now my 2014 RT has the new valve location... I would only recommend doing this if you are changing the rear TIRE. All you do is drill the hole (2 inches in from the rim edge, this allows clearance for the stem and the tire machine - very important to do) The BEST metal valve is sold by KURVEYGIRL, 87 degree's angle, about $11.00 for two in a package. I've never had any kind of leakage, it makes it super easy to check the PSI in the tire or add air, and I don't balance my REAR wheels... the valve aligned with the tire DOT seems to be OK for the balance. Good luck... Mike
 
Not only is it on the wrong side - same side as the sprocket, my ingenious Tech mounted the rim so it is exactly behind one of the "spokes" to boot.

I guess that is why his "Career in Aviation" was cut short!
:D


I like Jays solution but not sure I would leave it on due to wheel balance. OK probably for airing up. Jay could you expound on this a bit?

Jack
 
As you can see from the photo, my valve stem is midway between two wheel spokes. A technician who would not install the sprocket so the sprocket and wheel spokes are aligned is not a technician but a mere assembler.

I do not leave the extension on the wheel; I use it only when I need to add air. Unlike Mike, I find I lose little air when disconnecting the extension. I always recheck the pressure after removing the extension and as a rule, when I've added air and checked it with the extension still on the valve stem, I leave a half pound or so more in so I'm on the money once the extension is off.

Valve Stem.jpg
 
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G'day Mike

Do you by chance have any photo's of your valve location? Would like to see if this can be done by someone down here.

Also, what did you do with the original valve stem?

Cheers and beers
Frank
 
VALVE MOVE PICS

G'day Mike

Do you by chance have any photo's of your valve location? Would like to see if this can be done by someone down here.

Also, what did you do with the original valve stem?

Cheers and beers
Frank

Sorry no. Go to KURVEYGIRL's web site and look at the 87 degree metal MTC valve... the install info has the hole size you need to drill. On the disc side of the wheel, there is a noticeable deep line cut into the rim. I measured 1.5 inches (38mm) in (towards the wheel center) and drilled the center of the hole there. I drilled a very small hole first, then did the rest from the outside of the wheel with the larger bit. As I stated earlier, this should be done because the Hydraulic wheel machine arms are damn large and could hit it if it were any closer to the wheel edge. Mine have not been hit. :bowdown: 👏 .....Mike 👍
 
As you can see from the photo, my valve stem is midway between two wheel spokes. A technician who would not install the sprocket so the sprocket and wheel spokes are aligned is not a technician but a mere assembler.

I do not leave the extension on the wheel; I use it only when I need to add air. Unlike Mike, I find I lose little air when disconnecting the extension. I always recheck the pressure after removing the extension and as a rule, when I've added air and checked it with the extension still on the valve stem, I leave a half pound or so more in so I'm on the money once the extension is off.


Jay is doing exactly what I suggested. Remove the extension when you're done. You don't lose any more air than you do when unscrewing the pump itself. Of course, it wouldn't work if the OEM stem was directly facing one of the spokes of the sprocket, but the dealer who sold the Spyder ought to fix that boneheaded mistake.

If you're going to change the tire anyway, changing the position of the valve stem or changing the angle of the valve stem makes sense. If not, it still seems like a lot of work to save a little work.
 
I work to stay limber enough that getting up and down of the floor is no bother. I routinely roll the bike so the valve stem is between 4 and 5 o'clock when looking at it from the left side. That gives me the best position to use my tire gauge as well as connect/disconnect the extension.
 
As you can see from the photo, my valve stem is midway between two wheel spokes. A technician who would not install the sprocket so the sprocket and wheel spokes are aligned is not a technician but a mere assembler.

I do not leave the extension on the wheel; I use it only when I need to add air. Unlike Mike, I find I lose little air when disconnecting the extension. I always recheck the pressure after removing the extension and as a rule, when I've added air and checked it with the extension still on the valve stem, I leave a half pound or so more in so I'm on the money once the extension is off.

Thanks Jay

jack
 
As you can see from the photo, my valve stem is midway between two wheel spokes. A technician who would not install the sprocket so the sprocket and wheel spokes are aligned is not a technician but a mere assembler.

I do not leave the extension on the wheel; I use it only when I need to add air. Unlike Mike, I find I lose little air when disconnecting the extension. I always recheck the pressure after removing the extension and as a rule, when I've added air and checked it with the extension still on the valve stem, I leave a half pound or so more in so I'm on the money once the extension is off.

Is that the stock valve stem? The reason I'm asking is that it's been a while since I really took a good look at it, and didn't realize, from all the talk about using angled valve stems for easier access, that the stock valve stem is already pointing straight out toward the sprocket and it seems a 90 degree valve stem would make harder to apply an air chuck, not easier.

Be patient with me folks. I've been away from SL for 3 years and it's been longer than that since I was wrenching on my bike at all, much less working on the rear wheel, probably 5 years ago. I'm preparing for a new tire install, so thought it might be time to put that 90 degree stem in place, but now I'm not so sure I should do that. Thanks.
 
Is that the stock valve stem? The reason I'm asking is that it's been a while since I really took a good look at it, and didn't realize, from all the talk about using angled valve stems for easier access, that the stock valve stem is already pointing straight out toward the sprocket and it seems a 90 degree valve stem would make harder to apply an air chuck, not easier.

Be patient with me folks. I've been away from SL for 3 years and it's been longer than that since I was wrenching on my bike at all, much less working on the rear wheel, probably 5 years ago. I'm preparing for a new tire install, so thought it might be time to put that 90 degree stem in place, but now I'm not so sure I should do that. Thanks.
This is a really old thread!
 
This is a really old thread!
Isn't it though? Something 2dogs said about this topic having been beaten to death (my words) on at least two other occasions caused me to go looking for the earlier threads, and he's right.

It's interesting though, to see that even after all these years, the topic is still relevant to many folks and the solutions and advice have remained pretty constant (although some have evolved and become more refined). And, BRP still hasn't seen fit to address it with a factory fix for newer bikes I believe. And, we've all gotten a little older and finding a solution to the problem becomes a little more urgent!

Also interesting to me is that I had to find these older threads using the search feature because the software didn't automatically suggest them.
 
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