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LOADING spyder in Toyhauler

Bad Grandpa

New member
Anyone solved issue of loading Spyder in these TALL, 30", toy haulers, and backing in only way it fits in my 20' toy hauler!
 
LOADING

Anyone solved issue of loading Spyder in these TALL, 30", toy haulers, and backing in only way it fits in my 20' toy hauler!
I have a flat bed toyt.pk-up .... I put my RT on the bed .... It is a 28" bed height ... I use 10ft. ramps .... my center ramp is covered with 26ga. galv. sheet metal that I have made into a " cheese grater " ie., I took a large nail and made dimples in the sheet metal ( a lot of them ) I flipped it over and screwed it to the ramp .... I have never lost traction even in pouring rain .... I can stop and then continue ..... I have never tried to go up in reverse ..... good luck, ...... Mike:thumbup:
 
Loading Spyder into a toyhauler

We have a toyhauler with a high deck and a steep ramp door. I installed a winch in the toyhauler and pull our Spyder RT in backwards. When the nose gets close to the ground I put ramps behind the front wheels. Once the nose clears the ground I finish loading. I found out that the rear wheel losses traction if I try to back in under engine power at slow speed. I also back in to allow room up front to stand my small Spyder trailer in the toyhauler. Gotta carry all the toys!
 
I've got two seven-foot ramps, that I place a bit more than halfway up my Outlaw's ramp. I back the bike up into the rig. The extra ramps pick the nose up before it touches down, and it still has the front-end elevated just enough to less the breakover angle.
No muss: no fuss! :thumbup:
 
Loading my RT in our RV

The additional ramps lift the front so it doesn’t rub when the back end starts up the ramp.
 

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I forget how high the floor was on our old Keystone Fuzion, but the only time I scraped the nose was one time on a weird sloping campsite. On level ground the RS made it in nose first every time just fine. We had an 8ft ramp door
 
Well I guess I got lucky.

My RT goes into the 36 foot Outlaw just fine. Forward.
IF.....it is on level ground AND I remember to take the anchor out of the middle track first.

If the end of the ramp ends up lower than level, then it will drag on the belly when trying to go in.
Same thing with leaving the middle anchor in place.
 
:shocked: Do you have an Outlaw 36T?
The Missus and I were thinking about trading for one of those (a 2012 model year rig,)
 

I cut a piece of 5/8 plywood in two and the cut it to length. 2 ft X 7 ft with two short pieces of 4 X 4 under the back of the ramp and use the 2 X 7 foot

plywood as an extended ramp and drive straight in.

Jack
 
:shocked: Do you have an Outlaw 36T?
The Missus and I were thinking about trading for one of those (a 2012 model year rig,)

It is an '07 3611. Don't know what the "11" stands for.
It is on a GM Workhorse chassis.

I like it well enough. So far it has had no more problems than the 10 year old Winnebago that I traded in.
I expected to have to put some money into it.
 
Use a portable wench.

I have a 2015 Forest River Vengeance V25. The only way my 2012 RTS will fit into the camper is backwards. In this camper the storage area is part of the living quarters. I have been backing the Spyder up the ramp into the camper. The issue I have is that once the rear tire hits the flooring in the camper the rear tire starts to spins. It would be almost impossible if the tire was wet or in most cases snady. I have purchased a portable 12v Marine Winch (https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-marine-electric-winch-61876.html). The winch is around $80 and is portable so it can be used in other places and comes with a detachable plate that has a cutout that can be placed over a ball of a hitch which servers as an attachment point for the winch.

I plan to use a tie down in the floor and use a large Carabiners, along with the detachable plate that comes with the winch to create an attachment point for the winch. I have a webbed towing strap that I will run through the passengers handles of the Spyder and connect it to the winch cable. This should pull the Spyder up the ramp and into place without doing any more damage to the flooring in the camper. Once the Spyder is loaded I can pack everything up and store it away. No ugly winch in the middle of the kitchen (Keep Wife happy). I saw this in an earlier post about toyhauler and they had great success with this method. It would also be a great help if one would have a problem with the Spyder and have to load the Spyder without engine power.
 
Given my previous comments about a Spyder being a really tight fit in that C........
AND the fact that I just realized that you do not now actually HAVE a Spyder to test the fit.......

I think if you can easily afford the upgrade you really should. You will be happier in the long run.
Unless the larger overall size will be a problem, of course.
 

I cut a piece of 5/8 plywood in two and the cut it to length. 2 ft X 7 ft with two short pieces of 4 X 4 under the back of the ramp and use the 2 X 7 foot

plywood as an extended ramp and drive straight in.

Jack
When you did this Jack, it changed the angle enough so you didn't catch when you backed out?
 
You can also use your leveling jacks to raise up the front of your RV. That'll also change that breakover angle. :thumbup:
I could actually pick the front wheels of the Outlaw off the ground: no hang-ups ever!
 
When you did this Jack, it changed the angle enough so you didn't catch when you backed out?


That is correct. Also very important to have the Toy Hauler disconnected and the hitch jack all the way up or nearly so. It drastically reduces the angle of

the loading ramp.

Jack
 
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