location of jumper wire to connect rear wheel speed sensor to front wheel sensor

[Wildrice]

I had read somewhere on Spiderlovers.com that the front wheel speed sensors can be disconnected & jumped together with the rear wheel speed sensor to allow dyno testing. Does anyone remember where that post was or know the best location of the wires that need to be jumpered together?
Darrell

 

[pegasus1300]

Try this one http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...mmander-testing&highlight=dyno+testing+spyder
look at post #8

 

[Wildrice]

close but no cigar

Try this one http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...mmander-testing&highlight=dyno+testing+spyder
look at post #8

Sounds like a finger amputation to me. The one I was referring to is to remove the front wheel speed sensor's & connect them to the rear wheel speed sensor which would show as all wheels running at the same speed. With that setup any motorcycle dyno would work off the rear wheel with the front wheels stationary. The dynos only drawback is it lacks the headwind pressure force but I've seen lots of guy go home with trophies that tuned via dyno.
Darrell

 

[Peter Aawen]

Splicing the front wheels into the rear sensor has been mentioned elsewhere, & you'd think it shouldn't be too hard to do, but there doesn't seem to be a heap of talk around about anyone doing it?!

I have heard of someone running their spyder on a '4WD dyno' with the front rollers slaved to the driven rear drum, but I think that was a pretty hi-tech 'rolling road' designed to test & tune 4WD's, & there may not be too many of them around! There certainly aren't a heap of 4WD dyno's of any type here in Aus, & many of the 4WD Dyno's that are around here are pretty basic, & just don't have the slave/drive facility for the front rollers anyway, so it's apparently only a few specialist machines that can be configured in a way to make it possible to run a Spyder on them... :dontknow:

Still, the Dyno is really just one tool in the tuner's arsenal... a good tuner & a suitable track/section of road should be able to do just as well!

 

[fencepost]

A number of years ago I put my wife’s 2010 RT on a chassie Dyno after doing some mods with ram air. All I did was remove the speed sensor at the rear wheel. The issue was not the wheel, but the rear tire. It was difficult to strap down and maintain traction on the Dyno drum.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Things must've changed a fair bit since then fencepost, cos my 2013 RT drops into 'Limp Home' mode & won't rev past about 5,000 rpm pretty much straight away if the front wheels aren't turning at very close to the same speed as the rear once you get up past about 30mph - and the computer restricts revs similarly the second the rear wheel sensor is disconnected, & drops into limp home mode anyway if the front wheels register speed when the rear wheel doesn't!! :gaah:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I had read somewhere on Spiderlovers.com that the front wheel speed sensors can be disconnected & jumped together with the rear wheel speed sensor to allow dyno testing. Does anyone remember where that post was or know the best location of the wires that need to be jumpered together?
Darrell

I seriously doubt you could make it work that way. All three speed sensors connect into the Vehicle Control Module separately. Disconnect any one of them and you'll get a fault.

 

[Wildrice]

I seriously doubt you could make it work that way. All three speed sensors connect into the Vehicle Control Module separately. Disconnect any one of them and you'll get a fault.

Correct--BUT--if they were disconnected from the front & received feedback via a connection from the rear wheel the ECM won't know the difference. Actually the ECM input might be a good place to cut the wires & wire the 3 wheel input together. A connector plug on each would be easy to return the sensors to the original connection after the dyno test was completed.

The wideband would be the best IF the rider--tuner knew what they were doing. I see lots of mention of running too lean & that is one sure way to blow the engine. 13.8 sounds great for idle but full throttle should be down to 12 ish. In my opinion based on other motorcycles. I have lost 2 engines in a row doing the 1 mi land speed racing on an abandoned airstrip. Both times the heat melted the valve seat out of the head ---the reason that happened was I didn't back out a few degrees of timing in the upper rpm range. Lost the 1st at 193 mph & the 2nd at 196 mph going thru the 132' timing clocks at the end of the 1 mi run. I don't know my exact speed when the valve seat meltdown occurred but it probably was close to the end of the run. Between the rough spots on the runway & occassion bursts of cross wind I was never comfortable "aka Fear" at those speeds thus my move to 3 wheels with less top end speed.
Darrell

 

[Wildrice]

A number of years ago I put my wife’s 2010 RT on a chassie Dyno after doing some mods with ram air. All I did was remove the speed sensor at the rear wheel. The issue was not the wheel, but the rear tire. It was difficult to strap down and maintain traction on the Dyno drum.

What some of the high HP motorcycle tuners do is have another person sit behind the rider on the dyno. One shop had a 300 lb helper sit on the far rear behind the tuner on a bike with 500 rwhp using NOS. Tire pressure is also very important in the dyno, if I remember correctly traction on the dyno roller is reverse of traction on the road. I believe a higher tire pressure works best on the dyno.
Darrell

 

[jcthorne]

There is a toggle in BUDS to allow the dyno testing. No wiring required.

 

[Wildrice]

There is a toggle in BUDS to allow the dyno testing. No wiring required.

Now to find a BUDS on sale:clap: Big thanks for that tip.:bowdown:
Darrell
PS: I just saw the $price$ on the BUDS + license-YIKES--now to find a dealer repair shop with a dyno that already has BUDS. Or back to cable cutting-splicing with reconnect terminals.