• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Little noise coming from the engine (?) around 3000~3500 rpm (but Spyder runs fine)

mehcoib

New member
Hi guys,

I have a little problem with my 2015 ST-S Spyder since almost a year now... It's not easy to describe but I'll give a try.

Sometimes I can hear a little noise coming from the engine (I guess), or close to the engine, when it revs at 3000-3500 rpm. Not lower. Maybe higher but then the regular noise of the engine is too loud so I can't tell.
It NEVER happens when the engine is COLD. It will NOT ALWAYS happen when the engine is HOT. When it happens, I can stop the Spyder and still hear it when reving the engine at 3000~3500 rpm in neutral gear.

No other issue, the Spyder runs fine, no acceleration or idling issue.
I've been told it might be the EVAP purge valve, but as I said the Spyder always runs fine, I guess it wouldn't if there was a problem with the EVAP system, right?

The sound I'm speaking of is hard to describe, it's not very loud, it's not knocking/whining/rattling, it's a 0.5s noise every 1-2s (as long as I keep 3000~3500 rpm). I can't find any comparaison to describe it more precisely.

What should I check first? Thanks for your help.
 
Just off the top:what Mileage & when was last service & or tune up? Yes E-VAP purge issues do have symptoms least mine did: with stalls(not sure bout audible sounds) :thumbup:good accurate rpm range to work with, have anyone can help hold throttle steady while you probe around & try narrow down area:dontknow: depending on last service if maybe a loose tupperware panel that vibrates at that range:dontknow:
 
Just off the top:what Mileage & when was last service & or tune up? Yes E-VAP purge issues do have symptoms least mine did: with stalls(not sure bout audible sounds) :thumbup:good accurate rpm range to work with, have anyone can help hold throttle steady while you probe around & try narrow down area:dontknow: depending on last service if maybe a loose tupperware panel that vibrates at that range:dontknow:

not a Tupperware issue, I removed all of them this winter to service my Spyder (brakes + spark plugs & wires + air filter + headlight bulbs + oil change, etc.). And the noise I'm talking about was here last summer.
 
I'll try to record a video when I'll hear the noise at idle. I did when I was driving but I can't hear the noise on the video because of the wind...
 
I eventually succeeded in recording that annoying little noise! It doesn't occur every time I use the Spyder that's why it took so long.

But last friday my wife and I went for a ride then after ~30-45 min it started. We stopped at a gas station and while my wife was keeping the engine running at ~3500 rpm I investigated and found out the noise was definitely coming from the LEFT side. I then removed the Tupperware and recorded that video : https://youtu.be/DWpq9xWg_zE

You may have to turn up the volume to hear the little noise.

I should have removed the black plastic as well but as I said I wasn't home so no screwdriver/wrench, etc.

I would say it comes from the filters area.

So, what you think?
 
I hear like a radial light scraping noise. Is that what you mean?

Not sure to understand what you mean...

The (little) noise I'm talking about occurs every second or so (I understand it can be hard to hear because of the engine noise). My wife said: tell them it's doing 'ftou... ftou... ftou...'
Well, I'm not sure it is really helping that's why I posted the video ;)
 
Hello from Germany,

i have the same noise since more than 3 years..
Its coming from the left side and i guess it is the valve from the SE-modul..

Don`t worry about

Greetings from Germany
 
thanks. Is it what you're talking about?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoNUhai5Afb7gv8cl9ygPvArZB6ovQ?e=upQG3o

Do you think I can open it in order to check it?

Not likely!! :shocked:

If it's a solenoid (as it certainly appears to be ;) ) then unless you really know what you're doing, opening it will most likely destroy it - and while it's functioning, even if it's making a noise, as many do for a loooong time, it really shouldn't be a problem. :lecturef_smilie:
 
Not likely!! :shocked:

If it's a solenoid (as it certainly appears to be ;) ) then unless you really know what you're doing, opening it will most likely destroy it - and while it's functioning, even if it's making a noise, as many do for a loooong time, it really shouldn't be a problem. :lecturef_smilie:

Just found that in my shop manual : https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoNUhai5Afb7gv8gdUv1sbK4jW-bww?e=KqMHnS

Looks like this is some cleaning that we can do! I will give a try this week...
 
New to Spyders, but is even a good idea to rev the engine in neutral at that high RPM?

While I can't remember exactly what the limit is pontbra, there is already an ECU limit set to restrict over-revving the engine in neutral. :thumbup: . But IIRC, I think it's pretty high, maybe 6,000 rpm, so 3,500 rpm isn't really all that high and shouldn't be an issue (besides, if you aren't in neutral & actually have a gear selected, then the SE5's Centrifugal Clutch is really only just past thinking about fully engaging!! :rolleyes: ) You should remember that these V-Twin motors are high-revvers too - in stock trim/general use, they rev to about 8,000 rpm; but in other applications/other bikes/after an ECU Upgrade, that operational red-line limit is frequently safely set to 9,000 rpm or even higher, and that's still within Rotax's designed operational/reliability parameters for the engine, so 3,500 is effectively just a little above idle :ohyea:

mehcoib, be aware that the page you linked doesn't actually refer to opening the solenoids themselves, it's only refering to cleaning the protruding tips of the solenoids that engage with the valve body, and it even says that if you should check the solenoids & gaskets for damage & replace if necessary; plus there's that Note: Solenoids are available as single parts, replace the complete solenoid valve set only if necessary. ;)

Besides, I reckon you might be over-thinking this - if it's not the whine as per Snowbelt Spyder's linked TST, then those solenoids are little electro-magnetic actuators that click & clack when & as they function in the normal course of events, and they're designed to do that click/clack thing in order to operate things like that valve body.... in fact, in most cases, a quiet solenoid that doesn't click/clack during its expected operation is probably a failed solenoid! :shocked: So unless you are having shifting issues &/or your noise is somehow associated with that whine described in the TST, then you may well be worrying about nothing, or at least something that's perfectly normal... :dontknow: . Is the noise really that obtrusive?? Are you having any gear selection issues? Is this a normal maintenance item or a regularly occurring problem? If not, then why buy trouble before you actually have any??? Just Sayin' :rolleyes:

Over to you :cheers:
 
This is an interesting noise but may not be a problem. What I would do would be to get a mechanics stethoscope (maybe 5$)and start touching different parts until you find the source of the noise. As a former transmission rebuilder I have worked on thousands of those type solenoids. Yes they can make noises, click or clack would be heard from a simple on/off solenoid, a pulse width modulated solenoid would make a buzzing noise as it attempts to regulate pressure in a specific part.
These noises would be normal up to a point. The solenoids I have seen are very durable and if they fail do not generate metal dust or fragments. They can fail electrically and cause loss of a gear or they can ingest metal dust from the failure of another part. That type of failure can cause the slow death of the solenoid with possible erratic behavior. Find the noise, drain your oil thru a strong clean paper towel, then cut your filter open and inspect for metal, save all the evidence and take to a dealer to see what their mechanic thinks. If it's the solenoids that are noisy, you won't fix them by cleaning them. I'm very interested in what you find.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top